We are on the plane with all this baggage to Mexico City for just a couple of nights. We are staying at this hotel somewhere along the way near the centre of Mexico City. Nice hotel spacious and views to the city beyond. First night we just have dinner at the hotel very nice but that salsa they put on the table, whoa, that’s a bum burner. Burnt the roof of my mouth. Welcome to the land of salsa and chilli it has been a while. We love chilli so just have to get use to all this heat that smacks you in the face again.
We have booked into a guided city tour that includes art, food and markets. That was recommend by the New York Times. It part of the intrepid group locals tours. urbanadventrues.com
We got a ride uptown to the central part of Mexico City. OMG… the traffic is so full on, bumper to bumper so many people. People selling things to you as you are stranded in the snail trail that is the traffic creeping in the direction we all seem to be going. The things they try and sell is strange, t-towels just incase you had a thought I didn’t get them down at the shops I will get them in the traffic jam. Toys for the kids. Ice creams. Car accessories its like on-line shopping its all passing you as it goes by just have to push the button to buy. Here you just have to wave your hand out the window. You can get your window screen cleaned and probably can get a whole car cleaned just waiting in the traffic. Or a quick vac ?? Now thats idea people with those little portable vacs.
We are meeting our guide Ernie at the Franz Mayer Museum . We have a two other tourists with us a lady from LA and a Lady who is a photographer from Boston. Nice people. We head inside to check the collection that was amassed by Franz very impressive I must say so many religious artefacts so much gold and more gold and another impressive collection of ceramics and furniture. What is very interesting that were this museum is which is in the central Historic area of Mexico City the ground has sunk maybe by nearly 2m so the church at either end of the little plaza we are in has a lean on it to rival the leaning tower of Pisa. All very interesting.
What we found fascinating that as you walk around the street on the ground you notice a group of 4 large green arrows. Now Ernie in forms us that these are meeting spots if an earth quake happens. To get information and directions on what to do and where to go. These arrows aren’t in an open area either, some where under the balconies on the footpaths. So we are thinking isn’t that dangerous what happens if the building stays spitting out debris and starts crumbling aren’t the people right underneath. Crazy thinking. Maybe they could be out in an open area like a park or in the middle of the road or intersection. Mexican thinking 101 there.
After we walk through the park to what we thought we were going to see is Carla Fernandez clothing workshop she has the reputation in Mexico City supporting the locals in their craft and it reflects that in her clothes. Well, that was closed due to renovations so disappointment number one. We have lunch at this funky cafe underneath her workshop but guess what not a touch of Mexican food quiche and salad ,mmmmm……first day in Mexico and we are eating quiche and salad. Disappointment number 2.
Then the next interesting event was that we catch the local bus to the next destination of Roma. We get the ticket and wait on the platform but these buses are packed tighter than can of sardines on a hot day. We board and whoa, omg I am not a fan of this I would rather walk and you know we probably could have walked faster than this sardine packed smelly bus. Is that an experience I need? probably not but its been ticked off the list of needed and things to do and experience.
We arrive at the trendy area of Roma its a very prone area to earth quakes. But it has become the trendiest area the home prices are up and for some reason everyone wants to live here. Its is leafy I do give it that. The restaurants and shops look like trend setters paradise.
We go in search of this place that a movie was filmed in Roma called “La Roma” one of the ladies in our group had seen the movie was determined to see a where it was filmed. Tick we saw, she took the photo we can move on to the another spot on the list, to visit a community garden. You can watch it on Netflix if you so desire too. The community garden was okay not sure why we are here but it wasn’t market day at all so a little less interesting. We also had a stop at a mercado an apparent bustling market, well it was ok. To have some ice cream from a Cuban molecular biologist. Not that good either. Next stop as we wonder around the trendy area we are on our way to a bar to make a avocado cocktail made with mezcal. Sounds super strange to say the least. The bar is great like being in someone’s back yard, trees and packing crates creating the space, very trendy really. Believe it or not it was a good cocktail we all made our individual drinks it was a bit of fun too. After we downed our cocktails it was off to a restaurant to have oysters and a glass of vino. So through the whole day we haven’t indulged in any Mexican food only Mezcal. So as we tried the local oysters and Mexican Rose. But that doesn’t say Mexican food to me. We never went had the churros but we all have had them before we voted against that and we never went to another artists place to see his craft either David Pompa. I think they need to update their website on what actually does happen on a tour and that it can change without any warning. I mean it was good afternoon but it could have been better seeing what was on the actual schedule.
mezcal heaven
The others left to meet up with friends we stayed had some more wine and some snacks. We catch an uber back to the hotel after grappling with the traffic at least our uber driver tried to get us there the quickest and least painful way.
Today we are flying the quick trip to Puerto Escondido about an hour flight south from Mexico City we are coming to stay with Chris at his resort, Sunsetpoint I don’t want to say what I think because it will offend. All I can say its very basic our room but its very cheap for the month, I must say. Its more like a single man’s place were they come and drink and basically smoke dope all day especially the guy in the room next to us. For god sake passive smoking 101 but we can’t move as Chris had promised other rooms to his regular guests that come every year for many years. So we are stuck. I might sound a little precious here but I have a standard and this whole month has dropped below par of the whole year. Sorry Chris. So we have come up with a plan to go somewhere 2 nights out of the 7 days a week. The week between xmas and new years is impossible all booked out and its so expensive.
First week we went to Oaxaca (wha huk arr) a 6 hour drive through the mountains and its one extremely long and windy road. Along the main roads they have speed humps which they call reductors. About every couple of kilometres we have this reductor they definitely slow the traffic down no speeding. But sometimes they catch you unawares. It was one all mighty drive through this long and winding road. I think that’s a song by the Beatles . It played in our minds and we drove up through the tropical landscape then all of a sudden we are at the next bend and it’s in a dry pine forest with a village hanging on by its stilts. Also you drive through magic mushroom town. Where you can divulge in the mind altering not so tasty morsels. Then we go down to barren rocky landscape on our way to Oaxaca. Like most cities we travels to its not the outskirts of the city that draw you there it’s the historical centre that is the beautiful area usually right in the middle.
We have booked into a hotel that was once a jail, a convent and a school which in hindsight are all of the same things but in different forms. It was a beautiful building from the outside you weren’t told any of its story but its when you step inside the inner courtyard and massive meeting hall that you could see its beauty. We had a fantastic dinner that night at a hotel just up from our hotel called Oaxaca Hotel. We stepped inside to this beautiful modern decor and was taken upstairs to the roof terrace. The food was outstanding the service was unbelievable . They even made salsa at our table to our liking. We are given a lovely warm poncho as it was a little chilly in the evening . It was a hi-light of the whole day just being somewhere so beautiful and eating delicious food. Walking around Oaxaca the buildings are wonderful the Santa Domingo church was very golden. Xmas decoration up everywhere a giant xmas tree. It felt very safe just wondering around . The art seen was incredible also. It was a short and very sweet visit.
On our way back along the long and winding road we tried to buy some local black pottery big fail, not open. So then we headed towards a place called Tulle apparently has this 2000 year old tree we didn’t even get out the car it was a really, moment. So we continued onto another town called Ocotlan markets well the market was certainly in action but we couldn’t find a park so there went that chance to buy a small piece of black pottery, dam it. Plus a wonder around the local market. The stars weren’t lining up at all.
Let’s drive to one more destination Monte Alban a mesoamerica world heritage site. The city was occupied form 500BC to 750AD it had several building periods over the 1000 years. It was great to see this ancient city.
Back to Puerto Escondido we go through very foggy landscape and its scary being so dark and windy but we made it back and headed down to La Punta which is about a 10 min walk from Sunset Point. Its were the surf is, off the point. Not really happening while we are here wrong time of the year. But in October its the the pipeline of Mexico. Crashing hard onto the sandy beach. They have a small enclave of restaurants at la Punta one was a Thai restaurant it was pretty good the food the beers was tasty not sure about the Mezcal we given 3 shots for free, omg that was a kick in the head . No more Mezcal for me headache material.
We have gone to few good beaches while we are here one was about an hour up north from here Roca Blanca (white rock) beautiful beach no-one around fish restaurants set up along the beach. Had some freshly caught fish, yum. We will come back. Also we have headed down to Playa San Augustin which is about an hour too from here south. A small town with Mazunte on one side. We are decided again to have a few nights down there . So beautiful and quiet, not many people around. It had the vibe of an old hippy town.The place we stayed at on the cliff face was really nice with an infinity pool. We walked in to Mazunte along the road not many cars or people the restaurants aren’t busy. Very super relaxed. I don’t think it would have same vibe now as its crazy xmas new years period.
Generally the last month has been super relaxing going to beach swimming in the warm but refreshing water in the morning staying out of the sun in the heat of the day reading and even painting and repeat. Visting the supermarket that is an experience either it’s there or it’s not. The choice isn’t very broad. We usually buy our fresh food from a little market down the road super cheap and fresh. Fresh fish comes every few days by a guy on bike . The tuna is really good. The empanadas man comes by too for a few pesos they are tasty little morsels also. It has been awesome to see Chris after nearly 30 years when he left Adelaide back in the 90’s. Meeting his partner and daughter.
Yesterday we went to celebrate my birthday at this restaurant called Espadin had the best views of the coast over the bay of Carrizalillo where it was packed to the sand grains on the beach. The view was awesome the food was very strange. Just keep it simple people. That was that day. Today is New Year Eve not sure what this day and night will bring.. We will have a few cheers to celebrate nearly a year on this journey of ours we have 4 weeks to go. Before catch the big flight home. One more stop being Costa Rica. So looking forward to that new adventure.
We wish everyone a very happy New Year of 2020 the start of a new decade.
While our hearts are very sad for all the bushfires that ravage our country.
tonyandsharon 