Category: Nepal Tibet Bhutan

We flew Air India but were very surprised that there was no tv’s in the seats and no drinks being served. We did get some yummy mango lassi though. A tasty curry as well. Had an overnight in New Delhi airport but silly me made a mistake with the booking and had us in the domestic airport, wrong hotel? But lucky there was a room at the inn.   It took us over an hour to get off the plane be issued with new tickets and get through security. Being a female is so much quicker to get though security. Not so quick for the males it was nearly midnight before we found the wrong hotel but the right one for our needs.  It was only a short 90min flight to Nepal the next morning too.

Flying into Nepal looking out the window you could see the Himalaya in the distance, what a beautiful sight.  Going through immigration was another interesting experience. After collecting bags was an organised chaos in the bag collection area. People and bags everywhere.

We are picked up taken into the Thamel district in Kathmandu.Very much the tourist area. Then had a meeting with Ace Himalaya.  Just run through our program for the next 20 days and get our Tibet visa in progress.

Our first lunch was at a restaurant just down the street called Thamel House. Up a few flights of stairs to a room and we are the only customers. Sitting on the floor now that tests the cross legged sitting position. It was a set menu vegetarian Thali. 

OMG…… it was so good, from the little soup first to some crunchy potatoes with Nepali spices to momo’s then Thali plate of paneer curry , Dahl, veg curry. Spinach, rice and pickles then a yogurt desert so yummy for a bout $12 per head, oh yeah, we had some rice wine poured into these tiny little vessels, very potent .  We went back and had a nap for a few hours after that. We have never done that before.  That night we found a Japanese restaurant a few doors down from the hotel. Great tempera and rice  and a Gorka beer.

Next day we met our guide Kedar and driver Obi for the next couple of days .  Driving around Kathmandu is a new experience the roads are of poor quality and the dust ,oh my god, the dust.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

First stop was the Monkey Temple (Swoyambhunath stupa). So many monkey’s running around, beautiful sight too with the prayer flags flapping in the wind.

Next was a visit to Kathmandu Durbar Square, buildings are from the 12th & 18th Centuries. To see so many beautiful temples that are a fraction of their beauty left after the 2015 earthquake. Which happen to have been in April.. .  They are trying to rebuild with support from Japan, China.  In the Kathmandu Durbar Square is the Kamari (meaning princess) Ghur Palace.  This is an unusual story of the living goddess of Nepal.  She is selected from the Shakya caste. At the age of 3 she has to have certain qualities 

A neck like a conch shell, a body like a banyan tree, eyelashes like a cow, thighs like a deer, chest like a lion and voice soft and clear as a duck.

She is taken from her parents after certain rituals have been performed to show she is the chosen one.  Her parents can only see her on formal occasions.  She is only allowed outside the palace 13 times a year and feet are not  touch the ground. Also many believe that if they see her pass by the window in the court yard of the palace you have been blessed. Back many years ago she wasn’t allowed  to be educated but now things have changed she is educated and access to the internet for education and social awareness. As from her first menstruation she is no longer a Kamari Or if she bleeds cuts her finger. They believe the Teleju spirit will leave the goddess body. That is a very short version of the story but fascinating in every respect.  

We also heard another story how Jimmy Hendricks, John Lennon and Bob Marley use to sit in the Pagodas that isn’t there now and smoke hash with the local holy men. There is also a street called hippy street where before 1973 it was the street for back packing stoners. Before it became illegal. Hey, they were the day’s…….

We also went to Patan Durbar Square  created around the  ‘17th’ century another beautiful square of an amazing pagodas and temples also a former royal palace.  Not so much earth quake damage to this Durbar.  The beautiful building have amazing timber windows  with intricate carved fret work was all in very good condition.

We had lunch at a roof top restaurant over looking the local buildings. The whole day has been very dusty many people walk around with face masks on.

Last stop of the day was a walk around a village where  rice and vegetables are grown in terraced gardens.  Today was a festival of celebration of the house I think, I gathered that from our guide lots of drumming and symbols being used going around  house to house.

Most of the houses are quite tall and very narrow , they look like they are one room wide.

Back tonight to the Japanese restaurant so cheap for udon noodles and tempura and a beer.

Woke this morning to thunder and lightning and rain and cold. It has been ages since we have had to put on something warm. 

First stop very early this morning was an ancient temple Changunarayan temple  was founded 323 AD a world heritage site dedicated to the hindu god Vishnu. The pagodas are just beautiful structures to look at, with brass doors and all the amazing timber fret work.

We also went to Bungmati village founded in the ‘7th’ century the earth quake hit hard here  some  of the pagodas and temples  but not the palace of 50 windows  was in perfect condition. Many temples and pagodas surrounded this palace which are no longer occupied.

• 

• 

Next stop was the top of the Holly Ganges River to where cremations are performed . We have seen cremations before in Agra next to the Taj Mahal but only really from a distance. Today a cremation was being performed which can take up 3-4 hours. Next to them a person had passed away and that person was lying warped in cloth after rituals have been performed ready for the cremation to be performed on the steps. I am not shocked by this, its  natural part of the circle of life, we eventually die. It’s just the way different cultures deal with the passing of life.

What we have been told that with the many festivals that happen in Nepal scarifies are a common occurrence buffalo and goats are a common ritual animal.  When we where leaving the Bungmati village a sacrifice of a goat was happening that is something I can’t watch. Anything to do with animals just can’t go there.

Last stop today was  the second largest stupa in the world. We have seen the largest in Myanmar the Shwedagon Pagoda that is amazing . Today was very large but not as impressive as the Shwedagon one but had a lovely vibe. Went into a monastery and received a blessing from a monk. I hope they wished me well on my travels.  Two of the monasteries had huge prayer wheels. Had lunch on  another roof top restaurant with fabulous views of the stupa

It has been a cold day but such an interesting last 2 days of visiting Kathmandu. Out on the street so many shops selling mountaineering clothes and accessories for all the trekkers and Cashmere rugs and scarves. All so beautiful and at a great price but can’t buy, so sad. We did buy a Mandala which was painted by a master, apparently  took him 3 months working 6 hours a day with meditation. Beautiful art work Tony and I just loved it so its in the bag for the next 9 months.

Tomorrow we driving to Pokhara a 7 hour drive .

Driving to Pokhara, well just getting out to Pokhara was just radical. It had been raining the night before and driver Obi had to negotiate pot holes, mud, buses that decided their side of the road was to muddy and just took it upon them selves to drive on the other side of the road towards us and the other cars streaming forward just crazy driving but we had faith in Obi and tour guide Yam not sure why Yam was with us but he was the size of a Yam maybe that is why he was named Yam.  After getting through squelching mud and pot holes and people and traffic from every direction we are up on, a narrow road with busses fully laden with people spilling out from the doors trucks over loaded and spirting out diesel fumes, gross.  It was time to hang on for dear life white knuckles.  It was really putting your life in the hands of Obi but we felt that he had driven this road a few times before. His skill was right up there. Driving up right behind buses or trucks peaking out just a bit then deciding it was time to drop it back a gear and just gun it in front of the next truck. Oh, shit this is not going well but I am here writing this, so we survived.  We stopped for lunch at a restaurant had a pretty good Thali style lunch it was tasty, cost nothing. But the best thing was a little hut in front of the restaurant that had a coffee machine. Heaven….Espresso times 2 and a cookie thanks very much. Fully caffeine up and ready for the next 3 more hours of rally driving. While we were waiting for Obi and Yam to do their thing we wondered around and wouldn’t you know it. I spotted a dope plant just growing on the side of river. Tony said he seen a matured plant with heads growing on the side of the road. I guess it’s just a weed here, hahaaaa…. We made it into Pokhara said goodbye to Yam and Obi for today and went out walking Pokhara, it’s situated on a lake not actually a lake but a man made dam for the town water. Apparently there is the same amount of people in Nepal as there is in New Delhi alone. Thats 25 million hang on isn’t that the population of all of Australia, Crazy.

We had  nice little walk around found somewhere for dinner the choice is huge. Next morning we woke to clear blue skies and we could see the Himalaya Mountains and a sacred mountain called Fish Tail Mountain, it was certainly a fabulous surprise as we came in yesterday couldn’t see a thing, low-cloud. So many trekkers in Pokhara it is the gate way to the Annapurna Mountain range.  When you look towards the mountain range lots of paragliding going on, swirling in the sky catching the thermals,  a beautiful sight. Tomorrow we have a guide Martine taking us to a few spots. She was a lovely lady very professional guide had lots of good information but what we saw was mmmmm……. Nothing to write about here on this page. A stupa, a swing bridge built in the 50’s, a cave that was not good. A refugee camp now that was weird. Those people in the camp are stuck there for ever will never be granted citizenship. But get all the health care and schooling for the children and they made rugs which was a personnel thing in taste. Not that nice but kept the ladies busy.

We decided after walking past a place well several places were you can book in for paragliding we should try this, looks like to much fun. So we did, through the hotel and it way cheaper doing it that way.  We were picked up at 9.15am and taken to the office for some  signing your life away forms just in case thing went terribly wrong. That puts the nervous tension up a little. There are 6 of us, Mr & Mrs young couple with tattoos and Mr & Mrs Thailand and us. We had to wait for a while because it was raining in the morning and the cloud was low. I think we waited maybe an hour. Then all systems are go. Piled into the bus us 6 plus 6 more pilots and gear. Up we drive to Sarangkot a launching area. We thought we where going to slide off the edge of the road it was so slippery the bus was sliding sideways. White knuckles again.  Pretty scary and we haven’t even jumped off the cliff yet. With a giant parachute.

We made to the launch area.  Waited until the wind turned to be blowing into out faces, not long maybe 20mins. We are all assigned a pilot, I got Nhil and guess what, I am first, dammit…

So all strapped in, parachute flayed out,  he just says run and run hard to edge. Yeah, great idea in theory but in practice, then we lifted off what a beautiful feeling couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. The up-daft, the silence and the view over Pokhara was fabulous. Swirling around like a large bird catching the thermals.  Just before landing, Nhil says do you want to do acrobatics? Well, why not, so we swing from side to side or go around in a circle the inertia was fantastic. Loved it, what a thrill and landed so softly. So up there around 30mins felt like 10. Could have gone and done it all over again, it was so much fun.

Tony loved it too but he got a false start running off the launch area he said he was running forward as hard as he could towards the edge of the cliff and for some reason the parachute didn’t catch the wind. He was told to stop just before the edge. Holy crap, that would have sent the heebie jeebies up my spine. But no, Tony took it in his stride and had a fantastic flight, eventually.  This was so much fun, what an amazing morning.  After that we met Martine for hike down from the Stupa which was about 1000 steps to the lake then on a tiny boat across the lake and we are done. Pokhara was great. We thought about trekking. You never know we might come back.

Tomorrow we are heading to Chitwan National Park to see wildlife I hope we see some.

After leaving Pokhara we drove along a deep ravine road with towering mountains either side with a brown fast flowing river where in some places the river bed is mined for its river stones. Or for materials to make cement, but it was very hairy narrow road. But once again Obi had the skills and we arrived in Chitwan in one piece. Obi and Yam were driving back to Kathmandu. So we said goodbye to them. We are here for 2 nights. First night we walked with a guide from the hotel to the river bank through the local village to see sunset and also if we spot some wild life. We did see a few marsh crocodiles and some deer and monkeys . It was pleasant  and a nice sunset before dinner was had. Which was unusual but had no choice it was part of the package? 

Next day we are up early to be taken in wooden canoe boats down the river to see if we can spot some crocodiles a few were seen but small then a walk through the forest to apparently see wildlife. I am no tracker of wild life but if there is fresh poo on the ground the animals have  been around, me thinking. Nothing was seen, such a farce really. Then a walk into the Elephant Breeding Centre. OMG… Those poor elephants tied up with chains to one leg, there Mahmoot no where to be seen. Baby elephants seem to be able to roam free. But the poor mothers rocking back and forth all she wanted to do was gather up her baby and keep her safe next to her. It was so cruel. We really didn’t want to be here. Then we walked a little further around to get out of this place more female elephants are tied up  with chains but both of their front feet. They couldn’t even more. What is this place, why is this happening? Why aren’t they left to be free in the national park with the rhino? Is this tourism? I am sure most of the people that come to this place are in disgust of the treatment of these beautiful creatures. But what can you do? Not come,  then community suffer and it goes down the line employment on many levels . Someone WWF should come and see what they sponsor.

In the afternoon we crossed the river again in wooden canoes to be on the back of jeeps to spot some free roaming animals it was so hot. We did spot a rhino, sloth bear and monkeys they also had this hideous crocodile breeding place.  Our guide was trying to pretend he saw free roaming elephants, tigers he was a good actor I must say. 

Next day we opted to fly back to Kathmandu than the 7 hours winding bumpy hairy ride.

 We flew to Tibet for 3 days mainly around Lhasa. It’s a 90min fight with China Air. It was a bumpy flight over the Himalayan Mountains, very scenic though.  We have never been to china before. So coming here is an experience like nothing else we have seen  before. We have a ride to Lhasa about an hour from the airport. The landscape is very barren and mountainous grey brown earth, very rocky.  Some of the peaks still have snow on them. It’s just the beginning of spring and there is some blossom on trees, what trees there are. The fields have no crops. Just bare earth. As I guess winter has just finished the snow has melted.

  Padma, our guide seems well informed in the Tibetan culture he has been a guide since 1997 when most tourists where foreigners but now he said that there are so many Chinese now that come to visit . We had a look around Monasteries  with so many statues of buddha and Dali Lamas of past, kings and princess. Statues for worshipping for good health or for good business so many other reasons. Yak melted butter was poured into large candle containers as part of the worship too I wish I could remember all that was said. We wished we could have taken photos inside of the  Deprung Monastery as they are something to behold with ancient buddhas and hand painted ceilings and colour everywhere. The teaching rooms or study areas for the monks were something to behold too.  On the street you have a lot of the Tibetan people dressed in national dress men and women. Some with most elaborate head dresses on. With turquoise and coral beads. Most people seem to carry the prayer beads. We noticed and were told that when you are older you come to a Jokhang  Temple the most scared of monasteries in the Barkor area and you circle it clockwise with your pray wheel  and pray beads and say a certain mantra  and keep going around for up to 2 months or as long as you can. So you pass into the next life with good karma and you go to a good place after death. Now that is devotion. We walked with the these people today to see the exact path they were taking. We certainly got some looks. But very friendly with big smiles. Food has been interesting Yak is on the menu. Yak cheese, Yak curry, Yak, Yak……. We have been having dinner at the same place Dufy Restaurant the food is pretty good sort of a mixture of Chinese and Tibetan and little western food, like pasta. The staff were lovely.

We haven’t felt any ill effects from the high altitude.  Padma just said drink boiled water. So warm water we did, or green tea.  Had a Lhasa beer tonight not to bad.  The air is very dry. 

Lined up today to see the Potala Palace sits pride of place in Lhasa on top of a hill. It was built in the ‘7th’ century. But reconstructed in the ’17th’ century by the 5th Dalai Lama. It’s 13 stories high with 999 rooms.  So many people coming to see the inside. So many stairs to climb outside and inside. To see the rooms with the stupas built for past Dalai Lamas was something to see. The biggest being for the 5th Dalai Lama it was 7 m tall with 3000 kg of gold with precious gems all over it.  Inside the Potala, you just wonder how it was constructed. We went through many rooms where the Dalai would sit for meditation or meeting with monks and so forth. No photos allowed. So all committed to  memory. The weird thing was you get a ticket and you are only allowed 15mins inside the White Palace and Red Palace so it was like speed touring which suits us fine.  Every room you went in was filled with scripts to the ceiling and there would be at least 2 or 3 monks reading aloud scripts. They never looked up or smiled as people would file past and place money on the statue they wished to worship. There was so much money in bags and boxes tucked into little places. There was Money just every where. That was in all the monasteries.  We also did a quick visit to  Sera Monastery  to see monks debating it was really strange. It was one monk sitting and the other was giving him a lecture. Many monks were doing this and we were allowed to take pictures.  As we were filing through to see more buddhas we all lined up around this place that you get a blessing you had to bend down and the monk would slap your ass.  I was just laughing and this monk was laughing too. Then he wanted me to do this head down into this place and got my ass smacked. Tony skipped that. That was the first time that I got a smile out of monk. They seem all so serious and devoted to what they are doing they don’t look up.

We also went to a nunnery small but we witnessed the nuns praying nearly like singing. It was a beautiful sound. Got a smile out of them. Our guide left us. To find our way back through narrow streets that all look the same. But we found someone that spoke a little English and we were going in the right general direction, thank goodness.

We have noticed a huge military presence and police presence everywhere. Swat cars, fully armed cars.  Tanks driving down the street today.  Riot police all fully armed.  Doesn’t make me feel safe but intimidated more.  Or is this how China shows strength with all this. Don’t take a photo  or you will be a whole lot of trouble, we were told.

I think we are done with Monasteries for long time now, wait we are going to Bhutan in the next couple of days then we are totally done with Monasteries.

Back to Kathmandu tomorrow.

Back to the airport to fly to Bhutan. Boarded the plane and wouldn’t you know it we sitting next to an Aussie 5 degrees of seperation here. His name was Tyson and his beautiful wife Natasha and they were travelling with 3 children Baby O middle O big sister O. All their names started with O but I can’t quite remember them. Beautiful kids too and well travelled. Tyson kept us laughing the whole 90mins that fabulous Aussie sense of humour that he certainly hasn’t lost from living in London, now Milan with his family. He is a photographer and film maker. Took some awesome shots out of the window of Mt Everest it was very clear with blue skies.

Coming into the airport in Bhutan was something else turning left then right going through the mountains to the valley were the airport is Disembarking was something else too. The views to the mountains the airport that was so decorative too.

Met our guide for the next six days UT dressed in national costume and our driver Tashi as well, everyone was dressed in the same outfit. It was quite something. We are spending the next 3 nights in Thimpbu the capital of Bhutan about an hour drive along a windy road. The population of the whole Bhutan is only 700,000 people and the only income for the country is hydro electricity and tourism. The people receive free education and health care. T Bhutan also has an index called GNH (Gross National Happiness) which is Equitable and sustainable and social economical development. Preservation and promotion of the cultural, spiritual heritage. Conservation of the environment and good governance. It was so interesting the valleys the houses that looked all the same or even the apartment buildings that were only 6 stories high as that is all that is allowed. UT took us straight away to this enormous statue of Buddha on a hill facing east 54m tall made of solid bronze and gold surrounded by 36 angels all are holding a gift, it was something to see. They started to build in 2006 and finished in 2015 costing a $100m sponsored by a Singaporean. Housing 250,000 small gold buddhas that people donate . It was said that two ancient prophecies from the 8th & 12th centuries stated that a large Buddha would be built in the region to bless the world with peace and happiness .

We also have seen the past day is archery, the national sport. Now that is some skill. A team 9-11 with 2 arrows each shoot a distance of 150m to a really small target. Occasionally it would hit the target and the opposing team would do this little dance and sing when the other team hit the target. I think it was about intimidation to each team. Also darts and beer not what we think of as darts and beer the same sort of game as archery but with darts and a smaller target. Sometimes they would stand in front of the target to put the opposite team off. Scary stuff.

Also we have noticed a lot of phallus handicrafts stores as well. They are hanging off the houses too. Apparently it is token you hang out to give the house a blessing for children to be born into the house and good luck.

We also have visited the fort which you are only allowed in for 30 mins after 5.30pm so many tourists line up. After the King has left the office and walked back to his palace we are allowed to have look in the courtyard area as well as the temple. No photos as usual but I did get a sneaky door way photo of the temple.

We also drove through the mountains to another Fort which is more impressive than the one in Thimpbu in Punakha another district. It is said that it is surrounded by a male and female river and sits right in the middle. It was very impressive the decoration of the building and its presence. These fortresses are used for administration as well as a monastery housing, teaching many monks. Also right next door is another palace for the king just one story like the one in Thimpbu so not over the top. He is the 5th king has been since 2008 from the age 28. Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck. He is from a long line of Wangchuks

We moved to the town of Paro about an hour from Thimpbu to a lovely hotel very traditional, very cosy. But first we are taken to a local house for lunch. Sitting on the floor first we are offered tea and biscuits. Then lunch is served we had potatoes and greens and asparagus as its asparagus season, red rice and a meat dish, which was made from dried beef and a very fatty pork. Tony said it was different and chilli. It was the best food we have had since being in Bhutan. After lunch we offered the local rice wine and actually it was quite good. Kind of tasted like sake. Tomorrow we hike to The Tigers Nest.

Up and early to be at the base at 8am for the hike up to Tiger Nest Monastery. Many tourist as our selves are attempting or doing the whole walk. I must say it was a hard walk the path aren’t exactly perfect but manageable. As well as ponies walking the lazy ones up to the cafe which has a wonderful view of the Monastery. Poor ponies. We did the up in 2 hours that’s 5.3 km up and 7,743 steps up or 89 floors. A bit of huffing and puffing going on but a beautiful walk. Especially when you get those glimpses of the Monastery just beautiful. Seeing the Monastery up close and the small meditation building wedged in the rocks The lions Cave. You can’t but wonder how did they build these buildings. Carrying it all up a piece at a time. Which UT told us that the Monastery burnt down in 1996 and one of the small temples survived. As there are 10 of them in the monastery .It was all rebuilt and finished by 2003 and as child he carried up a rock to monastery himself when the rebuild was going on. So he has this wonderful connection. Which we could see. So as usual no photos of the internals but it was pretty much the same as all the temples we have seen. We started our decent and it started too hail for a bit. Quite cold. So 2 hours back down . The knees were feeling it now.

So all up 15,487 Steps up. Which equals to walking up 178 floors. 10.6kms there and back. Pat on the back for us.

We have loved visiting all three counties no particular country had a stand out feature they all had their own special qualities and we admire them all. Will we come back to this area, I am not sure. Maybe a trek, we have talked about it. We will see.

Tomorrow we say goodbye and time for another adventure to begin in South Africa. Ticking off so many things on that bucket list. It has been amazing adventure so far. We have loved everyday, as everyday is a new adventure not two days are the same. So many memories on film and in our memory.