It was sad to leave the Greek Islands we only had just got into the rhythm of the greeting,’ Kalimera’ we had pretty much nailed it too. It’s always the way, isn’t it and then it’s time to leave for another country and another cuisine and another language.
Hola San Sebastian, We are staying a little out of San Sebastian, Hondarribia, Calle de Axular just for one night. It happened to be red beret night of the bands in huge numbers drumming so very loudly to a tune with little piccolo’s. Everyone was cheering them on and it was like the battle of the bands. One group went one way the other went the other. It went on for hours to very late not sure the reasoning but it made for a mighty street parade and the bars where full and sprawling out into the streets. It was a warm evening too. We had booked into a one star place not sure why it was given such a low rating the room was prefect the breakfast was tasty and fresh, not expensive either. We are told its because they don’t have a lift or air conditioning. Bah… don’t need those things. Winner for us we thought.
We are driving down, to Boal Asturias to stay out at Hotel Rural Palacio de Prelo. It was certainly in the country side. So very green and misty and sunny, cows and cows and did I mention cows. It is all very pretty. Tony has hired an Audi A5 what a car to zoom along those highways doing 150kms or more, sits on the road so well. It’s made to drive that fast, even faster when you flatten it just a touch more. We chose this destination as we are keen to go to cathedral beach and its kinda close. We haven’t really stayed in the country much, always along the coast line.
Might have a quick chat about the place we stayed. Very well renovated by this couple Antonio and Elyse. Elyse stayed in the kitchen didn’t see her other than when she was scattering around the place or cooking in the kitchen. Antonio, I read on a review had a funny little habit, well, some might call it a funny habit of perving at your boobs. So I was watching his eyes constantly to see where they might land. He was having a good old perve at my boobs too. Well I though good luck with that you old perve. He seemed nice enough but maybe he has been living in this rural situation to long and got tired at looking at his own wife boobs who knows. Didn’t bother me it was just he needed to refine his perve a little better if this was his thing. Elyse cooked us a lovely dinner and breakfast. It was very peaceful with Mr Antonio (aka Mr Pervy) at his lovely retreat.
Mr Pervy gave us directions to get to Cathedral Beach which was around 40 mins from his Rural retreat. You need to get there around 2 hours before low tide and you also have around 2 hours after low tide to get down onto the beach and view those arches. It was a cold day of sorts had to get the puffer out again, its been a while. There are many cars and camper vans parked along the coast all waiting for the time to get down on the beach and snap that photo. We waited for maybe an hour then headed down. Btw, you have register your visit too. What a fricken pain in the ass. It doesn’t cost anything but they are trying to keep the numbers to around 4,500 per day. Holly Molly that’s a lot of people. So we did, online of course. Headed down to the waters edge. The Atlantic sea is so very cold compared to the Mediterranean. We waited on the beach for another hour. Edging closer and closer to areas waiting and waiting for that water to sub side out to sea. We want the photo with out the hoards of people, no photo bombers in our shot, no way hoe-zay. Standing in the freezing water being a few metres in front of the people sneaking around the corners, wading up to our crouches just about. Lucky shorts clothed our legs. We did it, got in front got the photo we were looking for and we are gone faster than the tide can retreat. Our toes are so numb. Tick, done we are off to Nazare in Portugal maybe a 5-6 hour drive from Cathedral beach.
Tony is up for it, he is in his element in the Audi. Driving at break neck speeds 0f 160kms/h. or more. So many toll booths going into Portugal I think the whole trip down we pasted through 15 toll booths each wanting something from us for the pleasure of driving on their freeways which I must say are good roads. So at least they are using the money to maintain the roads. We arrived at Nazare the seaside town that is home to the Nazare huge wave Praia do norte that smashes in during the winter time. So maybe November or even later those waves just pump in, some of them are 80ft. We just wanted to see exactly where this is. Nazare is a very busy holiday town. We are staying in a small hotel called 7 Skirts. Weird name I know. But what a lovely hotel or guest house the rooms are small but nice. Only thing I thought was really strange is the separation wall between the bathroom and the rest of the small room its just wooden slats so if one of us does a smelly poo, not so good. Clearly that isn’t me, girls don’t do things like that, everyone knows we are ladies with non smelling poo, design fault here.
Breakfast was sensational all laid out on the table it so good, the best we have had so far. The plates cups were lovely, I wanted to take them all home. We have a couple of nights here and first thing and a high priority is bike riding clothes. We threw the old ones out from the trip earlier in the year. Not lugging them around taking up valuable packing space in my medium size bag. It proved to more difficult than you can imagine. 5 hours later after going here and there to find a store. Mission accomplished we have the gear to pad the bottom and protect the head and look half like a lycra clad cyclist.
Nazare the actual point was interesting to see. A great little museum with the surfers boards and equipment, to see actually what was used to surf that 80ft monster was very interesting and frightening that they used such small boards. The little red light house where the iconic photo is taken. Mission done we have seen, we have purchased its time for dinner. We found this little restaurant in the back street by accident. Family run with baby and all in the restaurant. The owner he was brilliant he made the night so funny and his food was of course fresh and tasty. He had us laughing and entertaining his baby while his wife was running around in the kitchen. It was a great night to say goodbye to Portugal. it was short but sweet off to Leon now, that’s a big drive about 6-7 hours straight through the guts this time.
Driving, driving, so much driving today. But the Audi felt like it was was scimming over the road. Went to wrong town to drop off the car just a little blimp over the 6 hours we drove. But I could feel Tony was so over driving he just needed to vacate that car and get the hell out of there to the hotel. Getting a little testy here.
In Leon we are joining a group of like minded cyclists to cycle from Leon to Santiago de Compostela 333km. Mad I know, cause we have done no training what so ever, this is going to hurt big time. Well at least we have the padding on our butts that is most important.
We met our group of 16 enthusiastic riders So we have Heidi from Denmark ( she is the queen of the hill without a doubt) Susanah from UK she can ride like the wind. Duncan & Frances those guys get the gold medal for amazingness Duncan has glaucoma and his vision was just 20 metres in front so he would just watch tyres and especially Frances. Mike he was 70 he was so powerful up those hills with those skinny legs. Micheal 2 he was the leader of the pack and the champion of all champions of getting those stamps in that passport book, more on that later. Connie and Anna from Chicago, USA those ladies could ride with so much strength and fitness. Put us to shame. We had Russell from New Hampshire USA at 73 that man had some determination and fitness he may of been last most days but he got the job done. Michelle a lady from the UK she hadn’t riden a bike with gears for years but she had mastered them all and always with this huge backpack on her back she wasn’t a turtle she was the hare. Then we have Robin a very tall man with great riding skills and strength on those ascents. Kirsty and Walter from Scotland what a great Scottish couple they are so super fit too. Barbara is our last rider she wins the medal for the bravest of them all, she came off on a decent. Tony & I came around a corner up in the mountains on a freezing day and there she was sprawled across the road.. We thought she broke something. We all gave her our jackets to keep her warm. Alfonso called the ambulance she was so lucky to come away with some minor scratches and bruises on her face and body the scenario could have been so much worse. Barbara got back on the bike the next day ,what a woman. Then us, slightly on the unfit side as I said no training nothing zipo. Just walking but we have been lazing in the greek islands for a month no training there. Oh, well here we go.Let the pain begin.
We cycle to Astorga first town no big deal bit on the warm side though around 58kms but it is slightly on the up side, well sometimes. Over gravel surfaces and tarmac roads. We are totally enthusiastic about it all, riding in front saying we can do this, well, I tell ya that didn’t last all of the week. I think we can only focus on the moments that caused so much pain. In this recollection. Two days we went up, one day over 13kms up and that was the day I think day it was really cold and we had head winds all the way it was torturous. The day poor Barbara fell. We would cycle from 9.30 till about 5pm with a break for lunch. There is no support team setting up water stops with snacks this is a pilgrims trail we need to suffer a little to feel like a Pilgrim. We did have Nacho he was the man he would fix the bikes and had water on hand which is very much appreciated by the group. As we need those brakes to be working really well with all those ups we had some massive down hills with some breakneck speeds reached sometimes, Tony I am talking about you. That man loves to speed down them hill with no fear.
One day we stayed in this lovely rural hotel it was a nice comfy hotel, dinner was very tasty wine was good. But rural hotel was at the bottom of the valley we had to go up first thing in the morning. An ascent of 650m over 8kms some of those parts was eye wateringly testing on my stamina and can do attitude. Most of the group zoomed up there in under an hour Tony did it in 1hr 15min. I did it in 2 hours. It was bloody hard lot’s of walking with riding mixed in there. Thank goodness really, no-one was around because some potty mouth words coming out of my mouth and it wasn’t very lady like at all. No sireee…. Over the 6 days of riding we always had an up and some fabulous downs. The accommodation was fine. Dinner was tasty and wine was consumed like water. Alfonso was great guide he had a busy time trying keep the group happy and together, 16 riders on your own is a lot to ask. I haven’t really talked about Tony as he rides with the pack so I wouldn’t really see him. I would see him when he had been waiting for some time for me to turn up at the coffee stop or at corner to point me and the others in the right direction. One day he was the last man to keep the group together don’t lose anyone person. But generally he sits up front, he is a pack man.
These passports. In Leon we went to this monastery to get our pilgrims passport book for a few Euro. Then along the way we collect stamps at every place we stop for coffee or lunch or where we have stayed that night. Still to this day I am not sure of the significance of the whole collecting stamp thing is . We did as all the others did, following like sheep. The walkers did also,I watched them tease that passport out of its special sleeve, it was a treasured item. .Then when you reach Santiago your passport is taken to the office of stamps and certificates and you are given a fancy certificate and a normal certificate to say you have completed the camino. You actually only have to walk 100kms or ride 200kms to get a certificate.So 333kms passed all the rules of certificate rules. That night we had a big celebration dinner at the end it was a great experience but I am glad its done and a huge tick off that list of achievements. On the positive we gained some fitness which is awesome. Have learned don’t scrimp on bike shorts they were just horrible the ones we bought in Portugal, had to buy a gel seat during the ride. My bum had no hours on the clock for comfort practice. All in all the ride was great, saw beautiful country side, said many times to the walkers buen camino (good way or have a good journey) or sorry for riding past them. One day we stopped for coffee all in important part of the morning and this girl was in the coffee shop she was doing the whole camino from France on a unicycle. That unicycle had a huge tyre. She had reasonable size back pack on too. She was amazing.
But you know be happy walkers you guys walking along with those walking stick thingos going clicky clack constantly would drive me bonkers. Maybe that is why they didn’t smile tired of their own beat.
333kms done met some lovely people from around the world. Buen Camino travellers it was awesome adventure. We are not religious at all as it is a religious journey but I think I had enlightenment on those days of huge accents. Next stop Barcelona
We are meeting some friends from Adelaide Mark & Tracey as well as Rob & Bernie some others as well. They are all hopping on a cruise ship, 10 of them. They will have a great time I am sure. They had been planning this trip for years and its actually happening, they are all very excited. It was great to see Mark & Tracey and another familiar face on our journey this year. We have 4 days in Barcelona. First day we are doing a bike ride around Barcelona for 4 hours a great way to cruise around on e-bikes and you can see a lot too with a guide. But unfortunately Rob & Bernie are a day late as they were flying over and a lady passed out and fell on to Rob’s lap in the middle of the night so the plane was re-directed to Singapore. So an overnight and they are back on track again but a day late and really tired.
We had a great night in a restaurant we found not far from where we were staying. Tapas wine what can go wrong. Next day we are off to the Sagrada Familia they have been building this for 137 years maybe it will be finished soonish in 2026 apparently. They started in 1882 . We have looked at the outside before but not inside. It was very impressive I must say, It didn’t really feel like a church at all. More like an architectural wonder. The rest of the guys went and looked inside one of the famous Gaudi buildings we have seen before. Barcelona has a lot to offer in Gothic quarter the tapas bars are good. It was just finding a good one that is a challenge . We did go inside the famous la Boqueria food market. Wow it was chaos, so busy. The food looks amazing but the amount of people, it was all to much. We did find a tapas bar for a spot of lunch it was tasty but expensive. Us at one end of the bar and Tracey and Mark at the other thats how it goes at tapas bars get a spot where you can with out hesitation.
As we bid fare well to Mark & Tracey and Rob & Bernie and the other punters for their cruise of life time they will have the best time I am definitely sure of that. Tony & I head out to find some Japanese food, every city we come to we search for Japanese food sometimes its a hit, sometimes its a “really “moment. We had a hit in Barcelona it was so good, the kitchen was busy and the care and detail was exceptional. Win, win. After some wandering around looking at the streets of the gothic quarter just meandering we thought lets go and see a flamenco dance show for half and hour. It was actually pretty good. The male dancer was sensational so much energy and just all round good show. The female dancer I wish she wore the beautiful red and black flamenco dress they are so beautiful. Next, dinner we came across a fantastic tapas bar beautiful room and we just asked the waiter just bring us some food and it was the best idea we had all day. We had the best day of indulging in eating in Barcelona. It time to leave and head over to Mallorca.
Well, I think we have found the most beautiful island. We have hired a car and not a small one either, big mistake. I will tell you about that in a tick. We are staying in Solller what a lovely little town. We have 6 nights in a place called 1902 townhouse owned by two guys from the UK Pete and Martin. It’s just beautiful it has 6 rooms so 12 guests on 2 floors with a swimming pool out the back. Pete & Martin live in the beautiful building too. Each morning we are in for a treat a 3 course breakfast. Small portions but wow so tasty. Martin is the cook and Pete is the chatter and delivery of the beautiful breakfast. We have had something different everyday. Just today we had fresh OJ then granola yogurt then zucchini slice (yum) then waffles with mango. Of course coffee or tea. Pete is a wealth of information and recommendations of where to eat and go. Our room over looks the mountains which is just a wonderful view. Each room is different and beautiful decorated. We did sneak a look when a door was open.
So we have an BMW X1 nice car but the roads are so very narrow and so windy and some corners are so tight and the streets are so narrow. It has been a little scary on some roads. A lot of roads have so many cyclists on them riding up very steep gradients I think the island must be the training ground for up hill ascents. Even one day we came across a couple of guys going along the road on cross country style road ski shoes with large wheels they were powering along with great speed and the looked super fit. I was wondering what happens when they come to the downhill how do they manage that.
We drove down to Torrent do Pareis is it was a very windy road with huge bends and very steep, buses are going down as well it was all very tight. We went and looked at a beach called Sa Colobar which you walked through stone tunnels. Nice beach but stoney. On the way back we found a little town for some lunch with wonderful views over the valley and amazing mountain ranges. Guess what, Soller has a Japanese restaurant its not to bad either. So we generally eat there ,had one night at a tapas bar its was nice and one night well, last night we went to this restaurant run by a lady that is kinda in her house. She makes pasta. You have to book as not many seats she brings out the pasta she has made that day and a choice of sauce to go with choose some wine from a shelf. Sounds simple. Its pretty good, she was funny . She never writes anything down and some guests where just sitting there wondering if she is coming back to show them her pasta selection. Or like with us comes back and asks so what was you choice again. Its was a good dinner very funny really, she was nice lady. Soller has a lovely square with a tram that runs through the middle from the Port of Soller to Palma, very quaint.
We also checked out Polenca it was like all of the UK’s elderly had come to retire and decided that I need to get my gear off and head down to the beach no matter what shape I am in and lie in sun and bake like an eggplant. Lot’s of Germans also getting the all-over tan too. Only know that as we sat on beach for a bit watched and listened, as you do. Btw everyone thinks we are from the UK, so not. What is with that anyway???. We also had been recommended by a couple here at 1902 townhouse to visit place called Son Sera de Marina about an hour from Soller. Had great lunch on the beach a last swim in the Mediterranean sea the beach was actually sandy too. Great day, still so warm and the evening are warm too. Then we decided on the way back we need shoes we have been wearing our birks for months now well actually we are on to pair number 2 they get a little stinky after wearing constantly everyday. Well off to the out let shops, Tony scored a pair of cool shoes. Me I am more particular. Such a girl thing. So a quick trip into Palma found the ones, done. Our feet will be in shock.
Today we went and had lunch at this very pretty village about 20 mins from Soller, Fornalutx had a lovely simple lunch but the village is a photo moment around every corner. We also went and checked another little village Orient now that was a windy narrow roads just a little hotel and restaurant but ever so pretty.
We have loved being in Mallorca, so much more to see. Where Rafa’s house is in Porto Cristo didn’t go there. He probably wasn’t home anyway. Out playing tennis or getting some new undies to pick out of his bum, sorry did I just write that. But it’s true. He is getting married next month too so must be on the island somewhere.
Off to Paris for a couple of nights to wander the streets and blend in with my new shoes. No-one will notice when I can’t wear them any more cause feet haven’t adjusted to the enclosed feeling and the birks are back on them tootsies. Hopefully I have de -smelled them is that even a word. Another thing I hope it is not too cold. Will let you know in the next paragraph when I get there to tomorrow.
Bonjour Paris, we have two nights in a la petite airbnb place in the 9th arrisdonment. Its tiny the loft where the bed is you have to walk like an person with a crooked back to scramble into your bed. It use to be bakery. So the door opened directly on the street. Interesting but practical all that we need for our very short stay. We are recommended a restaurant two minutes walk around the corner. Bonhommie. Well, it was fantastic night the food was sensational. The staff were just amazing so friendly. We sat at the bar chatted to the bar tender making some cocktails drank wine and cocktails ate some tasty food from the kitchen you could see. Welcome to Paris.
Next day we have the whole day to fill in so what so you do be a Parisian and walk your butt off and that is exactly what we did. 22,000 petite steps mind you. We weren’t shopping at all just looking at the people the the sights and that is about it. It is so beautiful Paris.What makes it beautiful?. I think it’s the old architecture the Parsian apartments stacked up in those small streets with their pretty balconies. Its certainly crowded and you never short of finding a place to eat. You are definitely not going to starve. Might wet you pants because finding a toilette is such a chore and difficult when you a bursting. That is always when you are not familiar with your surroundings. I wish we had longer but we stuffed up our departure dates to leave Europe. 90 days for us Aussies is all we are allowed.
Btw I tell you a little secret I did buy a something and its starts with D, and I can put it on my shoulder. I will treasure it for ever.
We are off to USA today. Au Revoir Paris. It was short and sweet as usual. Till next time when you capture our hearts again.
tonyandsharon 