Mt Everest and base camp
Let’s start with our last day in Kathmandu before we get onto our next adventure.
We got the call that we were flying by helicopter over base camp. We had tried before but weather was not favourable. But this time it did seem like things were happening we had a pick up at 5.30am. We felt like we had been up all night with the revellers at the night club directly across from our hotel. The Roadhouse was only 6 months old and beautifully done with a fabulous cafe next door. But downside party town right across the road. I think they shut off the music when we were being picked up. In hindsight should have stayed were we were. Lesson learnt. Or the hotel could issue ear plugs in your room.
We are at the airport by 6am that’s when it opens we are weighed which is like what the……… I weigh that much? All happening we are flying with a group of 3 others from Hungry. We are all excited by this adventure of 3-4 hours . The weather in Kathmandu is hazy as usual. Really thought we weren’t going to take off. I bagged front seat for the flight up. It was such an interesting flight over the mountains that had been carved out like rice terraces. For growing crops. Shepherds perched on top of valleys with their flocks of yak or sheep. The further we flew towards Mt Everest the more barren the landscape became. So beautiful as well as majestic, with the mountains coming into view when we banked around corners.
Our first stop with Lukla to drop off some fuel that will be needed to get back to Kathmandu. At 2860m. So just a very quick stop. We are heading now to Kaarrapthur which is landing spot very close to base camp. First we have to drop 3 of the passengers off at Namche Bazaar for about 15 mins as the helicopter can only take a lighter load up to 5600 m. So we leave the Hungarians. We are off, we do a fly over base camp which has 500 trekkers there waiting for May 2nd to start climbing. All with yellow tents camped on the side of the glacier. Crazy the amount of people there and the rubbish and who knows how they deal with the poo and wee issues. That makes your mind wonder on how doesn’t it. When the landscape is all rocks and so, so barren.
We got out for around 10 minutes tried to take the photo but the sun was right in the way. It was a beautiful blue sky morning with no wind. It didn’t really even feel cold or the air feel thin. We were in total awe of looking at Mt Everest and thinking we are 3000 m from being at the top of the world. It was something I must say. We said we would never trek up there. We did see the trekkers walking up this narrow path from one tea house to the next. It wasn’t really floating our boat at all.
We flew to the Everest View Hotel and had breakfast had a beautiful view of the mountains. We were so lucky with the weather.
It was such a memorable morning will remain with us for ever. A once in a life time experience to do and see. An awesome way to depart from Kathmandu.
We flew overnight through Doha the whole trip took nearly 15 hours felt a bit yuk when we finally arrived in Johannesburg.
Aweh, South Africa
Today we are flying to Zimbabwe to Victoria Falls on Zambezi River with Zambia on the other side. To stay at Bantoka Lodge. Felt like we had arrived into a retirement village. So many old people. Not that we are young but hey we aren’t that old. First off we have a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River with drinks and snacks that was really nice and met a charming couple Julie & Craig (I think, sorry if I got that wrong).they were from Sydney. Really nice couple they had travelled more in Africa than we had and it was so interesting to hear their adventures and what animals they had seen. Tonight we saw some lovely birds and a bloat of hippos so lovely. It was a good introduction to South Africa. We also had a guide take us to the Falls. Probably didn’t really need that. It was so misty at the falls with so much water it creates this cloud above the falls. The sound was fantastic we were told that not much rain this season. It was bizarre that it kind of rains from the condensation from the falls creating a rainforest with many exotic plants growing. So you are given a raincoat from one the venders outside the falls in hoping that they will get a sale from you. Sorry fellas if only we could. It certainly was an experience. We also flew over the falls in a short 15min ride to see the enormity of the falls what a sight to behold.
Next day was our little safari in Livingstone Reserve. We had Cedric as our driver and 3 others with us from Cape Town . They certainly had the posh sounding South African accent if I have ever heard one. Cedric was really good with information from a small beetle to the plants.
We saw Giraffe, Impalas, Black Rhino hiding in the bushes he wasn’t coming out and showing his beauty to busy grazing. Also zebras but unfortunately no elephants we saw lot of elephant dung so they had been around. We were a little pushed on time which we weren’t aware of until after our most delicious bush breakfast we were herded back into the jeep very quickly as the Cape Towner’s had a plane to catch. So it was unfortunate that we couldn’t spend more time searching for the elusive elephants. As I am sure the Cape Towners had seen elephants before. They did say they saw one the night before leaving the wedding that they had come up to attend. Lucky bastards. Hopefully later the month we will see a herd of elephants and more animals. I guess to its the luck of the draw if they are around when you are out there in the jeep looking for them. Maybe going in the morning isn’t enough, as the evening would have been better usually the animals are more active after the heat of the day has passed to go to the water holes for water. So I think we should have been booked into both. It’s always in hindsight.
Bonzour, Mauritius
Today we flew to Mauritius a nearly 4 hour flight from Johannesburg. It was quite beautiful flying into a very green and mountainous island. It was just over an hour to drive to the East side of island were we have been booked into one of the Lux Resorts Group. While driving here the landscape is mainly mountains and sugar cane field everywhere. So very lush. We drive through a few villages along the coast road. Its so nice to see the sea and hear its sound after being in land locked countries for nearly a month.
Mauritius is a French speaking country or creole our driver said. BTW at customs the guy wanted to know where we were flying after when we leave here but for the next 8 months. So had to reel them off. Now that was a first.
The resort is nice and everything but to family orientated so many kids everywhere. Just confirming we aren’t resort people. They charge so much for food as there isn’t anywhere outside the gate to go so you are trapped really. One more day and we head to Madagascar.
Salma, Madagascar
Arriving in Madagascar at the airport had its mishaps. No pick-up as pre arranged with Intrepid. So crossed our fingers and got a local driver kind of like a Uber driver to take us to the our hotel for the night. The drive was maybe 45mins which we found out was lucky as the traffic can be unbearably slow.
Tonight we meet the other punters taking the adventure with us, we have
,
Gary & Trish from Tweed heads retired ex Adelaide people living in a magic part of the world. Have travelled extensively. Nice people
Anna & Genny from Ireland work for Google Anna is from Russia and Genny is from the Ukraine happy go lucky couple have travelled a lot too. Nice people.
Also we have Marie from Bathhurst Nice person originally from French Canada but has been living in Australia for 12 years and still has the accent. Lovely person.
Our Guide for the trip is Patrick and driver Jon
After leaving Antananrivo the capital we head to Andasibe National Park first a quick stop at the super market for water as you don’t drink the water here apparently and a few snacks and our lunch. First stop is the Pereyras Nature reserve. MMMM……. Not sure you would call it that but they had quite a few Chameleons in large caged areas. It was good to see them up close and see their beautiful colours. They had other critters too. After that was our first hotel The Grace lodge. We have 2 nights here. Roads in Madagascar are just horrendous pot holes and more pot holes did I mention pot holes. just simply bad conditions. Trucks that have broken down on the side or the middle of the road and under repair some I think have been there for a long time gathering from the camp next to them. Just getting into the Grace Lodge was just a muddy pot holed road over a very dodgy bridge.
Next day we had a walk around a Andasibe National Park for about 3-4 hours with a great guide we did see Lemurs but mainly their bottoms as they are high up in the trees jumping from tree to tree eating the fresh leaves. Nice walk around anyway. Lunch then another super bumpy ride to a Lemur park/island. We did get up close to the these very cute creatures but they are fed bananas, Not their natural food. They are in captivity in a way. Probably was the hi-light of the day.
Next day omg 8 hours in the van/bus over bumpy roads going through villages of people trying to sell their meague produce people walking every where to get the nearest markets. In very filthy clothes and generally with no shoes and babies on their backs or on the younger children backs. People pushing carts stacked with timber probably to make charcoal for their cooking needs. Rickshaws that people are pulling and running with no shoes. The poverty of everyone is so very much in your face constantly. It’s all very heart breaking the sights you see especially the children. You can’t give them anything as you are then creating this thinking that tourist will always be giving you something. Even though deep down you want to give them something. The government is so very bad. Hearing our guide talk about this, the corruption, not caring for their people, poor education and medical. If you are so very lucky to study and go to university and get a degree maybe in teaching or nursing, you are then told there are no jobs and you have to work for free for 2 years and you only might get a job being paid. What the hell……
The service stations are owned by the politicians and put the price up to exorbitant rates.
Education in primary years isn’t compulsory then the kids have to walk for up to 2 hours or more to get there and usually without any food in their bellies. Then be at school until 1pm then walk home again still no food. How can kids learn with no nourishment. Parents struggle just to feed the family on the rice crops and any other food they might grow. Still they keep having more babies. No jobs to be had either.
Tonight our hotel is the Residence Madalief. Which was started by a dutch lady called Remy. She was tourist guide, then met a lady who started caring for orphaned children. She started helping her the best way she could. She started canteens in some locals schools. At 10am each day those children would receive a meal. The attendance at the school went up as the parents knew that their children at least had a good meal once a day. The children’s learning improved as they had a full belly, so simple and rewarding.
The hotel was built so she could raise monies for these canteens. As well as help with medical care for families in need, which there are countless. It was a lovely hotel the dinner was delicious. She doesn’t advertise or want big tourist groups. As there was only 14 rooms. We both had great admiration for Remy and her work.
Another huge day in the van on bumpy roads staring at the landscape of mud brick houses perched on hill sides. Terraced fields .People out manually digging away in the fields planting crops or slashing the rice crop and bashing the rice from the stalks to dry in the sun.
Certainly a hard life.
We did stop at a silk weaving co-op but before we had lunch in a locals house it was really nice.
Rice, tomatoes, beans, chicken, Zebu (a cow, like a brahma), green beans, carrots also some fresh fruit and coffee. Mind you they grew everything even the coffee beans and it was all organic as far as we could see, It was delicious and our host Philly was very gracious to have us in her house.
We are heading to another national park but the weather is so very, very wet.Ranomafana National Park to see more lemurs.
Well I woke this morning not good may be something I ate who knows. Tony was all good he did the rainforest walk. The rain had stopped. He saw many lemurs trekking around the rainforest.
Another huge drive kinda getting use to this whole day in the car. But today we are heading to Fianarantsoa to a hotel were the the people that work there are training to come workers in the hospitality industry. Its was a very nice room dinner was unusual to say the least the certainly didn’t get the no meat thing.
Next day we are on a guided walk through rice paddies on our way to a village were lunch will be served in a locals house. It was great walk over looking the valley. Lunch was upstairs in this house on the second floor were all guest are received. The kitchen is upstairs. We had rice, spinach and pork and roasted rice tea and coffee. It was all very tasty and all very clean sitting in a room on small poufs with everything served on the floor. After lunch we are invited upstairs to see the kitchen. So up very small narrow stairs we are led up 3 at a time to a very dark room with black sticky soot ceiling which apparently seals he thatch from the rain. a very small window. In one corner is the charcoal booking area. So very dark and when you look around there was maybe 8 others in the kitchen room sitting on the floor. It was, wow how do they manage to see in here let alone cook the food and the smoke in halation. Not so good for your lungs.
After lunch we had another 20mins walk back to the van. Then another walk around Betsileo area where there are 6 churches perched on hill. Kinda like being in Provence with the villages being on the hill. It was interesting. The usual kids pestering you for money. Tried a yummy watercress fritter from on of the tiny shops. It was tasty.
Another day in the car once again we are heading to Isalo National Park but like everything in Madagascar it’s a long way between stops today is 8 hours in the car, so over this. But half way we stop at this lunch place order lunch an hour before hand go for a little walk with a guide to see a pocket of Lemurs living in the forest. We have seen so many. But really still enjoy watching them and trying to take their photos.
We arrive in Isalo National Park to a nice hotel to our surprise. We are up early next day to do a 6 hour walk with a guide first part was in the more arid area it was a really nice walk. To a spot that had a vista of the valley and these rock formations that look like a small version of the Olgas and some say it look like some parts of the grand canyon. Part B of the walk was down a valley to a black pool of water. It was another really interesting walk. We saw a white lemur but it was the only one, there was none others. Poor lemur plenty of others the ring tail variety. Jumping from branch to branch or running on the ground so curious and not afraid of you. We walked through the very lush area of the valley to the black pool Marie and Anna jumped in. It was very cold but refreshing. We really like this park.
But all things have to come to an end and we are up at 3.30am the next morning for the 275 km drive to Tulear to catch a boat to Anakao. We did manage to stop at a boab tree. Take the photo. We are so disappointed in this whole trip not to go to the avenue of boabs but we are told its a hard place to get to. Its quiet the iconic place of Madagascar other than the lemurs. Them the breaks should have read the itinerary better. Rookie mistake….
We arrive at the harbour about 9.30am to our surprise to a zebu cart ride out to the speed boat. Those poor zebu the way they are treated their short life is hell. But we have no choice but to use this form of transport to get to the boat as the tide is very low. It was an hour ride to our last and final destination the Lalandaka Eco lodge it was a beautiful sight too the bleached timber lodge. Our room was fantastic very simple but very comfortable. No shower though but you given a bucket of water for washing your self with and a bucket for the loo. But hey that is perfectly fine in this beautiful location. Sleeping with door open under a mozzie net is heaven. But heaven only lasted one night, it was supposed to be two but we needed to be back in Tanna to make the next flight the following day. So we had our final dinner with our fellow travellers. They were a great bunch to travel with very easy going, funny and just plain nice. Good bye to our guide Patrick he did an excellent job took his position very seriously didn’t really get the Aussie sense of humour though, extremely knowledgeable though. Jon who drove like a champion slowly, slowly over the many, many,many pot holes. We had one night back in Tanna ( Antananarivo) at a airport hotel then another night back in Johannesburg airport hotel which is our last time back there. Its great hotel close to the terminal, well its in the airport itself. Been through customs so many times now I feel like a local. Just in this leg of the trip we have worked out we have 10 flights coming and going. Don’t you love airport life…….. Nope !!!!
ola, Mozambique
Todays flight is to Mozambique this is our lux time on a white sandy beach in warm water. So we arrive at Vilanculos airport really small but very modern. Guess what no pick-up again ,what the hell. But one of the airport staff said he saw him here. He sorted it for us and the driver returned. Driving through the township was really clean paved roads. The people and housing looks clean. It’s not like Madagascar at all. Plus they speak Portuguese here. In Madagascar it’s French or Malagasy. We are staying at the Bahia Mar Club just for one night in a Seaview room. It’s beautiful the grounds the room the staff such a contrast from Madagascar. The thing is we are only here for one night but there is an upside.
We are going by helicopter to Benguerra Island to a resort called Azura. I must say we do love the helicopter ride, what an awesome way to make an entrance. Plus its the only way to get to the island. So seriously we are in heaven. We have 3 nights here eating and drinking wine (yeah, double yeah) its been awhile swimming working on that tan and most importantly washing our stinky clothes boy does our bag stink. Cost a bomb but had to be done. We are Loving it here. The tides are huge too they can go out almost a kilometre. We have our own butler Raul he will do or get anything sorted for you. We are low maintenance so his job is easy. But if you wanted to spend some cash you could go snorkelling, picnics on deserted islands, fishing but we just hanging cause its very pricey and in the old US dollar, bloody Australian exchange rate. Not complaining at all, it’s all awesome.
Aweh Cape Town
Here we are in Cape Town staying at this really nice place called Cloud Nine. Today we are on a mission to get some new clothes. We walked towards the V & A Waterfront. It was about an hour walk. Nice crisp early morning walk too. We got a little lost but this guy who was trying to get work for the day. As there is no unemployment benefits, people would stand at intersections and offer their services for a days work could be anything. I think sometimes they don’t get any work, so no money and then the cycle starts of poverty and struggle. He was really nice to direct us in the right direction. If we had some small rand we would have given some change.
We had a great day shopping and Tony got a hair cut which was a scary thought. But turned out well. Ate way too much sushi. We were hanging out for. Had an afternoon drink in the this amazing hotel called the Silo hotel. That is what it is an old silo turned into a hotel. Great views, great GnT’s bloody expensive. But a great experience and that is what every day is one amazing experience after another. Next day we are picked up by a driver Shamie, he drove to The Cape Of Good Hope took the photo drove along an amazing road just out of Cape Town through Camp Bay were all the wealthy people live in their electrified fenced homes over looking the southern ocean. Saw some penguins went to the botanical gardens. Great day out exploring. Cloud Nine hotel was a great location for choices of food and a view of Table Top Mountain. Which believe it or not we didn’t even go up the cable car to the top.
Today we flew to Skukuza airport which is the airport in Kruger National Park for our safari time at Inyati Safari lodge.(means water buffalo) It was about 2 hour flight from Cape Town then an hour drive through Kruger to the Sabi Sand (meaning of Sabi Sand is fearful sand) Private Reserve which is right next to Kruger, on about 65,000 hectares. Apparently this is were you get to see the big 5 on the list of must see wild animals. Inyati Safari lodge is smallish lodge taking up 22 guests. We arrive and greeted by this lovely lady who takes us on the tour of the lodge before seeing our beautiful room. The lodge itself has no fences so the animals can wonder straight on in and graze on the grass. The common areas was beautifully done with comfy couches and views of serenity. Well, until you hear the hippos making this incredible loud noise at the bottom of the garden in the river. Then would also come up on the grass in the evening to graze. We arrive around 2.30pm and afternoon tea is served at 3 pm before all of the guests pile into the jeeps for an afternoon safari of around 3 hours. We are in a jeep with an American family, daughter and boyfriend, dad and his girlfriend. Not the friendliest family it was like we were invading their jeep and family time. Dad had a booming loud American accent, eek….. Our guide was Darren and tracker Nelson who was seated on the bonnet.
We set off full of anticipation and excitement of what we will see. Darren was a very knowledgable man. Nelson had eyes of an eagle spotting the tracks of the leopard it’s what this area is really known for. We spot lion male who was very old and skinny. He was apparently 14 years old. His life as the head of the pack was coming to an end as he couldn’t no longer fight the younger males for the mating of the females. He also had a younger cousin who was of similar age that was a grandpa too. So first outing we saw elephants, giraffe, zebra, water buffalo, and the leopard. It was crazy how Darren would go off the road and just drive straight through the bush in the Land Rover, what a machine. There was some super prickly acacia bushes that had spines like needles. We stop for a sun downer GnT’s and a snack which was all packed in the back with ice and lemon. So decadent love this type of safari.We watched the sky changed to a beautiful crimson colours and just listening to the sounds of the bush, for once the American dad kept quiet. (eye rolling emoji insert here) . We piled back in, blankets wrapped around us and search for more animals on our way back to the lodge and that is when we came across the male lion with it’s booming growl was very impressive. Back by 6.30 in time for a pre-dinner vino at the bar. Dinner is served at 7.30pm. The food is plenty and delicious with a couple of glasses of red and guess what, we have to sit with booming dad voice for our dinner, yippee …….. We could never walk back to the room on our own we had to have staff member with us just in case an animal is lurking in the darkness and was still hungry. hahaaaa….
Each morning is the knock on the door at 5.30am to be in the common area for a pre breakfast pastry and coffee. Boy is it cold. The safari vehicle is open air. Jump on board by 6.30am. But luckily they give us hot water bottle to hug like a koala. So I would snuggle up to Tony we would set off to look for what ever we might come across. We came across a lot today. Wild dogs, hyenas, leopards, giraffe, hippopotamus, rhino with baby, impalas, water bucks, wildebeests and Woghorts as well. A pride of lions that had 3 cubs we followed them down to river and watched as they drank and lazed in the sun they all had just eaten a kill and their bellies were really big and round and just about touching the ground. So now they will sleep and conserve the energy until the next feeding session. Sleeping up to 20 hours a day. Saw lots of fascinating birds too. Inyati has 4 safari vehicles out at one time compared to other lodges around the area. They all spoke with two way radio’s to one another letting each other know what they have seen and found. When we arrived at the pride of lions there was 3 other vehicles there from different lodges. So all take in turns pole position To get the photo shot.. Then let the next vehicle have a viewing time. It was all very civilised. No matter how much you may have paid to stay at a certain lodge and there are some very expensive lodges near where we stayed. Sir Richard Branson Lodge for example you might have to sell your house to stay there a few nights, bloody expensive. The morning safari would end by about 10.30am.
One morning brunch was set up under the trees. You are so ravenous too by then.. The rest of the day you can do as little or as much as you want until afternoon tea time and the off we go again. BTW afternoon tea was decadent too. Never went hungry or wanting more.
It’s winter time, well what they call winter the day time temp about 25 degrees night time maybe 15 degrees. Really nice weather. But there has been a drought for the past 4 years. Not any where near enough rain. The poor animals will migrate else were for water and fresh feed.
American family departed, yeah (that is mean but, wow intense). We did a walking safari with Darren so with a gun over his shoulder that is loaded for inevitable encounter with a local animals, we go tracking for about an hour towards the lodge. He showed us different plants for different purposes. Looked and found tracks from elephants, giraffe’s and leopards. We did see giraffes, it was really great thing to do. Loved it.
Last day we get put on to another vehicle of another guide Gabriel he is only 23 but a very knowledgable young man. Different style of course with another tracker Cliff. We did track down a male leopard and a pride of lions this afternoon and not much else, it’s all luck really. But our final safari before we depart was an amazing adventure. This safari was the best in my books. We tracked down a herd of elephants maybe 10-20. We drove through the bush and there they were. We parked and they just all walked past with babies protected by the mothers and the herd. They seemed to not care what so ever that we were there. We are not a threat to them I guess. After that amazing moment Gabriel was given the location of a female young leopard. We tracked it down and followed it. Same again didn’t care two hoots that we were right on her tail. She stopped for rest in the shade then spied a large tree and ran up it. She was so beautiful sitting up there looking over the grasslands for some tasty impala. It was a great note to finish off our safari adventure.
We both had the best time here.It was definitely the hi-light of the trip. We have been in Africa for 34 days travelling all over. Experiences were all so different . Will we ever come back and go to another region I am not sure. Many guests we spoke to have been many times before, go to different areas and different terrains.
It time to fly to the next destination Cairo, Jordan and Israel for the next 23 days.
tonyandsharon 