Kalimera – Greek Islands

You could travel a lot of just the occasional trip and your baggage will always be there when you arrive at that carousel. You think fantastic and carry on…

But what if someone on a ferry picked up your bag and you picked up theirs. So here is my story of that scenario. Ferries in Italy and here in Greece you put them in a holding area as there can be several stops. You are well away from the area and you have no idea what can and will happen to your bag. In Italy we caught the ferry back from Salina to Palermo no big deal get on stuff your bags in the area go sit down below. Getting off the ferry there is no order just chaos and get in, get your bag with out any kind of decorum. You can even get a hip and shouldered by the old and frail in a battle to get to that bag. So I am thinking in this moment things got confused. We got off, jumped into a taxi to go and pick up our hire car for the next ten days in Sciliy. So Tony just put it in the car and left it there as we didn’t need what those bags contained. So as the story goes we return hire car go to check in for flight to Athens. I am thinking, we are going to be overweight for sure. That is when that thought of, this isn’t my bag, this bag only weighs like 4kgs mine I remembered weighing something like 10 kgs and it was unlocked. So we keep checking in and have these thoughts of did the car get burgled but Tonys bag was fine so not plausible senario. When we arrived at Athens I tried to open the bag. I tried my combination but no. Tried obvious combo three 000 bingo, not mine. Saddness was seeping in as that bag had some things I need and have collected on the way. First thing email ferry company in Palermo. Slight relief has washed over me, my bag was there. Next thing how to get it to where we are going. Ok, so here we are 15 days after that moment. I still don’t have my bag. I couriered the other bag back to the lad that owned the other bag I had. Lucky he left his email address he lived in a town near Venice. Lucky lad. Just getting my bag picked up was a communication nightmare to say the least from the Palermo ticket office at the Porto in Palermo. I have been tracking my bag from Palermo. It went to Palmanova Italy then Sofia Bulgaria then Thealassio Greece now its on a boat from Naxos but it has been 3 days. The funny thing is when I put the order in with this company to do this they said 4 days. MMMMM…….. Will keep you posted.

We are not really a fans of Athens We find it grubby and just plain ugly city. We have been before and seen the Acropolis and the Plaka area that surrounds it. This time we stayed at the port Piierus as our ferry leaves early. Off to do some island hopping for the next month. First stop is Paros

Paros we came to about 6 years ago. We had a few days here and have some fond memories. We are staying at the Agronauta hotel right next to the port and the square. Really nice hotel. We are taken to our suite which was a few hundred metres up from the main hotel. It was really nice. Little balcony over looking the street. Beautifully decorated too. It was perfect for the next 4 days.

We hired a car, a little tiny smart car they are like a toy cars, so tiny. Drove around the island. Not many roads, we did all the coast roads. It was an automatic so I thought I would have a drive as Tony has been doing all the driving and he does a great job. Boy, can that man scream like a girl. Watch out your too close, you nearly side swiped that car and pinnacle of his hysteria was when I pulled out of side road and started driving on the wrong side of the road. Only noticed when a truck was coming towards us. So that was the end of my driving career . Such a short lived moment.

We found some beautiful beaches not the ones that are organised as the greeks would say. The water is so beautiful to swim in so clear and blue that just invites you in.

We ate at wonderful restaurants. One we ate in 6 years ago, we searched it out. But sadly the amazing man had sold it. We ate there anyway, it was ok. Not like when he was the host with all these photos of famous people that had eaten at his restaurant. We also lucked upon a restaurant that was on a balcony overlooking the white washed buildings and the copious shops below. It was French it was another yum meal. At night the streets are alive with the masses of people trawling the shops of tourist trinkets and clothing stores are all open to the wee late hours. It is so bright.too Shopping after a few drinks can result in random purchases. Not that I would do such a thing.Never, ever ……

We also went across to anti- Paros on the ferry. What a beautiful little island with so many gorgeous houses with amazing pools and sort after out looks. We liked it over there quiet and not to full on with the tourists. We aren’t tourist we are travellers. There is difference I am sure there is

A definition of a traveller:

A person who is travelling or who often travels. A nomadic person. A person who hold new age values with an unconventional lifestyle.

A definition of a tourist:

A person who travelling or visiting a place for pleasure

So I think we are somewhere in-between these definitions for this year at least and maybe beyond. We are loving this lifestyle of one continuous year of summer.

Off the track there a bit. But lets get back on track and will describe to you were I am sitting at this very moment trying to re-call the last weeks. The sky is a heavenly blue the air is warm and dry. The landscape is dry and rocky with a little church that is so white always perched on top of a hill. Boats of the wealthy parked in the bay. The sounds of the young at heart jumping off the cliff, with the screams of joy. The sound of bat ball game which is a very popular with everyone on the beach. The passing parade in front me of tanned bodies, young and old. The smell of the taverna above us cooking food that makes me hungry and I don’t even eat meat but the smell of a bbq can make that tummy rumble. So not a bad spot I wish you were here with me having that end of day glass of wine. Must be 6pm. life is wonderful

Next island is Naxos.

Naxos what can we say. First we are staying at the Plaka. A very nice sandy beach which has a view of the island of Paros. So it took maybe 45mins to get here by ferry. Before I continue I might have a little whinge about ferry terminals or the port area. I can’t understand why this isn’t better. The amount of people that are coming and going from these places is just extraordinary. They are filthy not enough shelter from the sun. No-where to sit waiting cause sometimes those ferries aren’t on time. Confusion on what area you should be in as there are several ferry companies. The signs are tiny or just hand written. Usually someone will be yelling out ferry boat such and such to this spot, go there. Why isn’t there some sort of digital board with this information, just crazy. The police officer with that dam whistle getting the cars to just get off and get out of the port area. People unloading like sheep off a boat.

Naxos is the largest in the Cycladic island group. Staying at Naxian on the beach. Arriving at this place was the most warmest welcome we have ever received the front of house lady was so lovely and her side kick he was amazing too. Kostos, he was from the Ionian Island. What a beautiful group of islands definitely on the list for our next visit .

The hotel has its own beach with organised day bed areas with a smattering of the other places that have umbrellas that you hire with a beach lounge. At least we didn’t have to pay extra it came with the room and the front row bam, thank you very much. The beach was beautiful to walk along sandy but busy with people getting that holiday tan. What we did find intriguing is that ones who love the all over tan with no bather marks suntan next to ones with bathers on their bits. No-one bats an eye lid. Sometimes I don’t need to see some of those bits all tanned. The jury is out on that one. Should the all over tanners come together in their own space or should they just be with the others?

We hired a car for a couple of days. It’s quite a big island with little villages in the middle on the bays with the tavernas feeding those hungry holiday tanners. As its hungry work tanning. Getting that shade of brown that makes your teeth seem so white.

We came across a lovely town that had some tavernas right on the waters edge. Apollonas, right at the very tip of the island. Greeks can do vegetables that are so tasty and the stuffed tomatoes and capsicum with rice and herbs always so very tasty with the greek salad of course . Fresh fish is nice but its very expensive, we had it a few times. I think the Mediterranean is pretty much fished out.

On our way back as it’s at least an hour drive we stopped at a bay which looked pretty and inviting, Petrino. Had the taverna right on the foreshore and few people swimming. Tony went for a walk along the beach while I read. There was this house right on the waters edge the white with blue doors and windows the bougainvillea cascading with its beautiful pink bracks. No-one home all locked up but what does he spy growing in the vegetable garden a marijuana crop and I mean not just a few plants. So opportunity arises do I take a little bud. Of course I do, they won’t notice. Ohhhh, yes they do, some bloke was tending to his crop and spied Tony bending down to take a sample. Tony spied him and left quick smart and hi tailed it back to where I was to tell the tale. Need to be quicker Tony……

We walked around the Chora every island has a Chora (main town) . Very touristy, not that interesting at all. We liked Naxos, fantastic island and you can find a beach that doesn’t have the hoards of people on them. We did find this great taverna next door to were we are staying. So if you go out into the kitchen area they have the traditional food stuffed vegetables stuffed squid all these dishes and that is just a few. Snails if you so desire. Just look amazing you just select from there. I tell ya, its the yummiest food it comes to you so quickly half litre of house wine in your little jug with your tiny glasses so it looks like you aren’t drinking to much, dinner is perfect at a very reasonable price too. Time to leave.

Next island to visit is Santorini.

We have been to Santorini before some 6 years ago. When we came then it didn’t feel as busy as it does now. I mean it is amazing coming in on the ferry and looking up and seeing those white building precariously perched on the edge . You wonder how in the hell is all that just staying there. It’s a sight to behold.

This time we are saying in Oia in a little cave room down many steps and narrow paths. You are surrounded by lots of little places some with their own little plunge pools. That wasn’t us. (sad face emoji insert here) But really nice though. The owners son would carry our heavy bags down many steps that are very steep and quite tricky to navigate. It had all the creature comforts well except for the caravan size tiny weeny bed. But it had air conditioning that was fantastic, as it is really hot.

The most intriguing event that happens everyday is sunset. Sunset happens everyday no matter where you are in the wonderful world and people do gather for an end of day drink and watch that fiery ball sink into the sea or behind a mountain sometimes you are left with the most beautiful after glow. It’s one of natures beauties.. In Oia it seemed like a crazy part of the day the people in the narrow streets shoulder to shoulder to find a perch early to watch the sun sink into the sea. Some people sit there for up the 2 hours before hand, just waiting as they think they have snagged the best spot and not giving it up for anyone. With a drink in hand and the camera poised .

One night we had dinner at this roof top restaurant had the best view it was beautiful. I must say. The other night we just sat outside our little cave room had some Prosecco and snapped the photos. That night we chatted to a family from Bulgaria staying in the room next to us. It was a lot of broken English but a really lovely family with this gorgeous little girl named Christina she was 3 and so cute. She actually spoke some English from being in a day care place in the UK.

We also caught the public bus to Thira to have a look around not that great, glad to leave really. Santorini we don’t think we will come back. It was awesome and great to experience again but your expensive to many tourists. Especially when you see 3 cruise boats parked in the bay all those people are going coming up its mayhem.

On to Folegrandros.

Just a short 45 mins ferry ride to Folegrandros pulling up to the port I think this is going to be awesome. Small port not many buildings. Our kind of place. We are picked up taken to Agali bay where you find Blue Sand Hotel and Suites. Perched up on the cliff over looking the bay it’s like we have arrived in heaven. We have small tavernas around us the smells of cooking is hard to resist. The water is so blue and heavenly. Boats of all sizes come in and out of the bay.

You can walk maybe 20 mins to another bay and again 3-4 tavernas and a shade for sitting under. The Greeks have this eating at the beach thing really sorted. Love it. We are here for 6 glorious nights here. BTW we are in the most heavenly room is so beautiful and has this lovely outdoor space. Nothing to want for.

We did hire a car and do a lap of the island only a few roads to be found. Did find a beautiful bay, an old fishing village. Went into Chora had a wander, many restaurants and little shops. But we love this little taverna just in front of our room the whole family are in there cooking. Mother, father, brother, daughter and yaya. Again in the kitchen you go in there you can see everyone working so hard and there is all this food cooked and ready to be served. We have been eating all vegetarian because its just so tasty it makes me hungry writing about this. The owners are just so lovely. Will miss there yummy food and genuine hospitality.

So far Folegrandros has been our favourite island. On to the next island, Milos.

We are very excited as we are meeting friends from Perth and Adelaide. This will be some fun times. Our first friend to arrive is Kathie from Perth. It was so nice to see her after planning this little get together last year when it was just a thought.. We have hired a house and a room in the Plaka the main town in Milos which over looks a church perched on the edge of the cliff and a small farm. Watching the owner come each day and feed his chickens and look after his property is always a joy to watch.

This time we have hired a Panda Fiat this will be tight getting all 5 of us in this tiny clown car. The next day Rob & Marjorie are arriving by ferry. So we have dinner at the port waiting and waiting for this ferry to arrive it was very late. Then finally did. They didn’t get off feeling green which we were surprised as the sea was very rough. So here we are friends who have known each other for some 40 years on a greek island on the other side of the world.

Lets go explore Milos and eat some yummy food talk some shit and generally have a great time. We ate one night in a village about 10 mins walk from the Plaka to a restaurant that had the best homemade traditional greek food. Everyones meal was amazing and the starters were so tasty. That jug of house wine just hitting the right spot.

Most days we would head out in Panda, boys in front and girls in the back rotating in between who is sitting in the middle like siblings would. In search of a place for lunch and a beach to have a swim at. How good is life when all you need to worry about is where to eat and where to swim.

One day we headed over to the other side of the harbour we could see buildings from our verandah. So lets go and check it out. We had a swim and then kept driving along the narrow edge of the cliff and then along a narrow edge were the sea was lapping at our tyres. So glad we had the panda as I don’t think we would have fitted. Wouldn’t you know it, a taverna is perched on the edge of the water in the middle of completely nowhere . We had a great lunch. As we sat there enjoying our delish lunch many others arrived to this little treasure too. But just for a minute we felt that we were the only ones that had found this little secret.

Also one day we joined a boat called Eleni and 25 other punters on a day cruise around the island. Going out was ok ,bit rock n roll just keep looking at the horizon all will be fine kept telling ourselves and it was. We pulled up into bays jumped overboard for a swim got back on and went to another cove were many boats had pulled up and not just the tourist ones. The rich and flithy rich had pulled up too Those boats or small ships are just amazing. It was lovely swimming through the caves and spending some time there, having lunch which was tasty. We motored to our end of tour destination but not before the waves seem to cascade all over us as we were plowing through the sea. Well, that’s what you get if you sit up front silly Australians. It was a lot of fun the crew and the bossy lady who was a wealth of information made the day run like clock work. It was a great day out exploring the perimeter of Milos the not so windy side. Those northerly winds are so strong over the summer period in Greek Islands.

We had such a great time with our friends so wonderful to see the familiar. As Rob and Marj carry on with their 3 month European vacation. Kathie is coming with us to Mykonos

Before we leave Milos I have to put to bed the story of my suitcase. Well finally after 21 days of travelling by it self on it own adventure around Europe we are finally back together again. I have had words with samsonite (sam) the suitcase not to go off with strangers ever again. Stay by your big sister Osprey. Samonsite(Sam) is very quiet why she was in Bulgaria and why did she island hopped on her own to other destinations that weren’t on the itinerary. Glad we all together again. Thats the main thing.

Off we go to Mykonos.

I am dubious about going here I have read so many things about this island that we didn’t really want to go. Its expensive for one. For Kathie it was on her list, so lets go. We went 6 years ago. Then it seemed fine where we stayed was so gorgeous the main Chora wasn’t cray, cray. As it is now.

Lets start with the place we staying its not were it is according to the directions we are given. We found it adventurely, it has a great view. You couldn’t put that against it. A little not like the photos a little worst for wear. It is what it is.

Mykonos is the windy rock of an island. We watched at least 4 cruise boats turn up each day and leave in the evening if each has 4 thousand people on them that is a huge influx of people each day. We stayed for 5 nights so that’s 20 cruise boats from different companies. Holly Molly.

We hired a car and went out to beaches in search of a shady beach which is near impossible. We dropped into one beach as Kathie was super keen on going to this shop in search of a dress she saw on instagram. We pulled up, that will be 20euro to park your car in the dust. Nope, no-way. So drove out and parked it in the free park and walked in. Well, it was beautiful the hostesses in their gorgeous dresses the security guards giving us the sideways look. The ladies arriving in beautiful kaftans that float past carrying these beautiful christian Dior tote bags. Mind you those tote bags cost 2,300euro. Kathie and I did the research. That is one crazy expensive tote bag to put your towel in. On the beach side the restaurant it was so luxe with tables and beds umbrellas all begging you to laze upon. Or swan around in the restaurant. We didn’t even ask how much. Kinda didn’t want to know. I don’t think the people coming into this place ask the price they just do and enjoy themselves and the other wealthy ones and compare tote bags and kaftans while drinking Prosecco. Certainly not us.

We did find a beach were you could watch the windsurfers and kite boarders the vibe was so different it was hard to compare. Apples to Caviar. We found another beach that had trees well the only beach on this rock. . One night we went down the hill and mind you it is very steep to the Chora from the house we had hired. Oh my, the buffed up boys with their partners it was overwhelming. They are all so good looking it was amazing to sit in a restaurant and just look at the passing parade. It was shoulder to shoulder or muscle to muscle. You kinda didn’t look at the ladies in their pretty summer dresses it was the boys that caught our attention. Enough about that. We are wondering what draws the buff and beautiful boys here?? Something that is only known to them.

We had a lovely time wondering and driving around the island. It was just so expensive. For example just the normal everyday greek salad a stable in every meal was from 16euro we have been buying it for around 4 euro so eating out was expensive and nothing very special. Unless you ate in some fancy restaurant were you might have to sell your house to eat in. It was an experience and it has been ticketed off the list.

As we farewell Kathie as she heads back to winter in Perth her bag a little heavier with some purchases that have a story to tell.

We are heading to our last and final greek island Koufonisia an island that is next to Naxos so we have been in the Cycladic group and done a full circle.

Koufonisia is only 3.5kms long so tiny in comparison to the others we have stayed. When we pulled up in ferry it was like breathing in fresh air. Our kind of vibe. Small little village with some tavernas and fish restaurants. We are staying in a windmill. It’s so cute and views are to die for right on the waters edge. The sound of the waves lapping makes for great sleeping. Sunset is just there. Well, sunset from our patio was awesome in Mykonos too.

We have hired bikes as that is the only way to get around the island with its very few roads. We had lunch the first day we arrived in a taverna and after nearly a whole month this was the first time that they have had vegetarian moussaka was on the menu I just had to have that. I can report it was sensational. Also just down on the waters edge a few steps from our windmill is this fresh seafood restaurant. Only open in the evening. While we sit on the edge of the harbour on little blue chairs and table there seems to be huge schools of fish. We feed them our bread and the water comes alive. So there is some fish in the Mediterranean after all. We had dinner there last night lashed out and had lobster oh my, it was so good. Cooked on the charcoal very simply with olive oil and lemon with of course the greek salad and the jug of wine. Really not over greek salad yet it’s just so tasty every time. We will miss it.

apochairetismos (farewell) The Greek Islands