Here we are 30 days out from leaving on the trip of a life time. The itinerary is set pretty much. We are excited and have butterflies all at the same time. Still have things to do but the list is shorter, Phew… Cause I think my brain might explode soon with all the details.
Jan- 2019 New Zealand
Feb- Bali
Feb-March Bike ride with grasshopper Thailand-Cambodia-Vietnam
March -April- Andaman Islands, Sri Lanka, Maldives
April- Nepal-Tibet-Bhutan
May- South Africa, Madagascar, Mauritius
June- Cairo, Jordan, Israel
July, August, September – Italy, Greece, Spain, Paris
We left Chris watching the American football apparently he has grown to love. All we can say is, let’s start this next and final journey. Costa Rica.
We are flying to San Jose,Costa Rica . But first an overnight in the Hilton at Mexico City airport hotel mmm…..another one that you think, this should be good. All it is, is convenient . We are up early the next morning to line up with all the other punters and there are many, this is a very busy airport to check in to San Jose, Costa Rica. As the line slowly doodles towards the ones of power the check-in people . Then comes the what the, moment they are charging us for being over weight by 3 kgs on our carry-on. Now we have used Interjet on many flights and not once have they weighed our carry on. So the little rip off merchants charged us $30US that $10 US per kilo, far out. What do you do ? you have no choice and you pay. Well lets go and find the gate and wait and wait until the gate comes up for departure. So we are 30mins before departure time no gate, maybe no plane. No staff around to ask they have done a runner. Interjet is the winner airline this year. We started having a chat with a bloke who was going on the same plane first time too using Interjet. So he was a seasoned traveller by the stories he was deluging to us. He could speak Spanish a lot more than us and found out which gate. Your the man. We walk like we need the loo desperately to this gate then not much was happening. So we wait and we wait and we wait then adventurely we see some movement up front. The old and frail and children are boarding this plane that is a good sign, thank god. Its 3 hours a wonderful flying to San Jose.
We get off then we are met by a guy that directs us through customs the locals cue. Bam, we are through in minutes. Thanks guy in hi-vis you made our day. Collect our numerous bags and we are driven over to the domestic airport to get on the most teeny weeny plane I have ever seen or been in. There is only 4 seats and one for the pilot and co-pilot or passenger and 4 seats behind if you were a leprechaun. We are 90 mins behind schedule. What can we do nothing just smile and say sorry. We are flying to Limon a 35min flight on the Carribean side of Costa Rica. The fight over is very scenic and such green lush landscape. Noisy though but the other alternative was 5-7 hour drive. So we opted for the I think I am super important mode of transport.It was the best option by far. We are met at Limon tiny airport on the oceans edge. It was like another experience like no other. The guy siting at a desk outside takes our passports writes it down on this scrap piece of paper asks Carlos our pilot some details and bam you can leave. Gracias. We in for another hours drive south to Puerto Viejo the roads are good our driver was excellent. I think he was so over waiting for us as by then we are 2 hours late arriving. Then we have arrived at Aguas Claras that is name of the second to last hotel of this massive 13 months away. Its’ beautiful the buildings so Carribean. White with large verandahs, the colour. We have arrived and we are both happy puppies well as happy as a pig in shit.
Our room is gorgeous our bathroom has a door and walls. You appreciate the small stuff. The verandah is so good we have a couch. Oh my so god. I am sounding like some bitch here but I am not a backpacker traveller I like creature comforts and it was lacking. So no more on that. Finished
So here we are for 10 days surrounded by jungle with Carribean sea to swim in. Loving it already. The staff are just lovely. Food is delicious. The cocktails are fabo. The bed is like sleeping on a cloud. The shower is just amazing the decor I want to take it home. They have bikes to go for a ride. So yesterday we rode in to the town of Tamanaca about 5kms of flat and oh so easy ride. It was beautiful sunny day. Found a shop called Roam surf shop. We have been deprived badly. No shops in Puerto Escondido that was worthy of a visit.Tony wanted board shorts no chance of that there. So if anybody was looking to open a good shop with good surfboards and surf clothing there is definitely an opening thats for sure. We went in like kids in a candy store to excited. Its been months since we have been shopping to replace some worn out can’t wear this any more I need some new things shop. Tony was smiling. I bought a small item because I couldn’t let him have all the pleasure. So after the most exhilarating experience in a shop we left and got on the deadly treadly and headed back to heaven for a swim and beautiful walk on the beach. That is only day 2, day 3 its raining and that is why I am writing today. We have yet to visit the Sloth sanctuary just up the road but the rain has been very constant today and tomorrow everyday.
Today we visited the wonderful volunteers at the Jaguar Rescue Sanctuary. The ticket is $20US but that is like a donation to the most wonderful work these volunteers do. We had Max very interesting individual with a great way of providing us with the information of the work they do. We saw the area were the sloths are on their finals stage of getting well or being educated to survive on their own as some are orphaned so no mother to teach them.. They are just adorable to watch their slow movements. Costa Rica has bought in a law that you aren’t allowed to take selfies with any of the animals that live in their beautiful country . To eliminate the terrible trade of the suffering of these creatures at the hands of us humans that don’t feed them right tie them up just to make a buck. Just horrid. They the police seize animals that are pets so the cute little baby monkey that was making them bucks is now is ripping their house apart. So these creatures need to be re-educated too about living in a group the family and hierarchy of it all. When I heard of this law I thought other countries should adopt such a practice. Where we have just come from Peru where the ladies and girls walk around with baby lamas in Cusco to get a tourist to take a photo holding the baby lama for money. I am guilty as the light of day, I did do this. But after I thought what about the mother of that baby isn’t she pining for her baby to feed and nuture. The carers of the baby lamas had milk with them and they fed them. Had them wrapped up in their shawls. But that doesn’t take away the fact they have taken a few day old lama aways from its mother. I could rant and rave about this practice with many different species of animals that are used for the only purpose is to get the “gram” photo. That is where social media has gone to far in the wrong direction.
After that we rode the deadly treadles to lunch, it was a nice day. Feeling very positive about people and their caring of the animals in this world. How good is riding a bike with the wind in your hair so made us feel like the old days. When helmets was not a compulsory item attached to your head. The traffic is very mindful of the bikes and goes slow or wide. You can feel the vibe of Pura Vida here. Take life slow and keep it simple basically. Great saying they have adopted. Love it….
Most night it rains, no it pours, so much rain. The surf is certainly up huge waves that are over 3m out front with a huge tides so we got on our favourite mode of transport and explore the coast to take some photos and watched some surfers out. In that surf is some floating logs and reefs everywhere. The swell is every which way.
Days pass with reading and just enjoying the jungle and with surprises of birds might land in our little patch of greenness . One day we had a flock of toucans so amazing so colourful so lucky too.
Our 10 days pasted with a blink. It is so strange how you think 10 days what shall we do but the time passes the days click over and you are at the end of the a beautiful stay on the lush and very green coast of Puerto Viejo.
We are heading now to our final and very last stop Saint Teresa on the pacific coast. So back to San Jose airport on a slightly larger plane its such a quick flight to catch another plane over to Tambour which is only 25mins in a plane. We are picked up at this small but busy little airport. Driven an hour or so to the coast where we have our last and final hotel. Latitude 10. Its on the beach we can see and hear the ocean .We have howler monkeys in the trees a few iguanas a boa constrictor snake that hangs up very high in the tree. Thank-goodness. The weather is completely different to the Caribbean side and the landscape too. Here it is dry and hot on the Carribean side is damp and hot. Most of our clothes when we opened the bag where damp so its nice to dry everything out. Our Birkenstocks had some mould growing on them as that cork base was like a sponge to all that moisture.
The beach is lovely just a short walk left of our hotel we can swim in the warm water of the pacific ocean .There is a fabulous beach restaurant La Rocca were you can get your fix of kale and green smoothies. All things green to feel healthy wealthy and wise. Plus watch the beauties parade pass. winking emoji insert here.
hammock life
We used the hotels bikes one day to see the small town of Saint Teresa which was about 5kms on a gravelled road. So, so dusty most of the people using the ATV’s to get around on had bandannas or face masks on the dust is just full on.
We did find this great shop as we were looking for a gift or two to take home something small but original. We found #designbysig she made handmade jewellery not like expensive but more creative costume jewellery. We spent some time in her shop apart form it was air conditioned. She had this great frankness on life which had us laughing all of the time we decided what to choose and it was hard everything was as good as the next. We decided I hope the recipients like it.
We feel like now we are just filling in time here not that interested in much other than just getting home. So reading several books has been on the agenda.
When we said yes to this trip the planning took a year to sort out a few things and get organised. Like a plan of where to go and how. It was always follow the sun, that was a given. Then we think if we didn’t meet our inspirations in India this trip would have never happened at all. The thought would have never ever crossed our minds. So we have a lot to thank Mark & Jim for being the Inspiration.
We had some challenges that year before we left Tony’s mum passed away suddenly in January. Tony’s dad was on his own at 93 and he was very sad he had lost his wife and best friend so suddenly he was lost. Then in October just before his 94th birthday he suddenly passed away too. Having to deal with all that loss and family being family when there is loss in the family can bring out some very strange attributes to their personality too.
Leaving our boys and their wonderful partners, our puppies. Missing Tyron & Marley’s engagement party during the year. They are saying ‘I do’ 6 weeks after our return. So that will be full of love and joy to look forward to.
Finding out that our beautiful dog Milo who is 11 years old has cancer so at least we will have some time with her before the cancer takes hold.
Milo our labradoodleWillow her much younger sister a labradoodle as well
Finding out one of dear friends we have known well since we were very young has cancer. That makes our heart break as he is our age well, a little younger. We hear now that he only has weeks left. Hang in there mate we are coming to see you as soon as we return.
Finding out also that a couple you have known since we were both very young have decided to go seperate ways. We wish we were there for them.
All these events happened in a year that you have no control over. But you want to be there to support and hug the one who is going through the bad and hug the ones that are starting and celebrating a new life together. But it’s hard to be everywhere.
The whole year it has been so amazing the places we have seen the people we have met that can’t believe what we are doing . We hope that we have inspired them to do their #parentalgapyear. When we look back I think, did we really do that. Did we really ride that path and climb that mountain. Everyday wasn’t the same. It was an adventure of the unknown of what you would find each day. Who you would meet. What delicious food you might be tasting. Its on the verge of being all over. What an amazing adventure. We loved every moment and we can hang together 24/7. Life is good no problem we are the best of friends and travel with the same mind set and sense of adventure. Always on the same page.
We loved the moments when we met our friends overseas and family that was so much fun and what beautiful moments that will stay in our hearts forever.
When we get home next week we are having a “Missed you guys party” because why not, the jet lag will be lingering still I imagine so we can party all night. Hahaaaa….. we do love a party as any of our friends at home will know. I just need to give them a hug all at once.
Then on my last and final thought the things we took with us that were essentials and couldn’t go without and glad we had them:
#skyroam our portable wifi has been the best. Some countries it didn’t work in but pretty well worked in most of them. All 28 or so we visited. I just felt better that I had some wifi straight away when leaving an airport so I knew where we are going and not being taken on a joy ride.
Our Osprey bags have been fantastic we left with 16 and 18kgs and we have 20 & 23kgs now but they have fitted into the need of a soft travel bag when required on some flights. Plus there is a life time warranty on them so if they rip they can be fixed as mine has so that will be repaired when we get home.
My Cannon SLR camera you a weighty thing to lug around but you take the stunning photos I am glad I had you.
Our swell water bottles double insulted they are the best. We had a little water probe as well to serialise the water used that a few times.
Our medical kit of antibiotics that we have used all of, super glad we had that.
Of course our MacBook Air some might travel with an iPad but this is so much better for downloading the photos editing and just watching Netflix .
I think that is it. We never lost anything along the way but we did have my Bose noise cancelling heads phones stolen in Cuba. What do you do they are gone. That’s ok you can have them. You sneak…..
We did send home things extra clothing that was no longer needed. We have packages at home of art we have purchased along the way. It will be like Christmas. All the little things we have bought. It will be fun.
My last and final little input to this amazing adventure and blog will be after we get home. The reaction of our puppies, do they still recognise us. Our fun gathering at home and seeing our handsome boys and partners. So stay tuned.
Till then, thanks for reading my take on this adventure. I am not a writer I am story teller so my grammar is never perfect its what I think and what my fingers type. So it’s never perfect by any shape or form. I may not have dotted the ‘I”s or crossed at the ‘T”s but I tried.
We are on the plane with all this baggage to Mexico City for just a couple of nights. We are staying at this hotel somewhere along the way near the centre of Mexico City. Nice hotel spacious and views to the city beyond. First night we just have dinner at the hotel very nice but that salsa they put on the table, whoa, that’s a bum burner. Burnt the roof of my mouth. Welcome to the land of salsa and chilli it has been a while. We love chilli so just have to get use to all this heat that smacks you in the face again.
We have booked into a guided city tour that includes art, food and markets. That was recommend by the New York Times. It part of the intrepid group locals tours. urbanadventrues.com
We got a ride uptown to the central part of Mexico City. OMG… the traffic is so full on, bumper to bumper so many people. People selling things to you as you are stranded in the snail trail that is the traffic creeping in the direction we all seem to be going. The things they try and sell is strange, t-towels just incase you had a thought I didn’t get them down at the shops I will get them in the traffic jam. Toys for the kids. Ice creams. Car accessories its like on-line shopping its all passing you as it goes by just have to push the button to buy. Here you just have to wave your hand out the window. You can get your window screen cleaned and probably can get a whole car cleaned just waiting in the traffic. Or a quick vac ?? Now thats idea people with those little portable vacs.
We are meeting our guide Ernie at the Franz Mayer Museum . We have a two other tourists with us a lady from LA and a Lady who is a photographer from Boston. Nice people. We head inside to check the collection that was amassed by Franz very impressive I must say so many religious artefacts so much gold and more gold and another impressive collection of ceramics and furniture. What is very interesting that were this museum is which is in the central Historic area of Mexico City the ground has sunk maybe by nearly 2m so the church at either end of the little plaza we are in has a lean on it to rival the leaning tower of Pisa. All very interesting.
What we found fascinating that as you walk around the street on the ground you notice a group of 4 large green arrows. Now Ernie in forms us that these are meeting spots if an earth quake happens. To get information and directions on what to do and where to go. These arrows aren’t in an open area either, some where under the balconies on the footpaths. So we are thinking isn’t that dangerous what happens if the building stays spitting out debris and starts crumbling aren’t the people right underneath. Crazy thinking. Maybe they could be out in an open area like a park or in the middle of the road or intersection. Mexican thinking 101 there.
After we walk through the park to what we thought we were going to see is Carla Fernandez clothing workshop she has the reputation in Mexico City supporting the locals in their craft and it reflects that in her clothes. Well, that was closed due to renovations so disappointment number one. We have lunch at this funky cafe underneath her workshop but guess what not a touch of Mexican food quiche and salad ,mmmmm……first day in Mexico and we are eating quiche and salad. Disappointment number 2.
Then the next interesting event was that we catch the local bus to the next destination of Roma. We get the ticket and wait on the platform but these buses are packed tighter than can of sardines on a hot day. We board and whoa, omg I am not a fan of this I would rather walk and you know we probably could have walked faster than this sardine packed smelly bus. Is that an experience I need? probably not but its been ticked off the list of needed and things to do and experience.
We arrive at the trendy area of Roma its a very prone area to earth quakes. But it has become the trendiest area the home prices are up and for some reason everyone wants to live here. Its is leafy I do give it that. The restaurants and shops look like trend setters paradise.
We go in search of this place that a movie was filmed in Roma called “La Roma” one of the ladies in our group had seen the movie was determined to see a where it was filmed. Tick we saw, she took the photo we can move on to the another spot on the list, to visit a community garden. You can watch it on Netflix if you so desire too. The community garden was okay not sure why we are here but it wasn’t market day at all so a little less interesting. We also had a stop at a mercado an apparent bustling market, well it was ok. To have some ice cream from a Cuban molecular biologist. Not that good either. Next stop as we wonder around the trendy area we are on our way to a bar to make a avocado cocktail made with mezcal. Sounds super strange to say the least. The bar is great like being in someone’s back yard, trees and packing crates creating the space, very trendy really. Believe it or not it was a good cocktail we all made our individual drinks it was a bit of fun too. After we downed our cocktails it was off to a restaurant to have oysters and a glass of vino. So through the whole day we haven’t indulged in any Mexican food only Mezcal. So as we tried the local oysters and Mexican Rose. But that doesn’t say Mexican food to me. We never went had the churros but we all have had them before we voted against that and we never went to another artists place to see his craft either David Pompa. I think they need to update their website on what actually does happen on a tour and that it can change without any warning. I mean it was good afternoon but it could have been better seeing what was on the actual schedule.
mezcal heaven
Avocado cocktails and mezcal heaven
The others left to meet up with friends we stayed had some more wine and some snacks. We catch an uber back to the hotel after grappling with the traffic at least our uber driver tried to get us there the quickest and least painful way.
Today we are flying the quick trip to Puerto Escondido about an hour flight south from Mexico City we are coming to stay with Chris at his resort, Sunsetpoint I don’t want to say what I think because it will offend. All I can say its very basic our room but its very cheap for the month, I must say. Its more like a single man’s place were they come and drink and basically smoke dope all day especially the guy in the room next to us. For god sake passive smoking 101 but we can’t move as Chris had promised other rooms to his regular guests that come every year for many years. So we are stuck. I might sound a little precious here but I have a standard and this whole month has dropped below par of the whole year. Sorry Chris. So we have come up with a plan to go somewhere 2 nights out of the 7 days a week. The week between xmas and new years is impossible all booked out and its so expensive.
First week we went to Oaxaca (wha huk arr) a 6 hour drive through the mountains and its one extremely long and windy road. Along the main roads they have speed humps which they call reductors. About every couple of kilometres we have this reductor they definitely slow the traffic down no speeding. But sometimes they catch you unawares. It was one all mighty drive through this long and winding road. I think that’s a song by the Beatles . It played in our minds and we drove up through the tropical landscape then all of a sudden we are at the next bend and it’s in a dry pine forest with a village hanging on by its stilts. Also you drive through magic mushroom town. Where you can divulge in the mind altering not so tasty morsels. Then we go down to barren rocky landscape on our way to Oaxaca. Like most cities we travels to its not the outskirts of the city that draw you there it’s the historical centre that is the beautiful area usually right in the middle.
We have booked into a hotel that was once a jail, a convent and a school which in hindsight are all of the same things but in different forms. It was a beautiful building from the outside you weren’t told any of its story but its when you step inside the inner courtyard and massive meeting hall that you could see its beauty. We had a fantastic dinner that night at a hotel just up from our hotel called Oaxaca Hotel. We stepped inside to this beautiful modern decor and was taken upstairs to the roof terrace. The food was outstanding the service was unbelievable . They even made salsa at our table to our liking. We are given a lovely warm poncho as it was a little chilly in the evening . It was a hi-light of the whole day just being somewhere so beautiful and eating delicious food. Walking around Oaxaca the buildings are wonderful the Santa Domingo church was very golden. Xmas decoration up everywhere a giant xmas tree. It felt very safe just wondering around . The art seen was incredible also. It was a short and very sweet visit.
On our way back along the long and winding road we tried to buy some local black pottery big fail, not open. So then we headed towards a place called Tulle apparently has this 2000 year old tree we didn’t even get out the car it was a really, moment. So we continued onto another town called Ocotlan markets well the market was certainly in action but we couldn’t find a park so there went that chance to buy a small piece of black pottery, dam it. Plus a wonder around the local market. The stars weren’t lining up at all.
Let’s drive to one more destination Monte Alban a mesoamerica world heritage site. The city was occupied form 500BC to 750AD it had several building periods over the 1000 years. It was great to see this ancient city.
Back to Puerto Escondido we go through very foggy landscape and its scary being so dark and windy but we made it back and headed down to La Punta which is about a 10 min walk from Sunset Point. Its were the surf is, off the point. Not really happening while we are here wrong time of the year. But in October its the the pipeline of Mexico. Crashing hard onto the sandy beach. They have a small enclave of restaurants at la Punta one was a Thai restaurant it was pretty good the food the beers was tasty not sure about the Mezcal we given 3 shots for free, omg that was a kick in the head . No more Mezcal for me headache material.
We have gone to few good beaches while we are here one was about an hour up north from here Roca Blanca (white rock) beautiful beach no-one around fish restaurants set up along the beach. Had some freshly caught fish, yum. We will come back. Also we have headed down to Playa San Augustin which is about an hour too from here south. A small town with Mazunte on one side. We are decided again to have a few nights down there . So beautiful and quiet, not many people around. It had the vibe of an old hippy town.The place we stayed at on the cliff face was really nice with an infinity pool. We walked in to Mazunte along the road not many cars or people the restaurants aren’t busy. Very super relaxed. I don’t think it would have same vibe now as its crazy xmas new years period.
Roca Blanco and playa la Augustin
Generally the last month has been super relaxing going to beach swimming in the warm but refreshing water in the morning staying out of the sun in the heat of the day reading and even painting and repeat. Visting the supermarket that is an experience either it’s there or it’s not. The choice isn’t very broad. We usually buy our fresh food from a little market down the road super cheap and fresh. Fresh fish comes every few days by a guy on bike . The tuna is really good. The empanadas man comes by too for a few pesos they are tasty little morsels also. It has been awesome to see Chris after nearly 30 years when he left Adelaide back in the 90’s. Meeting his partner and daughter.
Yesterday we went to celebrate my birthday at this restaurant called Espadin had the best views of the coast over the bay of Carrizalillo where it was packed to the sand grains on the beach. The view was awesome the food was very strange. Just keep it simple people. That was that day. Today is New Year Eve not sure what this day and night will bring.. We will have a few cheers to celebrate nearly a year on this journey of ours we have 4 weeks to go. Before catch the big flight home. One more stop being Costa Rica. So looking forward to that new adventure.
We wish everyone a very happy New Year of 2020 the start of a new decade.
While our hearts are very sad for all the bushfires that ravage our country.
I think I left my heart in Palm Springs. There was just something about that place that felt right. Maybe it was the architecture, I am not sure. But we did leave a little tiny bit of our heart in Palm Springs. We are driving to LA LAX its about a 2 hour drive from Palm Springs on so many different freeways that get us to returning the car and airport hotel.
Next morning up bright and early 5am we are flying to Cancun Mexico just for one night, another airport hotel. We are flying with Delta to Cancun actually a better airline than United I thought. The hostesses were great even the check in was friendly just felt like a better experience all round. It was a 5 hour flight too. Airport hotel is fine modern clean and has a pool. What more do you need for 18 hours. Next morning back up again 5am to get to the airport as we are flying to Cuba. Getting the visa was so simple a guy just standing at the line up to checkin, to easy. Unfortunately our luggage has grown from 3 to 5 we have had to buy clothing and shoes for Peru coming up in 8 days time. It takes up so much room all this required outdoorsy clothing. So we could only check in one bag each. Rest of bags comes on board but how come when you get to the door of the plane they can take your carry on for no cost and stow it in the hold. If you wanted to check it in it would have been US $55. Baffled by that but worked well in our favour anyway. It’s only an hour flight to Havana, Cuba.
We are met by our guide for the 10 days Carlos. We exchange some currency, Euro is better or Canadian dollar. We are staying in Casa Particular which in lay men terms is a house which has some rooms.They have a licence to rent out. Sometimes they live there sometimes not. The one we are staying in Havana is Bao Bao the lady doesn’t actually live there but has people who stays there the whole time ,unlocking the door and can be of assistance if you need. If you could speak Espanol. Which we know a few words to get us by. But not to have a conversation.
So here we are in Havana. Carlos fills us in and where to eat and points us in the general direction of the main square. We have the afternoon to wonder and generally get the feel of the place. And not get lost. Old Havana is generally a grid so not to bad. It kind of reminded us of Palermo in Italy a little with the buildings in disrepair and a mixture of the modern 5 star hotel popped in amongst the old and falling down. There is lots of scaffolding up as its the 500th birthday of the founding of Havana coming up in 16 days. So some buildings of character and significance and getting some paint splashed on them to brighten them up the most recent restoration is the Capitolio building it was modelled on the white house. This one has a gold on the dome part of the building. II does look amazing.
Capitolio Building Havna
Music is coming from any space that has a speaker its booming from the tiny spaces that are the locals homes. Bars everywhere one across form our place of where we are staying. Authentic 1950’s cars parked on the streets which are used for taxis or shared cars. Street art on the buildings. Buildings are looking in very bad disrepair too. We are staying in old Havana. We wonder up the street for lunch to a place on the corner that is quite popular on the square/piazza. We know that anything on a square will be a total rip off for us as tourists. But we eat there as we are enticed by the busy vibe of the place. They have fantastic things all over the walls and the music, the Cuban music it just fantastic. We are seated we order our first and by far of many mojito we consume like water. Cause its seems we can buy a mojito so much easier than water. Our first was a mojito with a beer in it, very usual but a speciality of the house. We order fish and salad and fries. Let’s just say I don’t think we will be eating fish at all again. It was very tough like they had cooked the bejesus out it, of course rice and beans unfortunately beans had pork in it. Coffee is great here in Cuba. That American stuff is so bad so over that filtered brown water. The square is alive with bands playing in every restaurant in the evening. It was once one band stopped for a second the next would take up that small silence that lingered for a moment. They are all so good. Everyone seems so talented and have a great singing voice.
mojito with a beer bit weird but also drinkable
We have a guided walk with Carlos the next day walking the streets looking at this and that. The age of that building there that church over there. Where Ernest Hemingway drank at at this bar. How the mojito was founded by the man in this bar all so very fascinating too but that man seemed to have got around the world and lived in hotels a lot,He did live in Havana for almost 30 years he also did buy a house after his wife of the time was not happy living in a hotel anymore. A place called Finca Vigia just out of Havana where he wrote most of his books. I am pretty sure we had a drink In Venice at a bar on the corner St Marks Square, where he would drink at a bar and write his poetry or books it was a Prosecco with peach drink. Not sure of the name it will come to me after I have written this. Back in the 1930’s the mafia had built a hotel on the water front Hotel Nationale. We saw where the revolution happened with Fidel Castro, Where he gave his speech . How the water front was defended. Back in the early days of pulling a chain across the harbour so no-one could enter. A cannon was fired at 9pm every night to let know that the chain was going up and it still does today not the chain but the cannon.
We have a little hour long tour around Havana in one of those huge American 1950’s convertible cars very much a tourist thing but had to be done and it’s was bloody hot. The sun pelting down cruising the streets. We also went to an African/Cuban neighbour hood where they play music and dance we are crowded into what seems someones back yard. We watch for a while as the music is played and a guy is dancing’s to the rhythms. All sounded fantastic but wow, hot and sweaty dripping down your brow and back we didn’t stay long.
We are leaving La Habana and heading to the Vinale’s is where they grow the tobacco for the world famous Cuban Cigars. We do go to a farm that grows the tobacco but wrong season the shed isn’t full of leaves and there is no crops in. It takes about 3 months to grow then you pick the leaves. Top leaves for the very best of best cigars then it goes down the scale in quality middle and final bottom leaves. We saw a guy roll a hand made cigar. We also got one to have a puff on. It was fun but what I did find interesting the cigars do not have any nicotine in them that part of the leaf is removed after the leaves have been matured in different flavours and spices. When the cigar rolling guy lit our cigar he dipped the end that you put in your mouth in honey. So we didn’t buy any not knowing if we could bring them back home. You could buy 14 for about 50cuc which is about $72 Aussie dollars about $5 each. The town we stayed in was nice had 2 really nice restaurants.
Vinales.
On to the next destination The Bay of Pigs on our way there we drive past Australia, I know your saying, what the!!!. The sugar mill was and is called Central Australia. Fidel Castro had a base there for some time apparently. We are staying in a small villages town type place, right on the beach we are thinking that should be good it reads well but no the water is reddy brown from the mangrove swaps that flank it either side. Not very inviting what so ever Tony did go for a dip but me, no way. The place we staying in has nice simple fish and crab dish but the most disturbing of the whole 24hours that we are there is the dogs. Bitches that are on heat and the male dogs yelping and growling and the getting stuck together in the act of mating then crying and whimpering. All too much for us we wanted to leave but we are stuck here.No pun intended.
We leave there thank goodness and are heading Cienfuegos Now it’s not short distances at all these destinations we are going. In our yellow taxi with Carlos. We arrive at the Casa Particular house of Garcia. Friendly man and very proud of his offerings of rooms etc but for us its a bit of an eye roll especially when the air conditioner is noisy and very old and it very hot at night. It’s only for one night. Suck it up sunshine, I tell myself. We are going for stroll around the streets .Very French influenced apparently can’t see it myself. It was founded in 1819. Dinner was close at an Italian influence restaurant it was tasty food I must say we did try the fish again as we are on the sea it was good with shrimp. So dinner was a winner.
Cienfuegos architecture.
Off we go again this time to Trinidad not far at all we arrive by lunch time but of course we need to do a stroll around town with the ever knowledgeable Carlos. Trinidad was founded 5 years before Havana in 1514 so it is another UNESCO world heritage site like old Havana. Very colourful buildings I must say the rich certainly was there at one stage going by some of buildings and roads are cobblestone. It’s so, so very hot here in Trinidad. Like everywhere. The buildings are all in good condition too. We did go into a store to get some water. There was nothing in there Pringles and rum no food at all, well real food. We did go to a store in Vinales and the same nothing in there the shelves are bare. We are told that everyone has a ration cards or slips and they get rice, beans, sugar and some spices with that. The rest I guess they buy on the black market. From just observing the young and fashionable they all seemed to the latest look about them with the mobile phones. Meals for them is usually black beans rice which are combined and meat mainly pork or another animal product. Vegetable eaten seasonally like the avocado season was coming to an end. Which is nothing wrong with that it is better to eat seasonally anyway.
Trinidad & Valley of Los Ingenios
Tony & I must have eaten something not so good we spent one day sleeping and feeling bad. We are thinking its the cheese. I had cheese in an omelette and Tony had a pizza on the same day. What is strange we had eaten a pizza in Havana and all was good not a problem.
We are heading back to Havana by the way of Santa Clara where Che Guevara is buried. By the way Che isn’t his name its a nick name like dood, mate, man. His memorial/museum is interesting to see. Here we are back in Havana one more night of mojito and music. As we are driving along the road that is beside the port we noticed an oil tanker there. Now the Trump administration has put an embargo on US ships used to carry oil here. They have used one from another country which increases the price of the petrol. Just like the planes will cease flying from Miami by the end of the year. So the Cubans living in America will have to come via Mexico which will cost so much more. Same with the cruise boats aren’t allowed to stop here. But we did see on cruise ship from Germany.
Then we have a huge flight to Lima to start a 20 day journey through Peru and Machu Picchu. But first a little luxury stop in Cancun. Back through customs was to funny. The customs officer standing there not even in any sort of uniform picks up my passport and starting playing with photo moving it around like its a toy of sorts and having a little giggle like a girl. So I laugh to and they say from Australia, kangaroo and the whole thing and start laughing. Gracias I say even that brings the house down, Welcome to Mexico.
Hola, Cancun some luxury after Cuba is needed for us both it might sound lame but we happen to be both really sick. With stomach problems that need time and tablets to eliminate the excessive visits to the loo. Need we say more. We are staying at this amazing resort Nizac very nice but very expensive to eat but you gotta eat don’t you, its a given part of the day. We have a room over looking the ocean the weather isn’t that good for par taking in beach activities either, raining and grey skies . Sleeping and getting better is our main aim of the next day. The room is gorgeous the shower is unreal and the bed is so so comfortable after staying in casa particulars were its is a little on the basic side . One place got bitten by bugs of some sort. The joys of travelling.
Nizac Hotel Cancun
Off to Lima a 5 hour very bumpy flight to Lima. We have a day or so in Lima we are staying Mireflores good spot. First on the agenda is stock up on some phamarcy items and some little bit and pieces at the supermarket . We walk to the waterfront well the cliff that over looks the Pacific Ocean we saw surfers out surfing small but constant waves. I think the water is very cold too. What we did notice walking around is how super clean Lima is the streets and swept to perfection. We saw public seats being scrubbed and just all looked so clean. In the afternoon we have a guided city tour to the old part of Lima the building have the influence of the French building you would see in Paris. The squares have very regal building surrounding them it all looked very impressive but when we got to the square were the parliamentary palace was it was cordinated off by riot police with all the gear on. We found out there was a protest and those guards didn’t want them coming anywhere near the palace and the official buildings in that square. All they were protesting about was more pay for workers that work in the public Hospital for god sake. They were moved on the another place where no one could hear them that should. They tried. Lima was a good city. But we are off to Puerto Maldando on the edge of the Amazon
surfing in Lima the main square and the ancient Inca temple in Lima.
Puerto Maldando took a while to get to as we our flight was via Cusco we couldn’t get off the plane so we wait nearly 2 hours waiting for the plane to repaired it seemed. As I saw some guy in hi-vis fixing something with some tape. Now thats a bit of worry. We landed finally and with some others we board a long boat and we off down the Amazon river to Hacienda Concepeion. Its an eco lodge. As we travelling down the Amazon river the current is very fast and large amounts of trees and branches float by but the driver of the boat navigates past these obstacles with great easy.
We finally arrive and met by the lovely staff and taken straight to the the main building were we eat our meals and the most importatanly the bar is. We are all starving as we left Lima at 6am and its now 3.30pm. The food is so good and a great choice the staff are very lovely. We meet after we are allocated our lovely little hut but the power is out is goes off for a few hours in the afternoon. Tonight we have a night adventure to look for caiman (alligator type creature) We did see a few but quiet small. But we saw that is the main thing. The weather in the evening is balmy as we are at the beginning of the rainy season. Dinner is so good and spoilt for choice too. Up early next morning 5am wake-up call. We are going down river to a lake to spot some creatures of the jungle. It has been absolutely pouring all night and when we wake it still is. Yeah….
We go down river about 20 mins to a staircase landing and start walking along a boardwalk to the lake about 4kms in the pouring rain. Then we get in canoes and our guide Hosta and 2 other couples Julie and Josephine form California and NYC state and David and Norma from Sydney. Sitting in the wet canoe seats is joyous so wet bum, now. We do spot some birds the Stinky birds and Caiman and some small bats and some other birds. Some Howler Monkeys too but cause its raining the animals hide and aren’t very active but even though it was raining it was a great morning to be had. After lunch after getting some dry clothes on we are off back up the river For an ariel walk in the canopy. 180m up wonderful views and walking across the sky bridges was fantastic and bouncy and such wonderful views, loved it. Back for dinner and happy hour. We also did a nature walk around the grounds of the eco lodge sea some critters. Another adventure was to a farm and another walk around the other side of the lodge and a paddle on the lake that is adjoins the lodge that mainly had stinky birds. We did see an Otto. For us its fantastic as that is not an animal we have in Australia. We also saw an Otto before at the lake a giant Otto it was so funny we could see it slip streaming under the water then it popped up right next to the canoe with this face that was smiling with these sharp pointy teeth it was hilarious would have been fabulous to capture a photo.
Our hot and steamy stay in jungle has come to an end. We loved having the howler monkeys in the trees the little critters that looked like guinea pigs on steroids roaming around. By the way those guinea pig looking animals the locals eat them.The beautiful tropical flowers. As its rainy season too the river had risen maybe a metre while were there for the 3 nights but over the whole rainy season the Amazon river will rise by 6-8 metres or even more. We are off to Cusco for 4 nights a short little 40 mins flight.
What a beautiful looking city Cusco is. Our hotel is amazing and we are given a suite . Thank-you very much. We went straight out and went for a walk around and came across the Plaza de Armas. But first warmer clothes are needed after hot and sweaty Amazon jungle. There are ladies dressed in the traditional costumes carrying baby llamas and little girls as well. You can take a photo with them and give them a few Sols (Peruvian money) of course I do they are so super cute the baby llamas. We have found some delicious food so fresh and tasty. Great vegetarian restaurants. Indian food too. Funky cafes that sell great coffee and cakes. Little things which have made there way into my bag. Just small things. wink, wink….
We have a city tour happening it was interesting taking us to some Inca sites and the view from the hill above were the White Christ is. Kinda a smaller version of the one in Rio. We also went to some museums etc all very interesting hearing how the Spanish came to Peru. Mainly it was rape and pillage and convert . The woman the gold and the people.
We also had a tour to the Scared Valley first we went to the highest point Chinchero at 3700m it was great village where all the houses are made from mud bricks. The had the best market with all the ladies selling their wares it was so colourful and lively could have bought a few things that is for sure. You could see the snow capped mountain of the Andes mountain range so very stunning. We also went to Ollantaytambo to see the Inca terraces and where they started building a sun worshipping temple but never finished as the Spanish arrived on the scene. They also have these walls that are made of stone that are so perfect it is wonder how this was made. all very fascinating. It was great day with our guide all very interesting and the information was just enough not bordering on over information. We met our guide last night for the 4 night 3 day hike up to Machu Picchu. We can only take up 5kgs in a bag that we are given to fill with warm clothes etc the porters carry 25kg each that is a substantial weight to carry each.There is 6 adventures in our group and 8 porters. We start early tomorrow morning it sounds like a lot of hard work. On day also we are going up to the highest. point of 4200m. Dead Woman’s Pass but the hi-light will be seeing Machu Picchu early in the morning so keep the eye on the prize.
Well, we are up early and are picked up for the two hour drive to Ollantaytambo were we start our 4 day 3 night trek on the Inca Trail at the 82km mark. In our group is only the 6 of us we have Andreea & Tristan from the UK also Trevor & Lee-anne from Australia. We have Freddie our guide. A chef a Sous Chef and the other porters take the camping equipment, food and what else is needed, 8 in total.
We walk and walk along a river, its hot the first day. We walk up the valley where to our surprise a site has been all set up.A dining tent with a table cloth and cutlery and chairs. A cooking tent. Where you wouldn’t believe a 3 course meal is being prepared. We have warm water to wash our hands one for each person. A toilet tent as well. So the bush toilet doesn’t seem that necessary . We have first glamorous lunch it’s very tasty. Every meal a soup is made as the Pervians are big on soup. Lunch is an appetiser then soup then an another dish with coca tea to finish. So with full bellies we keep walking to our camp site for the night. We have bought walking sticks but haven’t felt the need to use them yet. We arrive at a beautiful spot in a village for our first night. We haven’t really been going up yet, just following the river we do come across one of the many Inca ruins and terraces they are just amazing. It does start raining and its cold. Each night when we arrive a the campsite the tents are set up the kitchen tent is set up and dinner is cooking. The dining tent is set up too. We would usually arrive around 4pm and by 5pm afternoon snack had been prepared with tea. Dinner would be at 6.30pm another 3 course dinner with desert. We are tucked up in bed by 7.30pm totally exhausted.
Next morning we are woken at 5.30am with a warm cup of coca tea bought to our tent as well as warm water to have a freshen up. Breakfast is usually quinoa porridge and either omelette or some other treat that the chefs is making. This was like this every morning. When it was raining and pouring still bought to our tents with some warm water.
Day 2 was horrendous, walking stick is and has become our new favourite friend to us both. We always had the thought they were for lazy people. But they gave you balance and a little heave up the giant steps or take your weight going down. Today we went up to to 4215m. The original trail the Incas laid down all those centuries ago of stone is very uneven. So most of the time you are looking down trying not to slip or twist your ankle. As we are slogging it out huffing and puffing. The porters are running up those giants steps with the 25kg huge back pack on their backs some are just wearing sandals on their feet or just street sand shoes no fancy outdoor hiking shoes. Just amazing really. We reach the 4215m summit but its pouring with rain and freezing. So no photos moment was had. Need to decend quickly. We bought emergency ponchos at the beginning of the trek but I think I bought a Childs one. Whoops… It covers me enough to keep dry over my rain coat. Tony’s was a adult size luckly. So once you reach the top you definitely have to come down and it’s many steps and we are descending into a very cold and wet valley. It’s pouring so hard and it’s freezing. When we arrive everything is set up again. So we climb into the tent and try and dry off our wet clothes with not much success. That night was so cold. After a warming dinner. We go to our tents lying in the sleeping bag and shivering was not fun, so cold. Day 2 done and dusted, thank goodness.
Day 3 well, we are in the valley and at the bottom, so we have to go up. The side of the hill we could see other porters and trekkers all ready starting early in the morning. The camp site is quite large as per regulations of the Inca Trail 400 people including porters and trekkers are allowed to be on the trail at any one day. Todays up isn’t as intense as day 2 but its still up and still takes your breathe away. The knees and thighs are really starting to feel this hiking gig. As we have never done this before ever. So we get to the high elevation which wasn’t to bad just keep head down watch those feet. But here comes the hi-light of today its 1000m down and down. The scenery and quietness of the mountains is both beautiful and serene. The changing mico climates as we weave our way along the paths that once took the traders of the Incas to other communities to trade and take the news of the day. Is mind blowing and so very interesting as Freddie our guide would tell us stories of the past. We didn’t really come across any animals as such we saw a few hummingbirds could hear more birds in the distance. Our last and final camp site loomed at the end of day down across a valley we just had to get there and it involved going down these steps that are narrow and many though the Inca terraces. We are so glad this day is done. Our tents are set up on a terrace we had the best room with a view that looks over towards the next days adventure to our final destination Machu Picchu. On our last dinner together our chief and porters make us this cake it was amazing how did they do that? to celebrate the end of this hike of all hikes. As next morning we are to be woken at 3.30am to start the journey towards The Sun Gate of Machu Picchu.
Day 4 Woken at 3.30am but wouldn’t you know it its pouring with rain again its pelting down but we have to pack up our belongs get some tea and toast to get us to lunch. The porters have to get everything packed and start heading down the valley were the train is, to go back to Cusco if they miss this one the next one isn’t till 9pm that night. So they are running in the rain with plastic sheeting covering their huge back pack to make it in time. The paths are saturated with the water running down them. We wait for about an hour until 5.30am when the check point is open. The other hikers are lining up to pass through too. While the remaining porters are collecting the garbage as the site is to be left as you found it. The garbage is actually weighed just as at the beginning everything was weighed. It makes all the hiking companies accountable for aspects of everything that is bought into the national park which is fantastic.
We are hiking the last 2 hours the path is narrow and very wet and muddy and undulating. Its a single line path to get to the gate. But there is always the ones that have to get there a minute or two ahead of the pack can’t understand that thinking but hey life is made up of many different walks of life. As we have been walking the 3 days there have been groups we pass then they pass us some are the super fit running like they are on a mission to keep up with the porters. Ahhh…. let them be, I hope they took some photos and just stood there and took it all in, the beauty of nature.
As we hiked closer and closer and literally crawled up the final set of steps we are here. We have made it, we walk though the The Sun Gate which incidentally is just a name that it was given. They aren’t sure why it was there and its actual purpose. It was just amazing to see this ancient and spectacular city. Even though the cloud hid it from view it was such a vision and thank-god we have finished it has been a very hard and amazing journey. As we make our way down to the city Freddie gives us tour and more information and theories of why this city was built and its purpose. So our day started pouring with rain and ended sunny and 28 degrees. I am glad its done our legs are tired and sore. After our tour around the ancient city we board the bus on a winding trail down to Agues Calientes at the bottom. We have a celebration lunch with a beer or two and wait to catch our train back to the beginning. Then another 2 hour bus ride to get back to Cusco and a hot shower.
We are back in Cusco for one more night to enjoy this fabulous city wash some stinky clothes and eat some delicious food.
The next day we are boarding a train to Lake Titicaca.. We have opted to take the luxury Belmond Train. The only other trains we have been on are a little to be desired. in other countries this year. This is amazing right from your arrival at the station to boarding, the food the staff. There is only 14 guests on the train and 25 staff. It was an amazing experience. The train was actually bought in Australia in Townsville in 2013, shipped to Peru. The Indian Pacific train. We arrived at lake Titicaca at about 11.30pm at night after departing Cusco at 11am with a couple of stops along the way. At one point we stopped at the highest point which was 4320m then descend down to 3800m to the lake. When we arrived at the station in Puno at 11.30pm then we slept on the train had the most delicious fresh breakfast and departed to see the floating reed villages on the lake. Mmmmmm …….it was very touristic didn’t really enjoy the whole experience. As most of the community actually live in Puno and come out to the floating reed villages to put on some sort of weird show on. We also went out to another island and had some lunch the lake is huge as it borders with Bolivia.
We are off to the Colca Valley with a small stop at the funerary, early start too. Six hours later we arrive at Chivay. First passing the most spectacular landscape. The journey was not boring at all. Seeing the active Volcanos puffing form a distance. Passing by the highest point of 4910m above sea level. People had piled up stacks of rocks, apparently to make a wish at this highest point. Whatever works for you, I say. We are staying at this lodge down on the river in Chivay. It has hot springs that are at 37-39 degrees. So we definitely went and had a soak in them. Also a hot stone massage. What a treat. So good for those leg muscle that still had a bit of left over soreness form the epic hike to Machu Picchu.
Off again next morning to the Colca Valley or the Valley of the Volcanoes. We are looking for the Condors gliding and floating in the sky searching for some dead treat to feast on. They are truly magnificent birds with their wing span at 310cm. They don’t start to have chicks until they are 10 years old and live to 75 years. They have chicks every 3 years and the chick would stay with the parents until it’s 2 years old. Before finding its own way in life.The whole valley is amazing the arid landscape with the terraces where the local families would grow crops. First with the alfalfa then potatoes followed by quinoa and lastly with corn or maize. So it makes for a green patch work landscape.
We are heading to Arequipa a city of over a million people surrounded by volcanoes . El Misti being the largest of them all. The others are extinct. But El Misti does puff out some steam every now and then. If she erupted it would be goodbye Arequipa. As the city sits at the foot of the volcano. There are only 3 main roads out of the city it would be a certain disaster. So we hope that she sleeps forever. Arequipa is only 80kms form the Pacific Ocean too. The city is very arid and dusty has a history Jeuits being there and an amazing Monastery of Santa Catalina. So very colourful it was huge. Only 20 nuns live there now and have committed to that life style. It has been a great stop in our journey around Peru. What is weird I think that as Christmas approaches the decorations go out of Sant Claus and snowmen and all the paraphernalia that is Christmas, seems so weird but as most are Catholic I guess its the way.
El Misti Volcano Arequipa
Off to Paracas tomorrow to fly over the Nazcar lines.
Here we are in Paracas in southern Peru over 200kms or 4 hours on a double decker bus which that was a first from Lima. So we flew from Arequipa about 90mins flight then taken to the bus station to board the big bus. Time went past quickly reading . Not a bad journey to the aridness of southern Peru.We are on the ocean looking west. Towards Australia hahahaaaa….. getting closer to home.
We went this morning to do a flight over the Nazca Lines. Picked up and taken to this brand new international airport that really isn’t an international airport. It only has the small planes which are 3 flights a day over the Nazca Lines. Quiet strange everything is there to go but no flights. Maybe adventually. They said they used to have flights from Cusco but they stopped. So we board the plane 12 passages and the pilots on a single engine plane. I do prefer two engines just for the back up feeling if one fails. It was a very loud flight no headphones unless you have your own. We spotted many of the these geoglyphs but not all 300. It was a sight to see how did they do this and why that is the question. It was a little bumpy though as we flew down low to veiw these creations of 2000 years ago. The landscape is very arid then you come across these very green patches with crops of trees or of something else we really couldn’t tell. They were winding down the old river beds towards the ocean. Or just in the middle of no-where with roads leading to them. We were told that there is an abundant underground water to water these trees and crops but what about the quality of the soil. It looked devoid of any nutrients to sustain such huge agricultural practices and towns and the people.
We have a couple of nights here to relax and enjoy looking at the sea before heading back to Lima then onto our next destination. Mexico for the month of December staying with a friend of ours from Adelaide we knew from way back. He has built a resort at Puerto Escondido on the pacific side of Mexico
Au Revoir dear Paris we will miss you . We hope the feeling is mutual.
We are flying with Swiss air to Newark airport NYC. But first we have to go back to Zurich and touch base there. Going though passport control we got the “I just need to make a phone call look”. We were one day over our 90 day visa. But it wasn’t our fault seriously, it was the airlines fault for changing for flight time. He gave us a warning frowned at us like naughty children. He knew we had a flight to catch in an hour waved us through. Such power he weald from that tiny box and tiny desk. Seriously guys we aren’t criminals just your average Aussie tourist trying to leave your beautiful country.
Swiss Air was a pretty good flight. During the night or maybe it was early morning I looked across at the lady sitting or laying across the row and she had two dachshund dogs one was on her lap and the other wrapped around her head like a turban. Her husband got up and took one of them to the bathroom to pee I guess. Its an 8 hour flight, dogs need to pee too. But I was thinking how was this done? did he hang its little bottom over the toilet or just let it pee and wipe the floor. Note to self always wear shoes to bathroom not those socks they give you when small dogs are on the plane.
We have arrived in the big old USA we are no longer virgins to this country.
We are coming to stay with some wonderful guys we met and our inspiration to this whole year long adventure. Mark & Jim. We met Mark & Jim back in 2017/18 on bike riding trip in Rathjastan,India over a 2 week period. It was a fabulous bike ride with Grasshopper bike tours. At that stage they had been travelling for nearly 5 years. We had a chat with them, they inspired us. We had a chat over a beer or two, we decided then and there we will make this happen. We left one year to the day when we decided lets do this. Here we are 9 months in.
Mark & Jim have generously offered for us to stay in their apartment in the lower east side. We had no idea were this is we just got into the taxi. Actually it’s a great part of NYC. We felt like it was in burbs of the city. Great views from the windows to the Empire State Building and the landscape of the buildings near and far and just mesmerising .With some direction and helpful tips we walked and walked the streets. Up first Avenue to the tourist end of town which we didn’t particularly like. Time Square and all is like mmm…. but have you been to Shibuyu in Tokyo now thats something. We stayed we looked took a photo or two and get the hell out of there. Some days we walked 20kms which we can’t believe we did. We touched on Central Park a little it’s a massive park. The reason we touched on it. The old scenario of finding that damm loo, toilette, restroom whatever you would like to call it. NYC needs more of them. When we did find it there is only 3 and a long line, omg wetting my pants is not an option here. Coming back to their apartment after a long day walking and looking dinner was being prepared it was heaven. Jim is fabulous cook. They haven’t cooked hardly ever when they were travelling.Well I don’t think ever. But his culinary skills are fantastic. Now Mark he is the cocktail man. He introduced us to the Manhattan, oh my….Our new favourite cocktail. We watched how it is made it, pour this and add that and a touch of that and splash of this, stir with a swizzle stick over ice pour into your fancy cocktail glasses. So good. Also Rob Roy when a certain ingredients was already consumed. Going on our list of cocktails. Just need the ingredients list. mmm…..Must get that. Mark can you send me that please .
Another day we walked to the 9/11 memorial water feature. I was surprised the size of these water features and sombreness of it all. Did touch our hearts in a big way. We went inside the Oricle amazing building. The railway system was underneath the twin towers so its a huge shopping complex. We found this awesome Italian shop/restaurant it took up a whole floor. The food that was there was unbelievable the quality and the freshness. We had an amazing lunch. After lunch we thought we would search out The Charging Bull on Wall Street. Well that was too funny to say the least. You have this picture in your mind that its huge and in large plaza. Sorry folks, totally the opposite small bull small corner of a plaza. People where lining up with manners and grace to have their photo taken in front of this bronze bull’s head and I must say the rear end balls had become shiny with all those hands giving them a little rub. hehehee….. We didn’t do that, what for! We just come to see and witness. We also attempted walk across the Brooklyn Bridge we started with determination but what put us off was the people, so many people that don’t know how to keep right for god sake. So its a constant battle with people walking into you and you into them. We got one third in got the photo we wanted and abandoned this trek. Maybe if we were on bikes the adventure would have finished. I don’t think we missed anything other than saying we walked over the Brooklyn bridge. We did, just not the whole way.
We walked through chinatown to get to Wall Street and the memorial. I really felt like I was in China the smell of this area the whole look and feel.
Another far interesting place we visited twice was the Hi Line. To get to the Hi Line from Jim & Marks you walked through a great area which we liked the vibe of is No Ho. The apartment buildings the shops and restaurants. The Hi Line was a railway line at one stage instead of knocking it down they have made it a green garden in the sky and its flourishing. Not sure about all the apartment building being built up so close we could just about see what some of the dwellers had on their walls.
In the Hudson Yards they have this rather interesting sculpture that you can climb inside if you so desire, The Vessel. It makes for a great photo. We didn’t climb inside couldn’t really see the point.
Also near the Hi Line is an art Museum The Whitney we love modern art. Ok I think this collection was fasinating pushing the boundaries what is art and what is a pile of stuff is .
We also went to the affordable art show and our good friend from Adelaide Emma Hack http://www.emmahackartist.com was there showing her wonderful artwork which we have a couple at home. It was so nice to see another familiar Adelaideian. We do get about us Adelaide people. We are looking at all the other artists and then came across this striking piece by a photographer. The megapixels that the art was done was at 3000 who knew you could even do that. He had taken spots on the pavements around NYC that had paint splashed on them etc. But the clarity was astounding you thought it was a painting you looked sideways at this art work and it was a print. Jim was with us that day he was intrigued too and one of the artists pieces was of the pavement near where they live well directly across the road actually. Next day they made appointment to see the artist with Mark they are now the happy owner of this fantastic piece which will find its home in their new apartment.
The artist was Dan Piech collection was Concrete Canvas
VASTPHOTOS.COM/CONCRETE. DANVASTPHOTOS.COM
Mark & Jim have decided to put some roots down in NYC and have bought an apartment floor in NO-HO they took us there to check it out before demolition started it has 49 windows the views are fantastic and that warm sun coming in was so light and bright. We saw it a just before we left again nearly completely empty of the ugly and not needed and ready to create this awesome space they have planned. A great project. We hope to return one day to stay in a guest room. wink, wink….
Happy birthday , love ya long time
Tony Had his 58th birthday in NYC, lucky man he is. The day started like this- let’s do a ferry ride on the Hudson River. So we walk and walk and walk its a nice walk along the Hudson banks. We get there. Maybe 20 people already to do this ferry ride that lasts for 4 hours. Then it was cancelled. OMG… no alternative either just all out cancelled. So what do we do, go have lunch. We ended back to a building behind the The Vessell found a really nice restaurant that over looked The Vessel.We had the best food we have had eating out so far. I mentioned it was Tony’s birthday bingo bango got a free desert plate for the birthday boy. Next on the agenda for Tony’s birthday is we are all going to see The Book of Mormon in the broadway district. Now we have been walking its great for fitness. But the boys took us on the under ground it was quick but it done and off the list of needed things to do in NYC. Not my must favoured way of getting about.The play was superb. When a play starts and the first song is’ God is fucked’ it’s going to be to funny. We are in for a good old belly laugh. Seats are tiny and so close though. Tony was sitting next to some rather volumous people they are really touching into your personnel space, they had to sit on their sides, poor things. After we went to a Cubaian restaurant and had some dinner listened to some music which was great, got up had a a little salsa dance. I think the birthday boy had a great day and night. Thanks Mark & Jim for sharing the start of Tony’s 58th year.
We say goodbye To Mark & Jim and promise ourselves we will comeback just to see their amazing new apartment.
We are off up to Rochester to see my sister Debbie for her up and coming 50th birthday. We decided to drive up, not far 5 hours or so. We picked up a car from Avis. Note to selves don’t deal with Avis the worst service by far we have experienced. What’s with this too, every time we book a car its never the one we order, never. Grrrr…..We got out NYC with ease which we were surprised. 5 hours wizzed by. Here we are in Rochester my brother Brenton and his wife Gayle are here too to celebrate this number that we have all achieved just a few years before.wink, wink.
Debbie and Frank have this party planned with her friends and family. We help her get things ready with a huge grazing table. Looked fabulous. We all had a great night met many of her nearest and dearest. Clearly don’t remember their names. Hopefully they did ours. Next day was part 2 of the birthday celebrations with brunch and 10 pin bowling. Meeting another group of people another bunch of names and faces. Brenton and Gayle are heading back to Toronto then Hong Kong and back to Perth. So we had a couple of days when all 3 siblings are together which is a rare and strange event.
Next day we head up to Niagara Falls about a 90 min drive from Rochester. Debbie is doing all the driving so thats relaxing. We cross the border into Canada see the falls. It was a little underwhelming after seeing Victoria Falls. The strangest sights was all the side shows and rides and tacky tourist things that was there it kinda wrecked the whole area. Another tick off the list. Drove back cooked some dinner for everyone as I hadn’t cooked in some time. We had a great 3 days of partying and meeting her American family. She has a whole month of small gatherings and get togethers as her offical birthday isn’t until November 5th. Happy birthday dear sis.
We are off to San Francisco quite a long flight to other side of this huge country we are in. We catch a cab to the place we are staying on the waterfront area. It was very heart breaking coming through the burbs and seeing the amount of homeless people with nothing and looking like lost souls. In a world were no-one cares. We did also see this a lot in NYC homeless people with absolutely nothing lying on the ground over the warm airshafts to keep warm. Its sad state of affairs when there is no-one out there looking out for them. What happens to these people in bleakness of the winter especially in NYC. All so sad.
So here we are in San Francisco sick as dog, dam-it. Tony is good but his time will come, you wait. One good night sleeping should cure this chest shitty thing I have. Next day feeling perky enough to walk to the Golden Gate Bridge always think sunshine and fresh air helps with the distraction of feeling like crap. It was lovely walking along the foreshore right up to the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. We caught the iconic trolley car. Cause we are into iconic things it seems. hahaaa….. San Francisco is extremely hilly. Standing on the side rails scooting up and down those hills in the trolly car. It was fun. Another iconic place we went is the world’s most crookedness street Lombard st. Tick number 3 we need another iconic place to visit the painted ladies. A row of iconic (there is that word again).Iconic no 4 the houses are painted beautifully. I couldn’t really see why they are iconic but they where beautiful.
Our hotel it was large had many rooms and we had a nice room I am not complaining well I am slightly complaining. One night well in the early hours of the morning we are woken to the shenanigans of the people next door. It sounded like they were making a porn movie to much fake oooo’s and ahhh… Then they had some rejuvenation time and back at it at the crack of dawn with the full on bed banging against the wall. Come on guys…. seriously. So hotel on the foreshore design fault 101 thinking sound proof walls would have been good. Another thing I could hear someone coughing across the hallway. Holly shit batman. Budget build.
We met up with another Adelaide friend well he is a good friend of our son Zac & Ruby he is working in San Francisco. Nice to see Lachlan he is loving his life and work. Another familiar face.
We are picking up a car until the end of the month. Guest what not the one we ordered again but better service from a different company SixT. The guy was so nice we loved his name Rudolph maybe he was born at Christmas time and his mum & dad couldn’t think of name and then Rudolph the red nose reindeer was playing. Boom name sorted. You remember the ones that make an impression. We are off to Half Moon Bay about an hour from San Francisco. Guest what its pumpkin season and they are everywhere those yellow round pumpkins ready for Halloween such a big thing here.
We found a great pub style place to watch the non existent surf but at least we are on the beach and looking at it having dinner and a beer. Our hotel is fine, spacious and clean. We wanted to see where Mavericks surf break happens. We could see it but of course wrong time of the year.The small town of Half Moon Bay was sweet just a main street really. We found some amazing art from a man in Atlanta very different so its on its way back home. Won’t it be fun when we get home boxes of little things that have been shipped home over the year. One surprise after another. We found another brewery bar on the bay it certainly had some strange beers but we had a couple such wonderful weather. On the point of the bay is the American forces radar you can see this large dome shape apparently after reading about it, missiles can be fired from there. Now that is not what I want to read.
Dinner another night was at Thai place it was different, unusual. But did the trick for some asian food. After dinner we went to check out a billboard we had seen during the afternoon stroll down the Main Street. “The Jones Gang” http://www.thejonesgang.com. We walked upstairs paid our entrance fee and sat down amongst the grey head brigade. Hang on we are part of that the grey hair gang. But we are only just entering it not completely immersed in it yet!. It’s in the old town hall. Travis Jones the lead singer gets up and plays this most beautiful song ‘A Woman Like That’ we stayed we are intrigued and he has the most beautiful voice. 90 mins later we are sold to his music met the man himself what a charmer. It hasn’t been something we come across is live music. Once in Santiago in Spain some local folk music was playing. It was fun. Hope we come across more.
On to our next stop Santa Cruz we are staying in another hotel again, eye rolling emoji insert right here. Its looks modern, nice decor. Front desk staff have the personality of a cactus. Prickly don’t talk to me I might prick you with my prickle, good start. The room is nice but then it all goes down hill. We had dinner at the hotel. Staff thought we had our cloak invisibility on. Not good, food was tasty. Then came breakfast same thing. the cloak was still on. Oh well, we thought give them the benefit of the doubt. But we are glutton for punishment we had dinner again at the hotel again the cloak was on and again the next day at breakfast so bad. Where was the Manager?. Then expect 20% tip, no way. We left after two nights not after Tony had a moment he thought he was getting Tonsillitis I told you he would get sick. It turns out he is all good. But the doctors was certainly happy charging us $220US for the pleasure to tell him . Better to be safe than sorry. So we left said hotel got our account emailed to us. Guess what ladies and gentlemen we didn’t get charged for our dinners both nights we had a bottle of wine too one night. So maybe our vibe of being invisible worked in our favour. Is that a Paradox? That was name of the hotel. Paradox
While we are in the Santa Cruz area we visited Capitola we met a lady in a surf shop raved about it. So we go and get incredibly disappointed by the whole bay area couldn’t see the attraction but everyone is different in what they see as beautiful some see it with rose coloured glasses. Santa Cruz was nice but time to drive inland to the Sequoia National Park and Kings Canyon.
It was about a 4 hour drive along major freeways boy do California have some huge freeways. Tony is an expert and negotiating the cars and so many trucks . Google maps is fantastic .Don’t forget Siri we love her too. We are staying at a faux par gone with wind themed BnB place. Well it’s different, unusual and stuck in 1980’s decor. But I did read she is a fabulous cook, breakfast you are in for treat. We arrive late because we decided to drive into the Park and take a look around first it’s a very windy road up to the giant trees. Took over an hour. But it was definite wow moment to see these majestic trees so tall and the girths so broad. We came back to Gone with Wind place checked in. Dinner we are always wondering where. We are out in middle of no-where. So Lisa the host directs to the next town Exeter 10 miles (now I am now slipping into the American way ) to a restaurant called Monet. It was super delicious food didn’t help that we were very hungry as we hadn’t eaten all day. We went back the next night too. Would’nt you know it we met a man there who had been to Adelaide. Then he started naming some random country towns from NSW to Victoria .It was totally to funny. He use to sell fertiliser to the farmers. He named lamingtons and vanilla slices and canned spaghetti on toast I am not sure who eats that. But he said he loved it. He gave us some tips for Yosemite National Park. Thanks kind man.
Back to Sequoia National Park and Kings Canyon we did a hike through the giant trees to Moro Rock it was so beautiful the autumn (fall) colours the air is warm and still perfect for hiking around underneath such a beautiful canopy of natures beauty . Climbing Moro rock the views are just astoundingly beautiful. We decided we should drive to Kings Canyon to see this waterfall. It read well and kind man said go and the pass to get there is very scenic and high. Ok lets do this, 90mins later we arrive at the waterfall. Ohhh….we drove all this way. for this. Yes, its a small waterfall. But guess what I get to drive again after my greek island misadventure on the other side of the road. Tony trusts me to get us back to Gone with Wind BnB. He only slightly yelped when he felt I was to close to edge. But we are here aren’t we.
Some crazy American road rules:
When you come to a stop sign first you have the right away on across road. But if you arrive second you have to give away to who ever was there first. Righto.
Second one is that you can turn right on a red light as long as there is no traffic coming and is clear to do so. Righto. In the city no matter where.
We are driving to Yosemite National Park we have hired an airbnb place thank goodness I need to cook my own food. I am tired of hotel rooms and restaurant menus and that 20% tipping thingo. So the town of Oakhurst is just about an hour outside of the Park. Its a great retro style place with a leafy outlook. Love it, Bring on some home cooked food. Its all about the small things.
OMG, Yosemite is so beautiful those vistas are like nothing that we have seen before. Especially when you come through the tunnel and there is the most beautiful view of the Dome and El Capitan. We saw a documentary earlier in the year about a guy called Alex who slept on the sheer cliff face trying to reach the very top after many attempts. Aspiring movie to all rock climbers out there.’ Free Solo ‘ watch if you haven’t it’s an awesome movie. When we watched the movie we were in New Zealand enduring camper van life right at the very beginning of our adventure. I never thought in my wildest dreams that we would be standing in front of such a rock face seeing it just there. it was something else to be up close looking up and just thinking I can’t believe he did that.
The kind man we met in Exeter said we should do couple of adventures the Tioga Pass and Brodie it was a 4 hour drive each way. So we left early one morning and drove and drove through the Tioga Pass at 9945ft (3031m) it was built in the beginning of last century in the early 1900’s which is pretty amazing due to the engineering of it all. Brodie was a gold mining town discovered in 1876 and deserted in 1915. About 5% of the building remains to this day. They found about $18 million dollars worth of gold which is pretty amazing. Not sure how he Brodie found that gold and what brought him to this valley in the first place he was from New York State. He died before seeing the actual gold removed from the ground. There was a massive fire so that why there isn’t that many houses left from the 8 thousand occupants of the time. What was fascinating is that some of the building contents are as they left them. Apparently they couldn’t take all their things as it was so hard. So it was left. We thought we were a throw away society it had already started way back in 1915. Makes you think.
It was interesting walking around Brodie a very cold wind whipping down the streets. Apparently it can get up 20 ft of snow those poor people how did they survive everything would have frozen over. One other point to note was 95% of the houses are made from hard timber. Where did timber come from not a tree insight. The landscape is bare hills void of trees and life. They are just hard ass people trying to make money with their time on this earth.
I got to drive again. Only on roads with one lane. Will leave the multi lanes to Tony. We have left Yosemite with great memories of nature in its finest.
Time for another epic dive back to the pacific coast and another airbnb more home cooking. Its a record a whole week of cooking. So good, love it. The supermarkets are amazing. Wholefoods is wow…..
Summerland, near Santa Barbara is were we are staying in a place that has views of the pacific and oil rigs. Didn’t know that when we booked this. Tar on the beach from the oil bubbling out of the cracks under sea. So the beach is off limits for walking and swimming. Unless you want tar on your feet.
So 5 days of doing basically f..ck all. We are looking forward to it and have enjoyed it. We have loved it all looking and being a tourist every step of the way but there comes a times we need a break from this. Why am I complaining, nothing to complain about we are living the dream. Being in a place that has a great outlook and a fantastic kitchen not to mention a washing machine. Is heaven. It was good to live those days as if you are at home just pondering around doing nothing of importance not looking at things or needing to. We managed to bit of shopping at outdoor shops for our up and coming adventure to Peru. But thats it, so boring I know but how we relish in the boring is super ridiculous.
Today we are to off Viva Las Vegas 5 hour drive to the city of sin and frivolity . It just a place we thought we need to tick. We have booked a helicopter flight over to the Grand Canyon at sunset. So we are excited about that. A 5 hour drive then do helicopter flight good idea in theory . Tony does all the driving I am just the DJ. Full on freeways with up to seven or eight lanes at some points just crazy and the amount of RV’s with the small car in tow its just amazing. Love to know where they are going and where have they been and why.
We have arrived .We are staying at the Bellagio a massive hotel with the iconic fountain in front.Think Ocean’s 11, 12 and 13. You know the scene. Anyway its been here awhile. We check in, but we are in awe of the gambling as you walk to the elevator you can have a quick go on the pokie machines or a quick game of something before you even reach your room insane to the brain we are thinking.
All very professional picked up by a limo only in Vegas with other punters. The lads that have joined us are from San Paulo Brasil. No English. So Brasilan lads are with us on the same helicopter they have paid extra for front seat. It was a amazing flight over the Hoover dam and Lake Mead that was formed from the dam. Its was such beautiful landscape to fly over. To see a tiny little bit of the Grand Canyon was a definite tick off our list. The helicopter landed on an area below the rim for photos and bubbles. We got to get out and have a wonder for a bit and take the shots. We drink the bubbles with a little snack and have a chat with our pilot Arron. It was beautiful, we loved it. Then fly back on dusk over the strip of Las Vegas coming to life with it vibrance and colour. Awesome few hours. So lets just get lost in maze of casinos and colour ,drink some expensive drinks and people watch. At least we found some awesome asian food. It was an experience of seeing people and them being memorised on those machines hoping for the win. I feel sorry that they think they are going to win when we all know its the house who is the winner. Next day feeling like someone shouldn’t of mixed their drinks. doh….
We are off to see a Cirque Soliel ‘O’ at the Bellagio. Very convenient. Wow and triple wow… What an amazing performance in 90mins. It’s all done in a pool of water that is just so hard to explain the spectacle, the skill of the performance was just outstanding. It was memorising to say the least. Great way to finish our short but intense stay in Viva Las Vegas.
Elvis has left the building………
We are off to Palm Springs for the iconic retro homes and architecture that we both adore. 4 hours drive on a busy freeway and its Monday doesn’t anyone work .
I don’t often say where we are staying but we are at the end of our USA stay one more night at the airport and we are outer here. But first we are loving Palm Springs the people the vibe those homes the back drop of the mountain range. The cocktails, the retro shops that I wish I could fill a suit case up and ship it all home. So good. We are totally inspired and have plans in our creative minds for when we return home. The style of home will definitely suit our climate and where we live. Palm trees are my fav especially the Washington palm. Cactus and gravel what’s not to love.
palm heaven
We have had a blast in the USA we have seen such small portion of this massive country. But it’s time for the next adventure of the next month. We are closing in on year long time away. Still have 3 months to go and maybe 4 more countries to visit. We are excited because Cuba here we come.
It was sad to leave the Greek Islands we only had just got into the rhythm of the greeting,’ Kalimera’ we had pretty much nailed it too. It’s always the way, isn’t it and then it’s time to leave for another country and another cuisine and another language.
Hola San Sebastian, We are staying a little out of San Sebastian, Hondarribia, Calle de Axular just for one night. It happened to be red beret night of the bands in huge numbers drumming so very loudly to a tune with little piccolo’s. Everyone was cheering them on and it was like the battle of the bands. One group went one way the other went the other. It went on for hours to very late not sure the reasoning but it made for a mighty street parade and the bars where full and sprawling out into the streets. It was a warm evening too. We had booked into a one star place not sure why it was given such a low rating the room was prefect the breakfast was tasty and fresh, not expensive either. We are told its because they don’t have a lift or air conditioning. Bah… don’t need those things. Winner for us we thought.
We are driving down, to Boal Asturias to stay out at Hotel Rural Palacio de Prelo. It was certainly in the country side. So very green and misty and sunny, cows and cows and did I mention cows. It is all very pretty. Tony has hired an Audi A5 what a car to zoom along those highways doing 150kms or more, sits on the road so well. It’s made to drive that fast, even faster when you flatten it just a touch more. We chose this destination as we are keen to go to cathedral beach and its kinda close. We haven’t really stayed in the country much, always along the coast line.
Might have a quick chat about the place we stayed. Very well renovated by this couple Antonio and Elyse. Elyse stayed in the kitchen didn’t see her other than when she was scattering around the place or cooking in the kitchen. Antonio, I read on a review had a funny little habit, well, some might call it a funny habit of perving at your boobs. So I was watching his eyes constantly to see where they might land. He was having a good old perve at my boobs too. Well I though good luck with that you old perve. He seemed nice enough but maybe he has been living in this rural situation to long and got tired at looking at his own wife boobs who knows. Didn’t bother me it was just he needed to refine his perve a little better if this was his thing. Elyse cooked us a lovely dinner and breakfast. It was very peaceful with Mr Antonio (aka Mr Pervy) at his lovely retreat.
Mr Pervy gave us directions to get to Cathedral Beach which was around 40 mins from his Rural retreat. You need to get there around 2 hours before low tide and you also have around 2 hours after low tide to get down onto the beach and view those arches. It was a cold day of sorts had to get the puffer out again, its been a while. There are many cars and camper vans parked along the coast all waiting for the time to get down on the beach and snap that photo. We waited for maybe an hour then headed down. Btw, you have register your visit too. What a fricken pain in the ass. It doesn’t cost anything but they are trying to keep the numbers to around 4,500 per day. Holly Molly that’s a lot of people. So we did, online of course. Headed down to the waters edge. The Atlantic sea is so very cold compared to the Mediterranean. We waited on the beach for another hour. Edging closer and closer to areas waiting and waiting for that water to sub side out to sea. We want the photo with out the hoards of people, no photo bombers in our shot, no way hoe-zay. Standing in the freezing water being a few metres in front of the people sneaking around the corners, wading up to our crouches just about. Lucky shorts clothed our legs. We did it, got in front got the photo we were looking for and we are gone faster than the tide can retreat. Our toes are so numb. Tick, done we are off to Nazare in Portugal maybe a 5-6 hour drive from Cathedral beach.
Tony is up for it, he is in his element in the Audi. Driving at break neck speeds 0f 160kms/h. or more. So many toll booths going into Portugal I think the whole trip down we pasted through 15 toll booths each wanting something from us for the pleasure of driving on their freeways which I must say are good roads. So at least they are using the money to maintain the roads. We arrived at Nazare the seaside town that is home to the Nazare huge wave Praia do norte that smashes in during the winter time. So maybe November or even later those waves just pump in, some of them are 80ft. We just wanted to see exactly where this is. Nazare is a very busy holiday town. We are staying in a small hotel called 7 Skirts. Weird name I know. But what a lovely hotel or guest house the rooms are small but nice. Only thing I thought was really strange is the separation wall between the bathroom and the rest of the small room its just wooden slats so if one of us does a smelly poo, not so good. Clearly that isn’t me, girls don’t do things like that, everyone knows we are ladies with non smelling poo, design fault here.
Breakfast was sensational all laid out on the table it so good, the best we have had so far. The plates cups were lovely, I wanted to take them all home. We have a couple of nights here and first thing and a high priority is bike riding clothes. We threw the old ones out from the trip earlier in the year. Not lugging them around taking up valuable packing space in my medium size bag. It proved to more difficult than you can imagine. 5 hours later after going here and there to find a store. Mission accomplished we have the gear to pad the bottom and protect the head and look half like a lycra clad cyclist.
Nazare the actual point was interesting to see. A great little museum with the surfers boards and equipment, to see actually what was used to surf that 80ft monster was very interesting and frightening that they used such small boards. The little red light house where the iconic photo is taken. Mission done we have seen, we have purchased its time for dinner. We found this little restaurant in the back street by accident. Family run with baby and all in the restaurant. The owner he was brilliant he made the night so funny and his food was of course fresh and tasty. He had us laughing and entertaining his baby while his wife was running around in the kitchen. It was a great night to say goodbye to Portugal. it was short but sweet off to Leon now, that’s a big drive about 6-7 hours straight through the guts this time.
Driving, driving, so much driving today. But the Audi felt like it was was scimming over the road. Went to wrong town to drop off the car just a little blimp over the 6 hours we drove. But I could feel Tony was so over driving he just needed to vacate that car and get the hell out of there to the hotel. Getting a little testy here.
In Leon we are joining a group of like minded cyclists to cycle from Leon to Santiago de Compostela 333km. Mad I know, cause we have done no training what so ever, this is going to hurt big time. Well at least we have the padding on our butts that is most important.
We met our group of 16 enthusiastic riders So we have Heidi from Denmark ( she is the queen of the hill without a doubt) Susanah from UK she can ride like the wind. Duncan & Frances those guys get the gold medal for amazingness Duncan has glaucoma and his vision was just 20 metres in front so he would just watch tyres and especially Frances. Mike he was 70 he was so powerful up those hills with those skinny legs. Micheal 2 he was the leader of the pack and the champion of all champions of getting those stamps in that passport book, more on that later. Connie and Anna from Chicago, USA those ladies could ride with so much strength and fitness. Put us to shame. We had Russell from New Hampshire USA at 73 that man had some determination and fitness he may of been last most days but he got the job done. Michelle a lady from the UK she hadn’t riden a bike with gears for years but she had mastered them all and always with this huge backpack on her back she wasn’t a turtle she was the hare. Then we have Robin a very tall man with great riding skills and strength on those ascents. Kirsty and Walter from Scotland what a great Scottish couple they are so super fit too. Barbara is our last rider she wins the medal for the bravest of them all, she came off on a decent. Tony & I came around a corner up in the mountains on a freezing day and there she was sprawled across the road.. We thought she broke something. We all gave her our jackets to keep her warm. Alfonso called the ambulance she was so lucky to come away with some minor scratches and bruises on her face and body the scenario could have been so much worse. Barbara got back on the bike the next day ,what a woman. Then us, slightly on the unfit side as I said no training nothing zipo. Just walking but we have been lazing in the greek islands for a month no training there. Oh, well here we go.Let the pain begin.
We cycle to Astorga first town no big deal bit on the warm side though around 58kms but it is slightly on the up side, well sometimes. Over gravel surfaces and tarmac roads. We are totally enthusiastic about it all, riding in front saying we can do this, well, I tell ya that didn’t last all of the week. I think we can only focus on the moments that caused so much pain. In this recollection. Two days we went up, one day over 13kms up and that was the day I think day it was really cold and we had head winds all the way it was torturous. The day poor Barbara fell. We would cycle from 9.30 till about 5pm with a break for lunch. There is no support team setting up water stops with snacks this is a pilgrims trail we need to suffer a little to feel like a Pilgrim. We did have Nacho he was the man he would fix the bikes and had water on hand which is very much appreciated by the group. As we need those brakes to be working really well with all those ups we had some massive down hills with some breakneck speeds reached sometimes, Tony I am talking about you. That man loves to speed down them hill with no fear.
One day we stayed in this lovely rural hotel it was a nice comfy hotel, dinner was very tasty wine was good. But rural hotel was at the bottom of the valley we had to go up first thing in the morning. An ascent of 650m over 8kms some of those parts was eye wateringly testing on my stamina and can do attitude. Most of the group zoomed up there in under an hour Tony did it in 1hr 15min. I did it in 2 hours. It was bloody hard lot’s of walking with riding mixed in there. Thank goodness really, no-one was around because some potty mouth words coming out of my mouth and it wasn’t very lady like at all. No sireee…. Over the 6 days of riding we always had an up and some fabulous downs. The accommodation was fine. Dinner was tasty and wine was consumed like water. Alfonso was great guide he had a busy time trying keep the group happy and together, 16 riders on your own is a lot to ask. I haven’t really talked about Tony as he rides with the pack so I wouldn’t really see him. I would see him when he had been waiting for some time for me to turn up at the coffee stop or at corner to point me and the others in the right direction. One day he was the last man to keep the group together don’t lose anyone person. But generally he sits up front, he is a pack man.
These passports. In Leon we went to this monastery to get our pilgrims passport book for a few Euro. Then along the way we collect stamps at every place we stop for coffee or lunch or where we have stayed that night. Still to this day I am not sure of the significance of the whole collecting stamp thing is . We did as all the others did, following like sheep. The walkers did also,I watched them tease that passport out of its special sleeve, it was a treasured item. .Then when you reach Santiago your passport is taken to the office of stamps and certificates and you are given a fancy certificate and a normal certificate to say you have completed the camino. You actually only have to walk 100kms or ride 200kms to get a certificate.So 333kms passed all the rules of certificate rules. That night we had a big celebration dinner at the end it was a great experience but I am glad its done and a huge tick off that list of achievements. On the positive we gained some fitness which is awesome. Have learned don’t scrimp on bike shorts they were just horrible the ones we bought in Portugal, had to buy a gel seat during the ride. My bum had no hours on the clock for comfort practice. All in all the ride was great, saw beautiful country side, said many times to the walkers buen camino (good way or have a good journey) or sorry for riding past them. One day we stopped for coffee all in important part of the morning and this girl was in the coffee shop she was doing the whole camino from France on a unicycle. That unicycle had a huge tyre. She had reasonable size back pack on too. She was amazing.
But you know be happy walkers you guys walking along with those walking stick thingos going clicky clack constantly would drive me bonkers. Maybe that is why they didn’t smile tired of their own beat.
333kms done met some lovely people from around the world. Buen Camino travellers it was awesome adventure. We are not religious at all as it is a religious journey but I think I had enlightenment on those days of huge accents. Next stop Barcelona
finished the camino I think we are very happy
We are meeting some friends from Adelaide Mark & Tracey as well as Rob & Bernie some others as well. They are all hopping on a cruise ship, 10 of them. They will have a great time I am sure. They had been planning this trip for years and its actually happening, they are all very excited. It was great to see Mark & Tracey and another familiar face on our journey this year. We have 4 days in Barcelona. First day we are doing a bike ride around Barcelona for 4 hours a great way to cruise around on e-bikes and you can see a lot too with a guide. But unfortunately Rob & Bernie are a day late as they were flying over and a lady passed out and fell on to Rob’s lap in the middle of the night so the plane was re-directed to Singapore. So an overnight and they are back on track again but a day late and really tired.
We had a great night in a restaurant we found not far from where we were staying. Tapas wine what can go wrong. Next day we are off to the Sagrada Familia they have been building this for 137 years maybe it will be finished soonish in 2026 apparently. They started in 1882 . We have looked at the outside before but not inside. It was very impressive I must say, It didn’t really feel like a church at all. More like an architectural wonder. The rest of the guys went and looked inside one of the famous Gaudi buildings we have seen before. Barcelona has a lot to offer in Gothic quarter the tapas bars are good. It was just finding a good one that is a challenge . We did go inside the famous la Boqueria food market. Wow it was chaos, so busy. The food looks amazing but the amount of people, it was all to much. We did find a tapas bar for a spot of lunch it was tasty but expensive. Us at one end of the bar and Tracey and Mark at the other thats how it goes at tapas bars get a spot where you can with out hesitation.
As we bid fare well to Mark & Tracey and Rob & Bernie and the other punters for their cruise of life time they will have the best time I am definitely sure of that. Tony & I head out to find some Japanese food, every city we come to we search for Japanese food sometimes its a hit, sometimes its a “really “moment. We had a hit in Barcelona it was so good, the kitchen was busy and the care and detail was exceptional. Win, win. After some wandering around looking at the streets of the gothic quarter just meandering we thought lets go and see a flamenco dance show for half and hour. It was actually pretty good. The male dancer was sensational so much energy and just all round good show. The female dancer I wish she wore the beautiful red and black flamenco dress they are so beautiful. Next, dinner we came across a fantastic tapas bar beautiful room and we just asked the waiter just bring us some food and it was the best idea we had all day. We had the best day of indulging in eating in Barcelona. It time to leave and head over to Mallorca.
Well, I think we have found the most beautiful island. We have hired a car and not a small one either, big mistake. I will tell you about that in a tick. We are staying in Solller what a lovely little town. We have 6 nights in a place called 1902 townhouse owned by two guys from the UK Pete and Martin. It’s just beautiful it has 6 rooms so 12 guests on 2 floors with a swimming pool out the back. Pete & Martin live in the beautiful building too. Each morning we are in for a treat a 3 course breakfast. Small portions but wow so tasty. Martin is the cook and Pete is the chatter and delivery of the beautiful breakfast. We have had something different everyday. Just today we had fresh OJ then granola yogurt then zucchini slice (yum) then waffles with mango. Of course coffee or tea. Pete is a wealth of information and recommendations of where to eat and go. Our room over looks the mountains which is just a wonderful view. Each room is different and beautiful decorated. We did sneak a look when a door was open.
So we have an BMW X1 nice car but the roads are so very narrow and so windy and some corners are so tight and the streets are so narrow. It has been a little scary on some roads. A lot of roads have so many cyclists on them riding up very steep gradients I think the island must be the training ground for up hill ascents. Even one day we came across a couple of guys going along the road on cross country style road ski shoes with large wheels they were powering along with great speed and the looked super fit. I was wondering what happens when they come to the downhill how do they manage that.
We drove down to Torrent do Pareis is it was a very windy road with huge bends and very steep, buses are going down as well it was all very tight. We went and looked at a beach called Sa Colobar which you walked through stone tunnels. Nice beach but stoney. On the way back we found a little town for some lunch with wonderful views over the valley and amazing mountain ranges. Guess what, Soller has a Japanese restaurant its not to bad either. So we generally eat there ,had one night at a tapas bar its was nice and one night well, last night we went to this restaurant run by a lady that is kinda in her house. She makes pasta. You have to book as not many seats she brings out the pasta she has made that day and a choice of sauce to go with choose some wine from a shelf. Sounds simple. Its pretty good, she was funny . She never writes anything down and some guests where just sitting there wondering if she is coming back to show them her pasta selection. Or like with us comes back and asks so what was you choice again. Its was a good dinner very funny really, she was nice lady. Soller has a lovely square with a tram that runs through the middle from the Port of Soller to Palma, very quaint.
We also checked out Polenca it was like all of the UK’s elderly had come to retire and decided that I need to get my gear off and head down to the beach no matter what shape I am in and lie in sun and bake like an eggplant. Lot’s of Germans also getting the all-over tan too. Only know that as we sat on beach for a bit watched and listened, as you do. Btw everyone thinks we are from the UK, so not. What is with that anyway???. We also had been recommended by a couple here at 1902 townhouse to visit place called Son Sera de Marina about an hour from Soller. Had great lunch on the beach a last swim in the Mediterranean sea the beach was actually sandy too. Great day, still so warm and the evening are warm too. Then we decided on the way back we need shoes we have been wearing our birks for months now well actually we are on to pair number 2 they get a little stinky after wearing constantly everyday. Well off to the out let shops, Tony scored a pair of cool shoes. Me I am more particular. Such a girl thing. So a quick trip into Palma found the ones, done. Our feet will be in shock.
Today we went and had lunch at this very pretty village about 20 mins from Soller, Fornalutx had a lovely simple lunch but the village is a photo moment around every corner. We also went and checked another little village Orient now that was a windy narrow roads just a little hotel and restaurant but ever so pretty.
We have loved being in Mallorca, so much more to see. Where Rafa’s house is in Porto Cristo didn’t go there. He probably wasn’t home anyway. Out playing tennis or getting some new undies to pick out of his bum, sorry did I just write that. But it’s true. He is getting married next month too so must be on the island somewhere.
Off to Paris for a couple of nights to wander the streets and blend in with my new shoes. No-one will notice when I can’t wear them any more cause feet haven’t adjusted to the enclosed feeling and the birks are back on them tootsies. Hopefully I have de -smelled them is that even a word. Another thing I hope it is not too cold. Will let you know in the next paragraph when I get there to tomorrow.
Bonjour Paris, we have two nights in a la petite airbnb place in the 9th arrisdonment. Its tiny the loft where the bed is you have to walk like an person with a crooked back to scramble into your bed. It use to be bakery. So the door opened directly on the street. Interesting but practical all that we need for our very short stay. We are recommended a restaurant two minutes walk around the corner. Bonhommie. Well, it was fantastic night the food was sensational. The staff were just amazing so friendly. We sat at the bar chatted to the bar tender making some cocktails drank wine and cocktails ate some tasty food from the kitchen you could see. Welcome to Paris.
Next day we have the whole day to fill in so what so you do be a Parisian and walk your butt off and that is exactly what we did. 22,000 petite steps mind you. We weren’t shopping at all just looking at the people the the sights and that is about it. It is so beautiful Paris.What makes it beautiful?. I think it’s the old architecture the Parsian apartments stacked up in those small streets with their pretty balconies. Its certainly crowded and you never short of finding a place to eat. You are definitely not going to starve. Might wet you pants because finding a toilette is such a chore and difficult when you a bursting. That is always when you are not familiar with your surroundings. I wish we had longer but we stuffed up our departure dates to leave Europe. 90 days for us Aussies is all we are allowed.
Btw I tell you a little secret I did buy a something and its starts with D, and I can put it on my shoulder. I will treasure it for ever.
We are off to USA today. Au Revoir Paris. It was short and sweet as usual. Till next time when you capture our hearts again.
You could travel a lot of just the occasional trip and your baggage will always be there when you arrive at that carousel. You think fantastic and carry on…
But what if someone on a ferry picked up your bag and you picked up theirs. So here is my story of that scenario. Ferries in Italy and here in Greece you put them in a holding area as there can be several stops. You are well away from the area and you have no idea what can and will happen to your bag. In Italy we caught the ferry back from Salina to Palermo no big deal get on stuff your bags in the area go sit down below. Getting off the ferry there is no order just chaos and get in, get your bag with out any kind of decorum. You can even get a hip and shouldered by the old and frail in a battle to get to that bag. So I am thinking in this moment things got confused. We got off, jumped into a taxi to go and pick up our hire car for the next ten days in Sciliy. So Tony just put it in the car and left it there as we didn’t need what those bags contained. So as the story goes we return hire car go to check in for flight to Athens. I am thinking, we are going to be overweight for sure. That is when that thought of, this isn’t my bag, this bag only weighs like 4kgs mine I remembered weighing something like 10 kgs and it was unlocked. So we keep checking in and have these thoughts of did the car get burgled but Tonys bag was fine so not plausible senario. When we arrived at Athens I tried to open the bag. I tried my combination but no. Tried obvious combo three 000 bingo, not mine. Saddness was seeping in as that bag had some things I need and have collected on the way. First thing email ferry company in Palermo. Slight relief has washed over me, my bag was there. Next thing how to get it to where we are going. Ok, so here we are 15 days after that moment. I still don’t have my bag. I couriered the other bag back to the lad that owned the other bag I had. Lucky he left his email address he lived in a town near Venice. Lucky lad. Just getting my bag picked up was a communication nightmare to say the least from the Palermo ticket office at the Porto in Palermo. I have been tracking my bag from Palermo. It went to Palmanova Italy then Sofia Bulgaria then Thealassio Greece now its on a boat from Naxos but it has been 3 days. The funny thing is when I put the order in with this company to do this they said 4 days. MMMMM…….. Will keep you posted.
We are not really a fans of Athens We find it grubby and just plain ugly city. We have been before and seen the Acropolis and the Plaka area that surrounds it. This time we stayed at the port Piierus as our ferry leaves early. Off to do some island hopping for the next month. First stop is Paros
Paros we came to about 6 years ago. We had a few days here and have some fond memories. We are staying at the Agronauta hotel right next to the port and the square. Really nice hotel. We are taken to our suite which was a few hundred metres up from the main hotel. It was really nice. Little balcony over looking the street. Beautifully decorated too. It was perfect for the next 4 days.
We hired a car, a little tiny smart car they are like a toy cars, so tiny. Drove around the island. Not many roads, we did all the coast roads. It was an automatic so I thought I would have a drive as Tony has been doing all the driving and he does a great job. Boy, can that man scream like a girl. Watch out your too close, you nearly side swiped that car and pinnacle of his hysteria was when I pulled out of side road and started driving on the wrong side of the road. Only noticed when a truck was coming towards us. So that was the end of my driving career . Such a short lived moment.
We found some beautiful beaches not the ones that are organised as the greeks would say. The water is so beautiful to swim in so clear and blue that just invites you in.
We ate at wonderful restaurants. One we ate in 6 years ago, we searched it out. But sadly the amazing man had sold it. We ate there anyway, it was ok. Not like when he was the host with all these photos of famous people that had eaten at his restaurant. We also lucked upon a restaurant that was on a balcony overlooking the white washed buildings and the copious shops below. It was French it was another yum meal. At night the streets are alive with the masses of people trawling the shops of tourist trinkets and clothing stores are all open to the wee late hours. It is so bright.too Shopping after a few drinks can result in random purchases. Not that I would do such a thing.Never, ever ……
We also went across to anti- Paros on the ferry. What a beautiful little island with so many gorgeous houses with amazing pools and sort after out looks. We liked it over there quiet and not to full on with the tourists. We aren’t tourist we are travellers. There is difference I am sure there is
A definition of a traveller:
A person who is travelling or who often travels. A nomadic person. A person who hold new age values with an unconventional lifestyle.
A definition of a tourist:
A person who travelling or visiting a place for pleasure
So I think we are somewhere in-between these definitions for this year at least and maybe beyond. We are loving this lifestyle of one continuous year of summer.
Off the track there a bit. But lets get back on track and will describe to you were I am sitting at this very moment trying to re-call the last weeks. The sky is a heavenly blue the air is warm and dry. The landscape is dry and rocky with a little church that is so white always perched on top of a hill. Boats of the wealthy parked in the bay. The sounds of the young at heart jumping off the cliff, with the screams of joy. The sound of bat ball game which is a very popular with everyone on the beach. The passing parade in front me of tanned bodies, young and old. The smell of the taverna above us cooking food that makes me hungry and I don’t even eat meat but the smell of a bbq can make that tummy rumble. So not a bad spot I wish you were here with me having that end of day glass of wine. Must be 6pm. life is wonderful
Next island is Naxos.
Naxos what can we say. First we are staying at the Plaka. A very nice sandy beach which has a view of the island of Paros. So it took maybe 45mins to get here by ferry. Before I continue I might have a little whinge about ferry terminals or the port area. I can’t understand why this isn’t better. The amount of people that are coming and going from these places is just extraordinary. They are filthy not enough shelter from the sun. No-where to sit waiting cause sometimes those ferries aren’t on time. Confusion on what area you should be in as there are several ferry companies. The signs are tiny or just hand written. Usually someone will be yelling out ferry boat such and such to this spot, go there. Why isn’t there some sort of digital board with this information, just crazy. The police officer with that dam whistle getting the cars to just get off and get out of the port area. People unloading like sheep off a boat.
Naxos is the largest in the Cycladic island group. Staying at Naxian on the beach. Arriving at this place was the most warmest welcome we have ever received the front of house lady was so lovely and her side kick he was amazing too. Kostos, he was from the Ionian Island. What a beautiful group of islands definitely on the list for our next visit .
The hotel has its own beach with organised day bed areas with a smattering of the other places that have umbrellas that you hire with a beach lounge. At least we didn’t have to pay extra it came with the room and the front row bam, thank you very much. The beach was beautiful to walk along sandy but busy with people getting that holiday tan. What we did find intriguing is that ones who love the all over tan with no bather marks suntan next to ones with bathers on their bits. No-one bats an eye lid. Sometimes I don’t need to see some of those bits all tanned. The jury is out on that one. Should the all over tanners come together in their own space or should they just be with the others?
We hired a car for a couple of days. It’s quite a big island with little villages in the middle on the bays with the tavernas feeding those hungry holiday tanners. As its hungry work tanning. Getting that shade of brown that makes your teeth seem so white.
We came across a lovely town that had some tavernas right on the waters edge. Apollonas, right at the very tip of the island. Greeks can do vegetables that are so tasty and the stuffed tomatoes and capsicum with rice and herbs always so very tasty with the greek salad of course . Fresh fish is nice but its very expensive, we had it a few times. I think the Mediterranean is pretty much fished out.
On our way back as it’s at least an hour drive we stopped at a bay which looked pretty and inviting, Petrino. Had the taverna right on the foreshore and few people swimming. Tony went for a walk along the beach while I read. There was this house right on the waters edge the white with blue doors and windows the bougainvillea cascading with its beautiful pink bracks. No-one home all locked up but what does he spy growing in the vegetable garden a marijuana crop and I mean not just a few plants. So opportunity arises do I take a little bud. Of course I do, they won’t notice. Ohhhh, yes they do, some bloke was tending to his crop and spied Tony bending down to take a sample. Tony spied him and left quick smart and hi tailed it back to where I was to tell the tale. Need to be quicker Tony……
We walked around the Chora every island has a Chora (main town) . Very touristy, not that interesting at all. We liked Naxos, fantastic island and you can find a beach that doesn’t have the hoards of people on them. We did find this great taverna next door to were we are staying. So if you go out into the kitchen area they have the traditional food stuffed vegetables stuffed squid all these dishes and that is just a few. Snails if you so desire. Just look amazing you just select from there. I tell ya, its the yummiest food it comes to you so quickly half litre of house wine in your little jug with your tiny glasses so it looks like you aren’t drinking to much, dinner is perfect at a very reasonable price too. Time to leave.
Next island to visit is Santorini.
We have been to Santorini before some 6 years ago. When we came then it didn’t feel as busy as it does now. I mean it is amazing coming in on the ferry and looking up and seeing those white building precariously perched on the edge . You wonder how in the hell is all that just staying there. It’s a sight to behold.
This time we are saying in Oia in a little cave room down many steps and narrow paths. You are surrounded by lots of little places some with their own little plunge pools. That wasn’t us. (sad face emoji insert here) But really nice though. The owners son would carry our heavy bags down many steps that are very steep and quite tricky to navigate. It had all the creature comforts well except for the caravan size tiny weeny bed. But it had air conditioning that was fantastic, as it is really hot.
The most intriguing event that happens everyday is sunset. Sunset happens everyday no matter where you are in the wonderful world and people do gather for an end of day drink and watch that fiery ball sink into the sea or behind a mountain sometimes you are left with the most beautiful after glow. It’s one of natures beauties.. In Oia it seemed like a crazy part of the day the people in the narrow streets shoulder to shoulder to find a perch early to watch the sun sink into the sea. Some people sit there for up the 2 hours before hand, just waiting as they think they have snagged the best spot and not giving it up for anyone. With a drink in hand and the camera poised .
One night we had dinner at this roof top restaurant had the best view it was beautiful. I must say. The other night we just sat outside our little cave room had some Prosecco and snapped the photos. That night we chatted to a family from Bulgaria staying in the room next to us. It was a lot of broken English but a really lovely family with this gorgeous little girl named Christina she was 3 and so cute. She actually spoke some English from being in a day care place in the UK.
We also caught the public bus to Thira to have a look around not that great, glad to leave really. Santorini we don’t think we will come back. It was awesome and great to experience again but your expensive to many tourists. Especially when you see 3 cruise boats parked in the bay all those people are going coming up its mayhem.
On to Folegrandros.
Just a short 45 mins ferry ride to Folegrandros pulling up to the port I think this is going to be awesome. Small port not many buildings. Our kind of place. We are picked up taken to Agali bay where you find Blue Sand Hotel and Suites. Perched up on the cliff over looking the bay it’s like we have arrived in heaven. We have small tavernas around us the smells of cooking is hard to resist. The water is so blue and heavenly. Boats of all sizes come in and out of the bay.
You can walk maybe 20 mins to another bay and again 3-4 tavernas and a shade for sitting under. The Greeks have this eating at the beach thing really sorted. Love it. We are here for 6 glorious nights here. BTW we are in the most heavenly room is so beautiful and has this lovely outdoor space. Nothing to want for.
We did hire a car and do a lap of the island only a few roads to be found. Did find a beautiful bay, an old fishing village. Went into Chora had a wander, many restaurants and little shops. But we love this little taverna just in front of our room the whole family are in there cooking. Mother, father, brother, daughter and yaya. Again in the kitchen you go in there you can see everyone working so hard and there is all this food cooked and ready to be served. We have been eating all vegetarian because its just so tasty it makes me hungry writing about this. The owners are just so lovely. Will miss there yummy food and genuine hospitality.
So far Folegrandros has been our favourite island. On to the next island, Milos.
We are very excited as we are meeting friends from Perth and Adelaide. This will be some fun times. Our first friend to arrive is Kathie from Perth. It was so nice to see her after planning this little get together last year when it was just a thought.. We have hired a house and a room in the Plaka the main town in Milos which over looks a church perched on the edge of the cliff and a small farm. Watching the owner come each day and feed his chickens and look after his property is always a joy to watch.
This time we have hired a Panda Fiat this will be tight getting all 5 of us in this tiny clown car. The next day Rob & Marjorie are arriving by ferry. So we have dinner at the port waiting and waiting for this ferry to arrive it was very late. Then finally did. They didn’t get off feeling green which we were surprised as the sea was very rough. So here we are friends who have known each other for some 40 years on a greek island on the other side of the world.
Lets go explore Milos and eat some yummy food talk some shit and generally have a great time. We ate one night in a village about 10 mins walk from the Plaka to a restaurant that had the best homemade traditional greek food. Everyones meal was amazing and the starters were so tasty. That jug of house wine just hitting the right spot.
Most days we would head out in Panda, boys in front and girls in the back rotating in between who is sitting in the middle like siblings would. In search of a place for lunch and a beach to have a swim at. How good is life when all you need to worry about is where to eat and where to swim.
One day we headed over to the other side of the harbour we could see buildings from our verandah. So lets go and check it out. We had a swim and then kept driving along the narrow edge of the cliff and then along a narrow edge were the sea was lapping at our tyres. So glad we had the panda as I don’t think we would have fitted. Wouldn’t you know it, a taverna is perched on the edge of the water in the middle of completely nowhere . We had a great lunch. As we sat there enjoying our delish lunch many others arrived to this little treasure too. But just for a minute we felt that we were the only ones that had found this little secret.
Also one day we joined a boat called Eleni and 25 other punters on a day cruise around the island. Going out was ok ,bit rock n roll just keep looking at the horizon all will be fine kept telling ourselves and it was. We pulled up into bays jumped overboard for a swim got back on and went to another cove were many boats had pulled up and not just the tourist ones. The rich and flithy rich had pulled up too Those boats or small ships are just amazing. It was lovely swimming through the caves and spending some time there, having lunch which was tasty. We motored to our end of tour destination but not before the waves seem to cascade all over us as we were plowing through the sea. Well, that’s what you get if you sit up front silly Australians. It was a lot of fun the crew and the bossy lady who was a wealth of information made the day run like clock work. It was a great day out exploring the perimeter of Milos the not so windy side. Those northerly winds are so strong over the summer period in Greek Islands.
We had such a great time with our friends so wonderful to see the familiar. As Rob and Marj carry on with their 3 month European vacation. Kathie is coming with us to Mykonos
Before we leave Milos I have to put to bed the story of my suitcase. Well finally after 21 days of travelling by it self on it own adventure around Europe we are finally back together again. I have had words with samsonite (sam) the suitcase not to go off with strangers ever again. Stay by your big sister Osprey. Samonsite(Sam) is very quiet why she was in Bulgaria and why did she island hopped on her own to other destinations that weren’t on the itinerary. Glad we all together again. Thats the main thing.
Off we go to Mykonos.
I am dubious about going here I have read so many things about this island that we didn’t really want to go. Its expensive for one. For Kathie it was on her list, so lets go. We went 6 years ago. Then it seemed fine where we stayed was so gorgeous the main Chora wasn’t cray, cray. As it is now.
Lets start with the place we staying its not were it is according to the directions we are given. We found it adventurely, it has a great view. You couldn’t put that against it. A little not like the photos a little worst for wear. It is what it is.
Mykonos is the windy rock of an island. We watched at least 4 cruise boats turn up each day and leave in the evening if each has 4 thousand people on them that is a huge influx of people each day. We stayed for 5 nights so that’s 20 cruise boats from different companies. Holly Molly.
We hired a car and went out to beaches in search of a shady beach which is near impossible. We dropped into one beach as Kathie was super keen on going to this shop in search of a dress she saw on instagram. We pulled up, that will be 20euro to park your car in the dust. Nope, no-way. So drove out and parked it in the free park and walked in. Well, it was beautiful the hostesses in their gorgeous dresses the security guards giving us the sideways look. The ladies arriving in beautiful kaftans that float past carrying these beautiful christian Dior tote bags. Mind you those tote bags cost 2,300euro. Kathie and I did the research. That is one crazy expensive tote bag to put your towel in. On the beach side the restaurant it was so luxe with tables and beds umbrellas all begging you to laze upon. Or swan around in the restaurant. We didn’t even ask how much. Kinda didn’t want to know. I don’t think the people coming into this place ask the price they just do and enjoy themselves and the other wealthy ones and compare tote bags and kaftans while drinking Prosecco. Certainly not us.
We did find a beach were you could watch the windsurfers and kite boarders the vibe was so different it was hard to compare. Apples to Caviar. We found another beach that had trees well the only beach on this rock. . One night we went down the hill and mind you it is very steep to the Chora from the house we had hired. Oh my, the buffed up boys with their partners it was overwhelming. They are all so good looking it was amazing to sit in a restaurant and just look at the passing parade. It was shoulder to shoulder or muscle to muscle. You kinda didn’t look at the ladies in their pretty summer dresses it was the boys that caught our attention. Enough about that. We are wondering what draws the buff and beautiful boys here?? Something that is only known to them.
We had a lovely time wondering and driving around the island. It was just so expensive. For example just the normal everyday greek salad a stable in every meal was from 16euro we have been buying it for around 4 euro so eating out was expensive and nothing very special. Unless you ate in some fancy restaurant were you might have to sell your house to eat in. It was an experience and it has been ticketed off the list.
bye Kathie
As we farewell Kathie as she heads back to winter in Perth her bag a little heavier with some purchases that have a story to tell.
We are heading to our last and final greek island Koufonisia an island that is next to Naxos so we have been in the Cycladic group and done a full circle.
Koufonisia is only 3.5kms long so tiny in comparison to the others we have stayed. When we pulled up in ferry it was like breathing in fresh air. Our kind of vibe. Small little village with some tavernas and fish restaurants. We are staying in a windmill. It’s so cute and views are to die for right on the waters edge. The sound of the waves lapping makes for great sleeping. Sunset is just there. Well, sunset from our patio was awesome in Mykonos too.
We have hired bikes as that is the only way to get around the island with its very few roads. We had lunch the first day we arrived in a taverna and after nearly a whole month this was the first time that they have had vegetarian moussaka was on the menu I just had to have that. I can report it was sensational. Also just down on the waters edge a few steps from our windmill is this fresh seafood restaurant. Only open in the evening. While we sit on the edge of the harbour on little blue chairs and table there seems to be huge schools of fish. We feed them our bread and the water comes alive. So there is some fish in the Mediterranean after all. We had dinner there last night lashed out and had lobster oh my, it was so good. Cooked on the charcoal very simply with olive oil and lemon with of course the greek salad and the jug of wine. Really not over greek salad yet it’s just so tasty every time. We will miss it.
We left Tel Aviv with a feeling that it had more to offer. So out of all the Middle East countries we just visited this is one we think deserves more time. It has so much to offer and is more liberal. People were friendly just felt it had a great vibe.
So we are off to Split, we have visited Dubrovnik a few years back . We have hired an airbnb place just out of Split old town. We pick up our little golf UP cute as but it has been a while since we have driven on the other side of the road and a manual. Tony had it, he’s a natural, thank-goodness. As I am not sure my brain operates back to front.
We pick up some groceries as we are or I am super keen to make my own food and not eat out. Always eating food that we don’t really want and don’t feel like.
We found our airbnb in a house that use to be one big old house right on the beach/rock shore line. It had been carved up into small apartments. It was perfect, modern nicely decorated and views of the ocean. Heaven, the best thing ever which is an on going pain in the preverbal is having a washing machine to wash our clothes.
The old town was 20 mins walk if you so desire. But it’s hellish hot. We found the free carpark and walk the rest. Huge mega yachts are parked at the foreshore being spit and polished for their clients. If only we could just have little sneaky look. As they look awesome. Could just imagine ourselves swanning around on the deck with a glass of bubbles. You can only dream…..
Walking around the old town was fascinating the long alleys with little bars and restaurants, the little shops with souvenirs and clothing stores. Balconies with flowers over flowing and shiny marble paths. Finding a place to eat. I know, I just said I wanted to cook and so we do but only one meal a day and usually dinner. Lunch is out. We found a restaurant that we went back to twice called http://www.Bokeria.hr has this great little text up on the walls and I quote
One of the nicest things about life
Is the way we must regularly stop
What we are doing and pay attention to eating
Yes, that totally correct so lunch most days is that. We both had the best bbq’ed octopus there and the way it was presented with a little charcoal smoke like it has just come off the bbq awesome, yum, yum….
We also went to Trogir another little town about 45 mins from Split for lunch and a swim. Gorgeous little old town with the same vibe of little alleys and shops and restaurants right on a harbour. But as we know don’t eat in the piazza its tourist food, its yuk so what do we do. Eat on the harbour awful, only thing good was the beer. Life is about choices. We choose so no-one else to blame here. But we had a beautiful swim after off the rocks as it was so, so very hot.
We also went to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Its a 3 hour drive to get there. We wanted to go to Mostar to see the famous bridge were the young and brave dive from. Well it was an interesting drive when google maps disappears and you can’t read the road signs. A few wrong turns on the auto Strada. We got to the border, check out of Croatia down a few hundred meters check into Bosnia with a small fee.It was all very civil and not intimidating at all. Smooth as. The country side was beautiful with grapes been grown everywhere. The homes were basic but similar. No wealth to be seen anywhere. We got to Mostar and snagged a rock start car park for a price but worthy of its convenience. It was so touristy like over the top. It was pretty in its own way, the bridge and pretty little buildings. No svelte young men in budgie smugglers diving with beauty into the clear crystal blue green river below . Apparently it only happens once a month, on a Sunday. Oh well, today wasn’t that day. Had lunch then we decided to search out a water fall on the way back to Split. The Kravice, with some wrong turns which didn’t matter as the country side was gorgeous . It was s stunning water fall many people there, so a quick photo and we are gone. Took the coast road back to Split. So beautiful all these coves we could of stopped and explored each one they looked so beautiful with their the little harbours. It took hours as it was a slow windy road. Another reason to return to explore more of Split it has so much to offer. We didn’t go out to the islands. All next time.
We drove up to Zagreb about a 3 hour drive to a nice modern little hotel in the burbs of old town Zagreb. We had to go the Australian embassy to get some paper work witnessed . Never been to an embassy before it was very impersonal . I would hate to go there if I was in serious trouble. As I am not sure they would have any compassion for you, very stern and no feeling of empathy. We had a nice couple of days in Zagreb wondering around visiting a few quirky museums . But two days was plenty we were ready to leave.
Time to leave Croatia with an another rush of excitement, Italy. We had an overnight in Zurich. It was simply beautiful flying into. Another country that we need to spend some time. Not just one night. We are heading to Puglia. After arriving into Bari picking up the rental car a Citreon C3 Aircross quiet big for our needs but very comfortable. We are heading to Polignano a mare. We have rented a little place right in the old town a bnb called dei Serafini.. We park outside in a carpark and a a guy on a bicycle cart type thingo comes and picks us up. Luggage and all we are taken into the old village right on the cliffs. Our little place is like a cave so very comfortable and unique and perfect. Breakfast is across the walkway and the signoras make this amazing spread every morning of cakes and fruit and coffee in this long communal table. In a very pretty room. Everyone would come and join you from the different bed and breakfast places this company owned and there was many. It was so lovely and unique experience every morning. We met some lovely locals as we struggled with our Buongiornos and Grazie Milles. Hey, there is nothing wrong with having cake for breakfast is there? The Italians do, so go with the flow we are thinking. We also met lovely couple from Toronto travelling with their daughters. Nothing like some tips for dinner as well as villages to visit, grazie mille…
We have been gone now on this adventure for nearly 6 months. We have met up with some other beautiful friends in NZ it was awesome. Nothing like meeting the familiar and the ones you have known forever. Tom & Marnie are here in Italy. We are excited. Seeing them and giving them a heart felt hug . We met them in the piazza by the church as all piazza have a church. Seeing a familiar face is awesome so good to see. We love the aperitvo hour. Everyone is out and about strolling and looking for a spot to have that aperol spritz with a little snack. Love this tradition so civil everyone is dressed and fresh and out to impress. After to many aperol spritz and negronis, dinner of pizza, what else, so good and della casa vino. As tomorrow night we have to dress to impress. As we are all going to Grotta Palazzese we booked it back in February. We were going by ourselves but so happy that Tom & Marnie could come as well and share this amazing moment. A once in a life time dining experience. Next day we drove down to Lecce to check it out it was a little disappointing to say the least it was terribly hot maybe we missed the hi-light of Lecce we aren’t sure. Its been ticketed off the list anyway.
Let’s talk about the hi-light and the experience to last a life time. We had a booking from 7-9pm at Grotto Palazzese. We all are a little sceptical of the whole experience as sometimes the location can be compromised by the food or vice versa. Let’s start first with a little history of this awesome experience.
In the past it was called Grotta del Palazzo (Palazzo Cave), since it was owned by a feudatory, and it used to be a fascinating eighteenth-century ballroom, a meeting place for the nobility of Polignano along the Appian Way. It was during the grand tours that the nobility would come and then more and more tourists would visit.
The whole experience the meal the ones we are with was worth every euro. The service was fantastic never felt neglected or looked down upon. There was plenty of space in between tables with their white cloths and table lamps. You could see that is was a place for families on that special event in life or for the couples on a romantic evening.
We loved it all. When 9pm came up, so quickly too we weren’t told to leave which was nice . So as we watched the sea and the sky change to evening hues drank some lovely Puglian wines ate this amazing meal that evenyone’s dish was delish. We left feeling that maybe our bank account may seem lighter but the memory will last a life time. This night will be with us forever and we got to spend it with some of our closest friends we have known for about 40 years. Grazie mille Bellas.
But as you do, we carried on after dinner and hit the latest bar to pop up in the piazza. It only just opened the night before and we snagged a table and watched the passing parade of beauties as the book festival was in full swing. Ahhh….love the Italian way
We also visited Matera the next day not a long drive from Polignano . We arrived and as the usual couldn’t find a car park, did a few laps, found one that was free, Yeah.. As we were walking towards the old town the streets were empty, people were lined up everywhere on the sidewalks waiting for something big to happen. It’s another boiling hot, sweaty day. We could see the church on top of the hill that something was happening and a street parade was about to happen we skipped that and headed down into the small valley of the Matera old town. Walked around and thinking lunch . We came across a small cucina. The outside wasn’t what brought us in, it was the only place open. When we walked inside the air conditioned cooled us down to stop the sweat dripping down out backs. The signora was in the kitchen she beckoned us over and she lifted the foil off these trays of food she had cooked that morning. We choose and two glasses of bianco vino. Tony got the lasagne I got the stuffed mini eggplants . OMG, it was the best food we have tasted and the glass of vino was like a home pour, enormous.. We are thinking this is our kind of place. We thanked the signora loving her food. Then she wanted us to have desert we said no, no……. But she gave us for free a slice of all her deserts. They were all the best, so good. We loved them not that we needed it or anything and then out she came with a glass of digestive. What an amazing lunch. But the best was she gave me the best heart felt hug, so genuine. It was beautiful. What a lovely signora. Bella, plus a little souvenir of her cuccina. Grazie mille.
We also visited Ostuni another very pretty town on top of a hill. Wondering around the small narrow alleys with so many doors to peoples story. Balconies with todays washing hanging drying in the wind. Freshly white washed walls. Another lunch moment is needed. We found the spot. We are kinda hungry so we order bruschetta one each I had the grilled vegetable on with mint on top, well that’s a game changer. Will keep that in my catalogue of tips of good food recipes. But the best bruschetta is onions cooked slowly in olive oil of course with oregano and small cherry tomatoes not to many. Now that was so good on this amazing bread made from semolina. That is in the catalogue for sure. Tony also had a orecchiette with rape leaves. Think mine is better with broccoli. But it was another awesome experience and the waiter was so nice he made the experience one to remember. We did buy something to be shipped home a quirky art ceramic piece from local artist. I hope that arrives home safely not damaged , finger crossed.
We did think about going for a swim as we drove along the coast line past Polignano. So disappointing the rubbish that is strewn everywhere the beaches are rocks people lying on them like seals coming in to get warm. The beach clubs that you have to pay to sit park and swim we never went to those. How ridiculous to pay to be on a beach.
We left Polignano and headed not far to Alberobello to a town that has over a thousand tulle. We had a little Tullo we had booked through airbnb. It was the sweetest little tullo the owner Loredana was the loveliest lady. Tom & Marnie were just down the road. We would meet each night at apertivio hour for snacks and vino. Then out for wonder to see what we could find for dinner. One night we found a very good pizza bar all the locals were there 5 euro pizzas. that’s amore. Simple, crust was tasty it was worth the wait. Another night we went to a restaurant that Loredana recommended that was just ok bit to tourisic but did the job more wondering more vino, birra then some music was happening in the piazza we listen then we got up and had a dance to much fun. A family did fabulous karaoke rendition of a popular Italiano song we had no idea what they were saying but we gave them a score of 10.
Supermarkets we have been to a few but Conad or (gonad) was really good as you could buy vino there ,well every supermarket you could buy vino sometimes was a hit and miss .
Today we are heading down to Gallipoli. To us its a strange to find another town called Gallipoli when Gallipoli in Turkey is an important and disastrous moment in our history. We had booked a place in an old palazzo called Atlas. It was full of quirky pieces of art and things. Our room was spacious with a beautifully painted ceiling that was done in 1903. Again it’s so very, very hot in Gallipoli. The buildings have a lot more patina than we have seen. Has a huge church with some beautifully painted ceilings and walls. During the day its like a ghost town. But soon as apretivio hour arrives everyone is out and about. The streets are full everyone is searching and wondering. It’s a lovely atmosphere. But still it’s very, very hot in evening. No breeze can be found to funnel into the alley ways. One day we drove out to The Cave of Poetry it was about an hour to the other side. The photos looked amazing. We found it, the water was clear and blue no rubbish piled up everywhere or floating in the sea. It was so beautiful swimming, so cooling and refreshing. We took the coast rode back to Gallipoli stopping and swimming in the beautiful waters were there was hardly a person to be seen. Our last stop was called the Maldivian beach. Well, we have been to the Maldives several times and the couple we met in Polignano said we should go. Ok, big mistake wall to wall umbrellas and beach chairs not a free spot that was a free beach. It’s a sandy beach I will give them that, but hell no. We walked ,we looked ,we left. Our time has come to an end with Tom & Marnie our apertivio hour won’t be the same. We hugged said our goodbyes we will see you in 7 months time. As we say good bye and they head to the Amalfi coast and we head to Tropea in Calabria a town the over looks the Tyrrhenian sea. After struggling to find this hotel I booked. We settled in for a two night stay. It was on a cliff with awesome views to Mt Stromboli we could see it puffing some smoke. It was a nice hotel .
As we are heading to Palermo on Sicily. The ferry ride is a short 20 minute ride. The drive from Messina to Palermo is a fast 2 hour Grand Prix race through many tunnels that are dark and not well lite. We are staying again in another Palazzo on the Piazza Marina which in its time was the largest of piazzas in Palermo. We park our car in this tiny garage and are taken up two floors to this massive apartment with three bedrooms. It was awesome so much room and wonderful kitchen and washing machine, tick, tick. Huge windows, and five little balconies. The owner Luigi was hysterical. Not that we ever met him in person but I spoke with him several times on the phone. What an Italian smoothie. His place was just wonderful. I hope he didn’t mind that I re-arranged his knick knacks. I couldn’t help myself. hahaha….He didn’t call me and say anything.
Palermo was interesting place the churches we went into were just amazing the art on the ceilings. The palace was ok. The street food was interesting if you are into offal style panini , yuk not that desperate. Cannoli of course was everywhere . The streets where very grotty though some of the buildings looked like no-ones cares for the outside but I am sure like Luigi apartment that it was a different story inside. We had some nice food there never felt unsafe or bothered. But the 2 days was enough.
So we are heading to Salina an island in the Aeolian group. Well, we are staying at Hotel Ravesi in Malfa it just beautiful, the staff the space the wet edge pool is perfect. Its just a short walk down to the rocky foreshore for a wonderful swim in the clear blue ocean. We met a man who was diving for sea snails well that’s what they looked like a shell fish type creature that you leaver off the rocks with a knife. What a nice man, his English was good enough that we could have conversation about his connection to Salina and what he had harvested from the sea and how he was going to cook them. As we gathered from him that a lot Malfian left in the 1950’s going to Australia mainly Melbourne and America. To make a better life. We had met earlier in our Israel journey with Intrepid Justin, his family was from the exact town we are in right know. How small is this planet, sometimes you just wonder.
We hired a car one day and and did a drive around this magical place. Went to Marina Salina where the ferries come in. We found an awesome place for some lunch not many there it was delicious tuna pasta and fritti misto and of course the famous cannoli, so good. Then this table next to us broke out in a acepella singing this beautiful song in Italian it was just magical . Thats amore…
At Hotel Ravesi each evening at 6.30pm was aperitivo hour has become our favourite time of the day. Carlotta the nonna would make this awesome selection of yummy food to have with your cocktail . It was so tasty . Sitting there watching Mt Stomboli puff some smoke in the distance drinking your negroni and having a snack how Italian can we become. Each night we would walk up the main street to the same trattoria their food was just so tasty. I think my own cooking at home is more Sicilian when I come to think of it, just love it. The lady that owned the restaurant was from Melbourne she was married there and lived in Geelong for 15 years before coming back and opening her restaurant, they had returned to paradise I think.
All things do come to an end we are sad to leave but we have awesome memories of this place. Just loved it.
We returned to Sciliy and our first stop is Scopello a small fishing village about an hour from the Palermo airport. Really nice piazza nice host we met for our accommodation but really it does disappoint us that photos they put up aren’t anything like the room you are given. Grrr…. It’s ok. The restaurants are yummy and that’s the main thing. We did do a walk in the national park. So 5 euro to park your car in a paddock then its 5 euro to enter the national park of Reserva della Zingaro. Righto…. So we start walking in the sun its very hot as we walk along the edge following the others on a journey to bottom of the cliff to perch on some rock. You could walk 20 mins to first cove but no, we think no-one will want to walk the hour to the next cove. Wrong, we arrive at 11am its packed to the rafters every rock and nook and cave are taken with a sea of umbrellas in a colourful display. We found a nook amazingly, made spot and tried to get comfy on them rocks, which is skill to organise under ya bum. The water is blue and clear and refreshing. After some time bum can’t take it no more, time walk the hour back. Sweating and just feeling really so dam hot. There is one place to visit in Scopello is a famous old tuna factory which is owned privately now but has this iconic pink building down at the sea front Tonno di Scopello . So its 7 euro each for pleasure to go down and sit on a chair if you desire on the paved area and swim in the water that lapped at the front. So many boats parked out front from small little fishing boats to the massive ships for the rich and famous.We did see the Packer boat out there one day. It was all very nice.
A little history about Tonno di Scopello
The complex, naturally protected by the two stacks, was also guarded by two watchtowers, one from the Middle Age and the other from the 15th century.
Tonnara date back to the 13 th century. Over looking each side are two towers.
Between the 15th and 16th centuries, after the acquisition by the Sanclemente family, the Tonnara underwent considerable changes. The family arranged the works for the construction of additional spaces, which, together with the old nucleus, make up the baglio of the Tonnara.
Later the whole complex was left to the Jesuits. Additions to existing buildings were carried out, such as the small church, the warehouses for the boat storage and the building used for the accommodation of the fishermen.
In 1874 several families, among which the Florio, won the Tonnara in a public auction. The Florio family increased the fishing productivity, thanks to a good administration and the use of better fishing tools. The “Palazzina Florio”, precisely, was commissioned by the family to lodge the administrative offices. The Tonnara di Scopello tells the tradition of the local economy in a unique landscape, surrounded by Sicilian nature and its crystal-clear water.
We left there and are heading to Trapani which according to the map is maybe an hour or less away. On our way there we spotted a huge mountain or very large hill with a village on top. So we headed up to the hilltop town of Erice. Very pretty quiet village or course with many churches of different dominations. We had a lovely walk around but it was quiet steep and the paths are made from marble so slippery I guess with years and years of carts people walking them has made them smooth and polished. It was always a laugh if we were going to go hand over tit….. Thank goodness we didn’t. Made it down to the very windy town of Tranpani our next stop. Room mate hotels. In a beautiful palazzo, well we got one room it was gorgeous but we got an up grade for the second night. Wowsers, it was very opulent with its so very high ceilings and fabric covered walls and gold furniture and mirrors and a huge chandelier. Felt very king and queenie, hahaaa…
Trapani was and ok to wonder around for a few hours but we decided to go and check out San Vito lo capo. On the way we think they were marble quarries the hills were being gouged out on what looked like white marble. It looked something from Egypt where slabs of stone are cut from hills. San Vito lo capo was one big holiday town the beaches were a sea of colourful umbrellas touching each other. Streets full of cafes and places to eat. Owners vending for your company to enjoy their food. We were there in the afternoon imagine at apertivo hour people strolling looking so tanned and dressed in lovely summer dresses looking for that aperol spritz perfecto spot to watch the passing parade and chat with joy about the days goings on. We enjoyed a gelato but there is a thing that you put gelato inside a brioche bun. Haven’t had the pleasure of this treat it all just looks wrong for some strange reason. A bun with gelato, what the…..
We left Trapani only to travel a very short distance to Marsala. The home of Marsala wine or liquor . We have tried but I am not sure this was something we love. The only time we used marsala is in cooking so drinking it as a drink seems weird. The town seems nice enough with a stroll around the central area. Staying in another palazzo with a beautiful walled garden. Lovely room, beautiful breakfast. Oh yeah, breakfast in Italy. Cakes and more cakes even chocolate cake, tarts, sweet pastries, sugar and more sugar. Still can’t get use to it and we have been in Italy nearly month. It all looks amazing but in our mind its says no, that is so wrong to have cake for breakfast again.
last dinner in Marsala we are sent around the corner to a trattoria de pinto a family run kitchen that has been going for over 50 years. Not much English spoken at all. We were lucky to snag a table, really. Very popular with the locals. But they had a help yourself table of antipasto it was so good. We ordered some vino, Bianco della casa and just love it comes in a jug . I had spaghetti de sarde which is with sardines. Tony had a risotto of seafood. It was all so delicious the best food we have had. We were sitting next to the kitchen and the plates coming out looked so good. You could also choose your fresh fish or lobster etc. Really well priced. Goodbye Marsala has been fun.
We had a big drive today to Agrigento for a night or two. We wanted to see the Valley of Temples which was a collection of 8 Ancient Greek temples from the 5-6th century. It’s a UNESCO site since 1997. The most impressive was the temple of Concordia. It was extremely hot day but very interesting as well. We had booked into a little BnB but finding it was so hard we did several laps around the one way streets getting a little snitchy with each other as you do out of frustration. But after a few more laps we released if he had mentioned a name of hotel nearby everything would have been so easy. The place was certainly over the top Italian decor so we decided to stay one night. Had a great walk around the old town which was close by in search of dinner. Really warm at night. Did come across a vending machine for cannabis how interesting, but it was almost empty. Really expensive we thought. That was funny. obviously the good stuff was taken….
Next village we headed to Ragusa a hilltop town with origins dating back 2 millenniums , now that’s old. With occupation of arabs some of the time from 848 AD to the 11th century. In 1693 Ragusa suffered a huge earth quake the village Ragusa Ibla was rebuilt to what you see today but they decided the village is to be built on the other side of the valley as well known as the Ragusa superiore . In 1863 an asphalt mine was discovered and it is still working today. We found an awesome place to stay in an old building which just been renovated that use to be a farm house as the animals did live below which is now the restaurant. We had a lovely walk around and watched a Italian wedding on the steps of the cathedral of San Giorgio . Driving off in the little fiat bambino with cans attached. So cute… We had another awesome dinner at a trattoria, so tasty. Very pretty village not to busy with tourists either, really liked it.
We are heading to Cefalu (chef-a-loo) on the coast about an hour from Palermo to have two nights on the coast to do some laundry which is a chore but has to be done. We seem to focus on does it have a washing machine is there a laundrymatt close by. Driving from Ragusa to Cefalu we decided we needed to see Mt Etna, well we did in the distance. The temperature outside was 40 degrees so we kept on driving around the bottom. Mt Etna wasn’t doing anything not even puffing out any smoke. So it just looked like any other mountain but landscape below was very dark with volcanic rocks and very low trees and shrubs. We drove through the national park so green and lush and so much cooler only 23 degrees. Just beautiful.
Cefalu was a very busy holiday town the passing parade of people on the esplanade was shoulder to shoulder. So many restaurants it had a very busy vibe to it. We found an awesome restaurant opposite the Duomo de Cefalu which was built by Roger II of Norman. A beautiful church which backed onto the promontory of Hercules a 270m high rock face as it was known to the the Phoenicians. Last night in Cefalu we also went to this amazing restaurant the food was so beautiful we felt so spoilt in this gorgeous modern court yard. The service was impeccable the food was so different and modern. A fabulous last night of the month long Italian adventure. We are ready for a change of the diet from pasta, pizza and cake. We loved it all but not sure the waist line did.
Leopard, how beautiful is she sitting there in the tree
Well we left South Africa on a great note our stored luggage arrived at the gate by this great couple. We left it them for all of time. Fantastic service. www.travelwithease.com
Lets start the next adventure we are heading to Cairo, Jordan and Israel. On a tour with Intrepid. So we are flying from Johannesburg to Cairo over night on Egypt Air . Its a dry flight, Bummer. But we had a few drinks in the lounge before we left, win, win I guess. Such an old aircraft and such grumpy air hostesses. Very grotty which is a theme that will occur throughout our whole stay in Egypt. We booked a transfer with a pickup in a Mercedes . We just waltzed through customs with this guy it was so easy. The drive to our hotel was so funny. We booked in at Mena House at the base of the Giza pyramids. Driving through Cairo at 6am in the morning was very subdue and peaceful for Cairo as they are in the Ramadan time they have 8 more days to go before Eid the festival to celebrate. When we first clapped eyes on the pyramids, it was a huge wow moment. We were taken back on how close they are to the city and our hotel was just there.
We have four relaxing days at Mena House situated on 40 hectares of garden. Just a little history about Mena House it was once a holiday home back in 1888 then it was sold a couple of times to become a guest house then a hotel and was used during world war 2 as a hospital. It has the best view from the breakfast restaurant. You could just about reach out and touch it.
The hotel had a great pool area. Which we spend the afternoon hanging and reading and just relaxing in the very hot temperatures. It was great but boy do they slug you for GnT or a Stella beer the local Egyptian beer.
One day we thought we would go and do a guided walk around the Giza pyramids. We had a great guide he was super funny, had us doing all the tourist shots. We had a great couple of hours with him. We went inside the smaller pyramid and the care taker or hustler which ever you may think came in with us. We were the only ones in there going in backwards in a very low tunnel towards the burial chamber. He took our phone, well we gave it to him to take photos. Going through the tunnels I think he has done this a few thousand times. Then when we get the the burial chamber it was large and spacious with the red granite sycofugus . He was taking all these photos It was discovered in 1888 by an Italian Berconloni
But the hustler needed a tip which really is a pain in the ass but we gave him a few pounds. It was all fun. Just he was the winner out of this.
Btw it was really hot and steamy in there.
Walking around the pyramid you are so in ore of these structures, how they build them over 2500 years ago. The blocks of stone are just enormous how they stacked them. The Pyramid of Cheops was the more perfect looking one the son and then the grandson ones weren’t as perfect neither were the the wives they all got smaller. Not as important. Not stacked with such precision. The tombs of the workers are scattered around the pyramids too.
Then we get to have a look at the Sphinxs wow, wow. Just amazing again. Sitting there protecting the pyramids. In this dusty sandy hot desert.
Today we join the rest of the adventurers and meet up at a downtown hotel. OMG…. WTF ,it was horrendous. I don’t think it was a 3 star more like a 1 star it was horrible and we have two nights here. We have a young couple nearly engaged from Sydney. Another young couple so much in love from New Zealand. Wait for it, a family from USA, Mother bear and her cubs with uncle bear. Oh Lordy this will be interesting. Our guide is Sam a very worldly guide. Super nice and considerate and patient. So Sam would call his group Family
So Now Family, was the first thing he would say each day.
Now Family, went back to the Giza site again and had another look around while family took the photos and explored inside the smaller pyramid. Rode camels which we were certainly not doing. While we watched the family go for their little jaunt on the camels a lady from a different group was bitten on her calf buy a camel. It looked so meaty and blood every where poor lady. Dont think this is usual thing. But seriously those poor animals.
Once we were done with out exploration of the pyramids and the sphinx we found a little spot to get a snack as it was Ramadan most of the eat places where closed. It was pretty average falafel salad. Before we headed to the Egyptian museum. It was packed to the rafters with mummies and artifacts. Of huge proportions and sycoficus and King Tut’s stash from his tomb. It was all so fascinating but you would need hours and hours to look at everything. It was all pretty old school style of museum. We did drive past the new museum building being built to house all these artefacts and the ones that they have in storage too. Apparently they want to get back the ones that other museums have from around the world. Good luck with that.
Tonight the family is taking the train down to Aswan a 13 hour trip on a train. I tell ya, it was one very long overnight rocky train ride not much sleep. Pretty grotty again. Same theme here, grotty dirty. The on board loo was bad but have been in to worse toilets it was the smell. Yuk ……
So off to the next hotel in Aswan on the Nile and I think the top temperature was 45 degrees. It was so hot. Tonight we are going across the Nile to a Nubian family home for dinner.The Nubian’s come from Sudan. These moments I love to experience the home cooking of the family and helping them by coming to their house supports them and their family. food was delicious the host JJ was really lovely and told us his story of getting married Nubian way. Were they invite every one I mean every one, he had 2000 people at his wedding that went all day and night. That is just crazy, everyone brings food form live animals to other produce to be prepared to feed the masses. Mind you he hand delivers all the invites. Good job JJ.
Next day the family gets up at 4am to leave at 4.30am to drive the 3 hours to Abu Simbel. Abu Simbel was moved to its present position in the 60’s because a dam was being build and the flooding of the Nile. They pulled it all apart then moved it piece by piece into it present position. It was a sight to see and be inside of just another in ore moment. How they made such monuments to the after life is beyond me. The carvings and the enormity of it all. The stories inside on the walls. One tomb was for Ramesus II and his favourite wife Nefertitti. We stayed there maybe 45 minutes another feriously hot day of 42 degrees just melting out in the sun. Then another 3 hours back. Wow a huge day of driving.
Next day the family is going on a Felucca so the night before we order a few drinks to have on board. We ordered a bottle of Gin and Tonic and water. Always buying water its crazy. We boarded quiet early around 8.30am with drinks we have 3 crew members. A captain a cook and another deck hand, I guess you would call him that. We all climb aboard, it’s extremely hot again. The sails are hoisted and we zip zag down the Nile catching the breeze and floating along with quite a strong current. We sat on mattress covered in rugs and cushions in the shade. Chatted about lots of different topics. It was all very relaxing. So lunch was all prepared on board all vegetarian it was good food. We cracked the gin & tonic it had a very strange smell. We think it was actually arak. So not much alcohol content as Tony and I drank the whole bottle in small tea cups. With no alcohol affect what so ever. Ripped off again. When will we learn. Never, I am thinking, it was cheap as too, local rubbish . We stopped and swam in the Nile jumped off the boat it was quiet cold but a very welcoming dip to cool the body down after another delicious meal. They lit a fire on shore had a local drumming sing along thing going on. All was good fun but very hot. Sleeping, I decided to sleep on the deck on mats it was super hard but there was a warm breeze blowing, downstairs on the mattress most people slept it was boiling down there and stuffy. Tony slept down there. While I was up on the top deck. So many cruise boats going by. Then at 3am the call of pray started omg, please stop, but no, it was going for a good 30 mins. As at 3.30am it is the last time you can drink water or eat food if you are participating in Ramadan until sunset which was usually at 6.50pm. All went quiet. Peace prevails. In the city it seemed fine but out in the county side it seemed so loud.
Now family we are leaving to Luxor another fabulous bus ride of 4 hours…..not. Today is the hottest day I have very experienced. 47 degrees. We arrive at another super average grotty hotel. The sheets are clean its just the rest. Eek………. In the afternoon Sam had us going to Karnack Temple. It was so hot the sun beating down on your skin and the sweating. Another omg wow moment, what a place the columns and the obelisk, what a truly amazing place that was never finished. The obelisk made of red granite how they got them there and erected got me baffled.. I just wish it wasn’t so hot cause you really could stay there a lot longer. Heat stoke was a very possible thing as one of the younger ones experienced.
Next day the family are taken to the Valley of the Kings. To see where they found King Tuts tomb and several hundred others. The ones we went into were so beautifully preserved the colours so bright. Going inside deep down was like going into a sauna. Sweating was definitely a thing in there. We went inside the King Tut’s tomb, you know I wish we didn’t pay the 300 pounds ($25 Aussie dollars) to go in, cause it was a little disappointed. His mummy does remain in there and the stone sarcophagus. There are no paintings on the walls or hieroglyphics, nothing. It was small too. Plus all the gold treasures are in the Museum in Cairo.
After the most fascinating exploration of this area which was great and we loved it . The family are taken to another locals house for lunch and another beautiful family. The food was sensational the best we have had. The rest of the day to relax before family is going back again on the train back to Cairo. Goodbye to the young ones as they depart home or forward on their own adventures. Momma bear and the cubs and uncle bear are coming with us to Jordan. Said goodbye to Sam he was a great guide, we wish him luck on his up and coming proposal to his Aussie girlfriend form Brisbane. If she says yes to the ring she will come and live in Egypt. Good luck with that.
We flew out to Amman, Jordan part 2 of this adventure begins..
Very quick flight to Jordan had a great meeting with an Intrepid guy at the airport that got us through customs very quickly.
We all pilled into a van with mamma bear and the cubs and uncle bear. To stay in the centre of Amman the old cultural section of town.
We all went out for falafel and met the rest of the travellers for this part of the adventure. We have the Germans. The English rose, the Hawaiian and the momma bear and her cubs and uncle bear and us, so a big group
We are heading to Wadi Rum for 2 nights, its about a 3 hour drive to this landscape that can only be described as barren, spectacular sandstone cliffs towering over a red sand oasis. This land is owned by the Bedouin Tribe these people are nomadic people. Some still carry on this lifestyle some have set up permanent homes.
We are all allocated jeeps 3 of them. We are in Mohammad’s jeep who happens to own the camp we are about to stay in. He is quite and a handsome man with his red and white head scarf and his grey thobe . We are taken around to different locations to view these incredible views and canyons.. View ancient text and drawings on the walls. Have mint tea. Which we both really love and so simple just spearmint leaves in black tea with a little sugar. Who knew it could be so tasty.
We arrive at the camp site of black camel hair huts. With a common eating area and even bathrooms, luxury. We watched the sun set. The cook had prepared for us dinner which was chicken and vegetables cooked in the ground in a giant camp oven, also the usual fair of hummus, salad, Lentil soup and rice. It was all very tasty. The rooms were basic but comfortable it was a very warm night.
The next night we are up at he crack of dawn to do a 10km hike around with mint tea and biscuits. Prepared by Mohammad or hammad he liked to be called. He was only 31 and had a 25 year old wife and two kids, one was just 4 days old. He said in 5 years time he will be looking to have another wife. Ok,…….that’s intense to have enough money to support all of the wives and children he can have up to 5 wives if he so chooses. Is he a lucky man. Not in my eyes.
So Hutsi our guide was so worried we would be bored in the camp with nothing to do after the hike so he busily organised a trip Aqaba on the Red Sea. To go out snorkelling with a bbq lunch.
So it was about an hours drive to Aqaba. We pull up at the port to this huge boat with an upper story and huge front deck and back. Very spacious.
We snorkelled in the sea which had an amazing coral reef very close to shore. But what was so strange that there was huge amounts of pink jellyfish everywhere . They didn’t sting you at all. You could pick them up. We have never swam in them before it was really weird. Also we went snorkelling over a plane they had sunk and an army tank. That was super interesting. It was a great day out on the red sea where Saudi Arabia, Israel, Jordan and Egypt meet.
Back to the red sand camp of Wadi Rum for dinner. Quite a few films have been filmed here one being, The Martian, maybe a few Star Wars as well.
Today we are driving to big hi-light of Jordan Petra, we arrive around lunch time after having a fabulously fresh falafel roll for only 1 Jordan Dina which is about $2 aussie dollars very cheap. Everything in Jordan is expensive.
We leave our bags at the hotel an go for an afternoon guided tour with Hutsi. So from the gate to The Treasury building is about an hour walk past tombs through the rocky pass of the La Siq to finally arrive at the entrance of gateway to seeing The Treasury building. OMG…..the tourists the camels the horse carts carrying fat lazy people at a cracking speed through the rocky valley pass of La Siq back to the entrance gate. Hustlers it was chaotic the place we arrived at. Not what I had imagined. But it was totally a wow moment for sure. The colour of the sandstone was beautiful.
Next day we decided with the English rose to get up early and head on down before the crowds decend to get that snap. We did. Tick next was to climb up and up and up to the Monastery we weren’t going to do it but while your there might as well slog it out. It was well worth the sweating and the dodging of the donkey poop and the smell . Tick again. Next on the list was to attempt the path that you can look down on the treasury so its probably around midday, the sun is beating down and a trillion steps to walk up. We did it. Pat on the back for us. Of course when you get to the top Bedouin has built a little hut right in the perfect spot to take the shot. So we enter, buy a drink have a relaxation and breather on the cushions, crawl to the edge to precariously take the shot, no safety here. Its just a cliff face. Great view though it was worth the trillions of steps up and back the sweating and the beating sun on our backs. That day we walked for 8 hours did 20kms . Left at 7am got back to the hotel at 3pm for a quick shower and rest before dinner.
Today is a drive to the dead sea which is 420m below sea level. What a strange feeling floating in this super salty water. Your skin kind of felt oily not sure that the salt was drawing the oil out of your skin who knows. You could spend 3 JDs and put black mud all over yourself. Pass……
Apparently it wonderful for the skin the ones who applied said it made their skin all smooth. There was plenty of places selling this mud. In fancy packages. Another tick off the list.
We also travelled to Jerash a remarkable Roman ruins from 2000 years ago. Being at it pinnacle in 130AD under Hardirans rule. Just needs some government support in preserving these places . Here was amazing mosaics covered in dirt just need a good sweep and Rubish collected. Bit sad really. I really don’t understand when so many tourists come here. Even our guide Hutsi is a guide here when he was not doing Intrepid tours. He grew up with huge fascination for the ruins and was very knowledgable. We stayed in the city of Madaba food was ok but a few of us had a bit tummy trouble. I am sure if it was the food or the water. Soon as we left all felt better.
We cross the border in to Israel today. So bye, bye momma bear and the cubs and uncle bear. Nice knowing you but…… To English rose she was such a nice person, bye to you.
The Germans the Hawaiian and us all crossed the border so its 10 JD each to cross. After they take your passport, stamp it, we board a bus but hang on, no passport. Once you are on the bus you’ll get it back, who knows what they were doing with them very strange indeed. We cross the Alenby bridge crossing. We go to a much more ordered and cleaner area. You get a piece of paper in your passport not a stamp as some countries won’t except you if you come knocking at the gate. If you have been to Israel. While we are waiting inline to get all this down a Chinese group are there. The tour leader is just screaming at them grabbing them by their clothes pushing them in the cue treating them like kids. It was to funny. But maybe they are use to such demeaning treatment.
Israel part 3 we are picked up by our driver Henry and taken into Jerusalem to a really nice hotel for 4 nights. Thank goodness. Driving in was such contrast from the dirtiness of Jordan with its rubbish everywhere. Our hotel was modern and so much nicer compared to what we have been staying in. The shower was amazing. Small things. We even got a fruit bowl. Wow, loving it already. Looking at the people on the street women aren’t required to have knees and shoulders covered either as much. I saw girls in shorts and shoe string tops. So different to what I was expecting.
We are joined by a teacher from Toronto, another teacher from Canada and ex Mormon from Idaho plus an Aussie from Melbourne he does the media content for Intrepid. Our new guide is George.
Here we go, 6 more days to go, we are pretty much done with scheduled touring its wearing a little thin now.
Let start with George, mmmmm…….different style of guiding that’s for sure. Casual, not as well informed as our other guides. Certainly is a nice man.
Feeling like we are on a religious pilgrimage now we are in Jerusalem. Seeing were Jesus is supposedly born and arrested. Mary’s immaculate conception when she got the news the spot where she gave birth which is now the a church of Nativity. I can’t really believe that story but going by the people doing many do . Even a path of crucifixion marked on the walls. Really……..
The Wailing wall was very interesting. The Jewish men with these little boxes on their heads and the curls and the black clothing and the moving back and forth reading and wishing. What got me is that they don’t work what so ever. Never ever. The government support them and their families. Another interesting fact is that they only have sex when a child is wanted in the family no sex for pleasure, no, no, no…….
We also went to the Dome of the Rock Mosque. So colourful. I must say mosques are always so colourful with the tiles and the gold dome very interesting. we weren’t allowed inside, did ask but got a firm, No.
We also did a trip to Bethlehem to the Walled Hotel. Right next to the the giant concrete wall between Palestine and Israel. They don’t ask questions going in, just going out. Just in case you might be smuggling out a local.
The Walled Hotel had lots of Banksy art inside very cool. Great graffiti on the wall with some very interesting statements.Graffiti has filled the walls in Bethlehem by many artists over the years, including British Artist; Banksy. We also past the largest refugee camps in the West Bank and previous conflict hot spots.
Back to the Dead Sea again but before we get to have another float we go to Masada. In Masada you take a cable car to the fortress built by King Herod around 35BC very important to the Jewish people, a symbol of their exile from the Holy Land and of bravery and self- sacrifice. The story goes that here a Jewish sect called the Zealots held out against the Roman army in AD66. Rather than surrender, they either fought to the death or committed suicide, every last man, woman and child. Thats a up lifting story isn’t it
We do go the hometown of Jesus too, Nazareth. Nice town had the best food there in a cafe down from our hotel. We are slowly now edging our way towards Tel Aviv thank goodness. I think our guide is pretty much done too he is a little touchy.Like he is hang angry, hahahaaaa…..
While heading to Tel Aviv along the coast we drop by at Caesarea, which served as the capital of Israel during the Roman and Byzantine eras. This was once a great port town built by King Herod around 25BC, complete with a theatre, amphitheatre, hippodrome, palace, Roman temple and an extensive network of aqueducts, along with an artificial harbour. The city was eventually abandoned and lost under the desert sands, but thanks to archaeological excavations since the 1950s, its splendour is on show once again. Pretty good for roman ruins.
Next stop is Jaffa now George is getting seriously more on edge. We have an hour and its seriously hot to have lunch. We found a cool alley with a cool tunes. Had some yummy food and managed to buy some sandals . I can multi task.
We say goodbye to George and we have 2 nights at quiet a nice modern hotel. Searched out a laundry matt. Tony went searching for small Schekels I got accosted by a huge jewish man on roller blades telling me bla, bla..bla got the domestic part done. Went down to the beach which is so busy with super buff males and very sexy ladies. Has great cosmopolitan vibe. Had sunset drinks hunted down some Japo food. Life is good.
Let’s start with our last day in Kathmandu before we get onto our next adventure.
We got the call that we were flying by helicopter over base camp. We had tried before but weather was not favourable. But this time it did seem like things were happening we had a pick up at 5.30am. We felt like we had been up all night with the revellers at the night club directly across from our hotel. The Roadhouse was only 6 months old and beautifully done with a fabulous cafe next door. But downside party town right across the road. I think they shut off the music when we were being picked up. In hindsight should have stayed were we were. Lesson learnt. Or the hotel could issue ear plugs in your room.
We are at the airport by 6am that’s when it opens we are weighed which is like what the……… I weigh that much? All happening we are flying with a group of 3 others from Hungry. We are all excited by this adventure of 3-4 hours . The weather in Kathmandu is hazy as usual. Really thought we weren’t going to take off. I bagged front seat for the flight up. It was such an interesting flight over the mountains that had been carved out like rice terraces. For growing crops. Shepherds perched on top of valleys with their flocks of yak or sheep. The further we flew towards Mt Everest the more barren the landscape became. So beautiful as well as majestic, with the mountains coming into view when we banked around corners.
View from Mt View Hotel at 3600m
Our first stop with Lukla to drop off some fuel that will be needed to get back to Kathmandu. At 2860m. So just a very quick stop. We are heading now to Kaarrapthur which is landing spot very close to base camp. First we have to drop 3 of the passengers off at Namche Bazaar for about 15 mins as the helicopter can only take a lighter load up to 5600 m. So we leave the Hungarians. We are off, we do a fly over base camp which has 500 trekkers there waiting for May 2nd to start climbing. All with yellow tents camped on the side of the glacier. Crazy the amount of people there and the rubbish and who knows how they deal with the poo and wee issues. That makes your mind wonder on how doesn’t it. When the landscape is all rocks and so, so barren.
We got out for around 10 minutes tried to take the photo but the sun was right in the way. It was a beautiful blue sky morning with no wind. It didn’t really even feel cold or the air feel thin. We were in total awe of looking at Mt Everest and thinking we are 3000 m from being at the top of the world. It was something I must say. We said we would never trek up there. We did see the trekkers walking up this narrow path from one tea house to the next. It wasn’t really floating our boat at all.
We flew to the Everest View Hotel and had breakfast had a beautiful view of the mountains. We were so lucky with the weather.
It was such a memorable morning will remain with us for ever. A once in a life time experience to do and see. An awesome way to depart from Kathmandu.
We flew overnight through Doha the whole trip took nearly 15 hours felt a bit yuk when we finally arrived in Johannesburg.
Aweh, South Africa
Today we are flying to Zimbabwe to Victoria Falls on Zambezi River with Zambia on the other side. To stay at Bantoka Lodge. Felt like we had arrived into a retirement village. So many old people. Not that we are young but hey we aren’t that old. First off we have a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River with drinks and snacks that was really nice and met a charming couple Julie & Craig (I think, sorry if I got that wrong).they were from Sydney. Really nice couple they had travelled more in Africa than we had and it was so interesting to hear their adventures and what animals they had seen. Tonight we saw some lovely birds and a bloat of hippos so lovely. It was a good introduction to South Africa. We also had a guide take us to the Falls. Probably didn’t really need that. It was so misty at the falls with so much water it creates this cloud above the falls. The sound was fantastic we were told that not much rain this season. It was bizarre that it kind of rains from the condensation from the falls creating a rainforest with many exotic plants growing. So you are given a raincoat from one the venders outside the falls in hoping that they will get a sale from you. Sorry fellas if only we could. It certainly was an experience. We also flew over the falls in a short 15min ride to see the enormity of the falls what a sight to behold.
Next day was our little safari in Livingstone Reserve. We had Cedric as our driver and 3 others with us from Cape Town . They certainly had the posh sounding South African accent if I have ever heard one. Cedric was really good with information from a small beetle to the plants.
We saw Giraffe, Impalas, Black Rhino hiding in the bushes he wasn’t coming out and showing his beauty to busy grazing. Also zebras but unfortunately no elephants we saw lot of elephant dung so they had been around. We were a little pushed on time which we weren’t aware of until after our most delicious bush breakfast we were herded back into the jeep very quickly as the Cape Towner’s had a plane to catch. So it was unfortunate that we couldn’t spend more time searching for the elusive elephants. As I am sure the Cape Towners had seen elephants before. They did say they saw one the night before leaving the wedding that they had come up to attend. Lucky bastards. Hopefully later the month we will see a herd of elephants and more animals. I guess to its the luck of the draw if they are around when you are out there in the jeep looking for them. Maybe going in the morning isn’t enough, as the evening would have been better usually the animals are more active after the heat of the day has passed to go to the water holes for water. So I think we should have been booked into both. It’s always in hindsight.
Bonzour, Mauritius
Today we flew to Mauritius a nearly 4 hour flight from Johannesburg. It was quite beautiful flying into a very green and mountainous island. It was just over an hour to drive to the East side of island were we have been booked into one of the Lux Resorts Group. While driving here the landscape is mainly mountains and sugar cane field everywhere. So very lush. We drive through a few villages along the coast road. Its so nice to see the sea and hear its sound after being in land locked countries for nearly a month.
Mauritius is a French speaking country or creole our driver said. BTW at customs the guy wanted to know where we were flying after when we leave here but for the next 8 months. So had to reel them off. Now that was a first.
The resort is nice and everything but to family orientated so many kids everywhere. Just confirming we aren’t resort people. They charge so much for food as there isn’t anywhere outside the gate to go so you are trapped really. One more day and we head to Madagascar.
Salma, Madagascar
Arriving in Madagascar at the airport had its mishaps. No pick-up as pre arranged with Intrepid. So crossed our fingers and got a local driver kind of like a Uber driver to take us to the our hotel for the night. The drive was maybe 45mins which we found out was lucky as the traffic can be unbearably slow.
Tonight we meet the other punters taking the adventure with us, we have
,
Gary & Trish from Tweed heads retired ex Adelaide people living in a magic part of the world. Have travelled extensively. Nice people
Anna & Genny from Ireland work for Google Anna is from Russia and Genny is from the Ukraine happy go lucky couple have travelled a lot too. Nice people.
Also we have Marie from Bathhurst Nice person originally from French Canada but has been living in Australia for 12 years and still has the accent. Lovely person.
Our Guide for the trip is Patrick and driver Jon
After leaving Antananrivo the capital we head to Andasibe National Park first a quick stop at the super market for water as you don’t drink the water here apparently and a few snacks and our lunch. First stop is the Pereyras Nature reserve. MMMM……. Not sure you would call it that but they had quite a few Chameleons in large caged areas. It was good to see them up close and see their beautiful colours. They had other critters too. After that was our first hotel The Grace lodge. We have 2 nights here. Roads in Madagascar are just horrendous pot holes and more pot holes did I mention pot holes. just simply bad conditions. Trucks that have broken down on the side or the middle of the road and under repair some I think have been there for a long time gathering from the camp next to them. Just getting into the Grace Lodge was just a muddy pot holed road over a very dodgy bridge.
Next day we had a walk around a Andasibe National Park for about 3-4 hours with a great guide we did see Lemurs but mainly their bottoms as they are high up in the trees jumping from tree to tree eating the fresh leaves. Nice walk around anyway. Lunch then another super bumpy ride to a Lemur park/island. We did get up close to the these very cute creatures but they are fed bananas, Not their natural food. They are in captivity in a way. Probably was the hi-light of the day.
Next day omg 8 hours in the van/bus over bumpy roads going through villages of people trying to sell their meague produce people walking every where to get the nearest markets. In very filthy clothes and generally with no shoes and babies on their backs or on the younger children backs. People pushing carts stacked with timber probably to make charcoal for their cooking needs. Rickshaws that people are pulling and running with no shoes. The poverty of everyone is so very much in your face constantly. It’s all very heart breaking the sights you see especially the children. You can’t give them anything as you are then creating this thinking that tourist will always be giving you something. Even though deep down you want to give them something. The government is so very bad. Hearing our guide talk about this, the corruption, not caring for their people, poor education and medical. If you are so very lucky to study and go to university and get a degree maybe in teaching or nursing, you are then told there are no jobs and you have to work for free for 2 years and you only might get a job being paid. What the hell……
The service stations are owned by the politicians and put the price up to exorbitant rates.
Education in primary years isn’t compulsory then the kids have to walk for up to 2 hours or more to get there and usually without any food in their bellies. Then be at school until 1pm then walk home again still no food. How can kids learn with no nourishment. Parents struggle just to feed the family on the rice crops and any other food they might grow. Still they keep having more babies. No jobs to be had either.
Tonight our hotel is the Residence Madalief. Which was started by a dutch lady called Remy. She was tourist guide, then met a lady who started caring for orphaned children. She started helping her the best way she could. She started canteens in some locals schools. At 10am each day those children would receive a meal. The attendance at the school went up as the parents knew that their children at least had a good meal once a day. The children’s learning improved as they had a full belly, so simple and rewarding.
The hotel was built so she could raise monies for these canteens. As well as help with medical care for families in need, which there are countless. It was a lovely hotel the dinner was delicious. She doesn’t advertise or want big tourist groups. As there was only 14 rooms. We both had great admiration for Remy and her work.
Another huge day in the van on bumpy roads staring at the landscape of mud brick houses perched on hill sides. Terraced fields .People out manually digging away in the fields planting crops or slashing the rice crop and bashing the rice from the stalks to dry in the sun.
Certainly a hard life.
We did stop at a silk weaving co-op but before we had lunch in a locals house it was really nice.
silk makinglunch stop in the village
Rice, tomatoes, beans, chicken, Zebu (a cow, like a brahma), green beans, carrots also some fresh fruit and coffee. Mind you they grew everything even the coffee beans and it was all organic as far as we could see, It was delicious and our host Philly was very gracious to have us in her house.
We are heading to another national park but the weather is so very, very wet.Ranomafana National Park to see more lemurs.
Well I woke this morning not good may be something I ate who knows. Tony was all good he did the rainforest walk. The rain had stopped. He saw many lemurs trekking around the rainforest.
rainforest walk, while I slept……
Another huge drive kinda getting use to this whole day in the car. But today we are heading to Fianarantsoa to a hotel were the the people that work there are training to come workers in the hospitality industry. Its was a very nice room dinner was unusual to say the least the certainly didn’t get the no meat thing.
Next day we are on a guided walk through rice paddies on our way to a village were lunch will be served in a locals house. It was great walk over looking the valley. Lunch was upstairs in this house on the second floor were all guest are received. The kitchen is upstairs. We had rice, spinach and pork and roasted rice tea and coffee. It was all very tasty and all very clean sitting in a room on small poufs with everything served on the floor. After lunch we are invited upstairs to see the kitchen. So up very small narrow stairs we are led up 3 at a time to a very dark room with black sticky soot ceiling which apparently seals he thatch from the rain. a very small window. In one corner is the charcoal booking area. So very dark and when you look around there was maybe 8 others in the kitchen room sitting on the floor. It was, wow how do they manage to see in here let alone cook the food and the smoke in halation. Not so good for your lungs.
After lunch we had another 20mins walk back to the van. Then another walk around Betsileo area where there are 6 churches perched on hill. Kinda like being in Provence with the villages being on the hill. It was interesting. The usual kids pestering you for money. Tried a yummy watercress fritter from on of the tiny shops. It was tasty.
Another day in the car once again we are heading to Isalo National Park but like everything in Madagascar it’s a long way between stops today is 8 hours in the car, so over this. But half way we stop at this lunch place order lunch an hour before hand go for a little walk with a guide to see a pocket of Lemurs living in the forest. We have seen so many. But really still enjoy watching them and trying to take their photos.
We arrive in Isalo National Park to a nice hotel to our surprise. We are up early next day to do a 6 hour walk with a guide first part was in the more arid area it was a really nice walk. To a spot that had a vista of the valley and these rock formations that look like a small version of the Olgas and some say it look like some parts of the grand canyon. Part B of the walk was down a valley to a black pool of water. It was another really interesting walk. We saw a white lemur but it was the only one, there was none others. Poor lemur plenty of others the ring tail variety. Jumping from branch to branch or running on the ground so curious and not afraid of you. We walked through the very lush area of the valley to the black pool Marie and Anna jumped in. It was very cold but refreshing. We really like this park.
the only boab we saw that was of size
But all things have to come to an end and we are up at 3.30am the next morning for the 275 km drive to Tulear to catch a boat to Anakao. We did manage to stop at a boab tree. Take the photo. We are so disappointed in this whole trip not to go to the avenue of boabs but we are told its a hard place to get to. Its quiet the iconic place of Madagascar other than the lemurs. Them the breaks should have read the itinerary better. Rookie mistake….
We arrive at the harbour about 9.30am to our surprise to a zebu cart ride out to the speed boat. Those poor zebu the way they are treated their short life is hell. But we have no choice but to use this form of transport to get to the boat as the tide is very low. It was an hour ride to our last and final destination the Lalandaka Eco lodge it was a beautiful sight too the bleached timber lodge. Our room was fantastic very simple but very comfortable. No shower though but you given a bucket of water for washing your self with and a bucket for the loo. But hey that is perfectly fine in this beautiful location. Sleeping with door open under a mozzie net is heaven. But heaven only lasted one night, it was supposed to be two but we needed to be back in Tanna to make the next flight the following day. So we had our final dinner with our fellow travellers. They were a great bunch to travel with very easy going, funny and just plain nice. Good bye to our guide Patrick he did an excellent job took his position very seriously didn’t really get the Aussie sense of humour though, extremely knowledgeable though. Jon who drove like a champion slowly, slowly over the many, many,many pot holes. We had one night back in Tanna ( Antananarivo) at a airport hotel then another night back in Johannesburg airport hotel which is our last time back there. Its great hotel close to the terminal, well its in the airport itself. Been through customs so many times now I feel like a local. Just in this leg of the trip we have worked out we have 10 flights coming and going. Don’t you love airport life…….. Nope !!!!
ola, Mozambique
Todays flight is to Mozambique this is our lux time on a white sandy beach in warm water. So we arrive at Vilanculos airport really small but very modern. Guess what no pick-up again ,what the hell. But one of the airport staff said he saw him here. He sorted it for us and the driver returned. Driving through the township was really clean paved roads. The people and housing looks clean. It’s not like Madagascar at all. Plus they speak Portuguese here. In Madagascar it’s French or Malagasy. We are staying at the Bahia Mar Club just for one night in a Seaview room. It’s beautiful the grounds the room the staff such a contrast from Madagascar. The thing is we are only here for one night but there is an upside.
sunrise in Mozambique
We are going by helicopter to Benguerra Island to a resort called Azura. I must say we do love the helicopter ride, what an awesome way to make an entrance. Plus its the only way to get to the island. So seriously we are in heaven. We have 3 nights here eating and drinking wine (yeah, double yeah) its been awhile swimming working on that tan and most importantly washing our stinky clothes boy does our bag stink. Cost a bomb but had to be done. We are Loving it here. The tides are huge too they can go out almost a kilometre. We have our own butler Raul he will do or get anything sorted for you. We are low maintenance so his job is easy. But if you wanted to spend some cash you could go snorkelling, picnics on deserted islands, fishing but we just hanging cause its very pricey and in the old US dollar, bloody Australian exchange rate. Not complaining at all, it’s all awesome.
Aweh Cape Town
Here we are in Cape Town staying at this really nice place called Cloud Nine. Today we are on a mission to get some new clothes. We walked towards the V & A Waterfront. It was about an hour walk. Nice crisp early morning walk too. We got a little lost but this guy who was trying to get work for the day. As there is no unemployment benefits, people would stand at intersections and offer their services for a days work could be anything. I think sometimes they don’t get any work, so no money and then the cycle starts of poverty and struggle. He was really nice to direct us in the right direction. If we had some small rand we would have given some change.
Table Top Mountain Cape Town
We had a great day shopping and Tony got a hair cut which was a scary thought. But turned out well. Ate way too much sushi. We were hanging out for. Had an afternoon drink in the this amazing hotel called the Silo hotel. That is what it is an old silo turned into a hotel. Great views, great GnT’s bloody expensive. But a great experience and that is what every day is one amazing experience after another. Next day we are picked up by a driver Shamie, he drove to The Cape Of Good Hope took the photo drove along an amazing road just out of Cape Town through Camp Bay were all the wealthy people live in their electrified fenced homes over looking the southern ocean. Saw some penguins went to the botanical gardens. Great day out exploring. Cloud Nine hotel was a great location for choices of food and a view of Table Top Mountain. Which believe it or not we didn’t even go up the cable car to the top.
Today we flew to Skukuza airport which is the airport in Kruger National Park for our safari time at Inyati Safari lodge.(means water buffalo) It was about 2 hour flight from Cape Town then an hour drive through Kruger to the Sabi Sand (meaning of Sabi Sand is fearful sand) Private Reserve which is right next to Kruger, on about 65,000 hectares. Apparently this is were you get to see the big 5 on the list of must see wild animals. Inyati Safari lodge is smallish lodge taking up 22 guests. We arrive and greeted by this lovely lady who takes us on the tour of the lodge before seeing our beautiful room. The lodge itself has no fences so the animals can wonder straight on in and graze on the grass. The common areas was beautifully done with comfy couches and views of serenity. Well, until you hear the hippos making this incredible loud noise at the bottom of the garden in the river. Then would also come up on the grass in the evening to graze. We arrive around 2.30pm and afternoon tea is served at 3 pm before all of the guests pile into the jeeps for an afternoon safari of around 3 hours. We are in a jeep with an American family, daughter and boyfriend, dad and his girlfriend. Not the friendliest family it was like we were invading their jeep and family time. Dad had a booming loud American accent, eek….. Our guide was Darren and tracker Nelson who was seated on the bonnet.
We set off full of anticipation and excitement of what we will see. Darren was a very knowledgable man. Nelson had eyes of an eagle spotting the tracks of the leopard it’s what this area is really known for. We spot lion male who was very old and skinny. He was apparently 14 years old. His life as the head of the pack was coming to an end as he couldn’t no longer fight the younger males for the mating of the females. He also had a younger cousin who was of similar age that was a grandpa too. So first outing we saw elephants, giraffe, zebra, water buffalo, and the leopard. It was crazy how Darren would go off the road and just drive straight through the bush in the Land Rover, what a machine. There was some super prickly acacia bushes that had spines like needles. We stop for a sun downer GnT’s and a snack which was all packed in the back with ice and lemon. So decadent love this type of safari.We watched the sky changed to a beautiful crimson colours and just listening to the sounds of the bush, for once the American dad kept quiet. (eye rolling emoji insert here) . We piled back in, blankets wrapped around us and search for more animals on our way back to the lodge and that is when we came across the male lion with it’s booming growl was very impressive. Back by 6.30 in time for a pre-dinner vino at the bar. Dinner is served at 7.30pm. The food is plenty and delicious with a couple of glasses of red and guess what, we have to sit with booming dad voice for our dinner, yippee …….. We could never walk back to the room on our own we had to have staff member with us just in case an animal is lurking in the darkness and was still hungry. hahaaaa….
Each morning is the knock on the door at 5.30am to be in the common area for a pre breakfast pastry and coffee. Boy is it cold. The safari vehicle is open air. Jump on board by 6.30am. But luckily they give us hot water bottle to hug like a koala. So I would snuggle up to Tony we would set off to look for what ever we might come across. We came across a lot today. Wild dogs, hyenas, leopards, giraffe, hippopotamus, rhino with baby, impalas, water bucks, wildebeests and Woghorts as well. A pride of lions that had 3 cubs we followed them down to river and watched as they drank and lazed in the sun they all had just eaten a kill and their bellies were really big and round and just about touching the ground. So now they will sleep and conserve the energy until the next feeding session. Sleeping up to 20 hours a day. Saw lots of fascinating birds too. Inyati has 4 safari vehicles out at one time compared to other lodges around the area. They all spoke with two way radio’s to one another letting each other know what they have seen and found. When we arrived at the pride of lions there was 3 other vehicles there from different lodges. So all take in turns pole position To get the photo shot.. Then let the next vehicle have a viewing time. It was all very civilised. No matter how much you may have paid to stay at a certain lodge and there are some very expensive lodges near where we stayed. Sir Richard Branson Lodge for example you might have to sell your house to stay there a few nights, bloody expensive. The morning safari would end by about 10.30am.
One morning brunch was set up under the trees. You are so ravenous too by then.. The rest of the day you can do as little or as much as you want until afternoon tea time and the off we go again. BTW afternoon tea was decadent too. Never went hungry or wanting more.
It’s winter time, well what they call winter the day time temp about 25 degrees night time maybe 15 degrees. Really nice weather. But there has been a drought for the past 4 years. Not any where near enough rain. The poor animals will migrate else were for water and fresh feed.
American family departed, yeah (that is mean but, wow intense). We did a walking safari with Darren so with a gun over his shoulder that is loaded for inevitable encounter with a local animals, we go tracking for about an hour towards the lodge. He showed us different plants for different purposes. Looked and found tracks from elephants, giraffe’s and leopards. We did see giraffes, it was really great thing to do. Loved it.
Last day we get put on to another vehicle of another guide Gabriel he is only 23 but a very knowledgable young man. Different style of course with another tracker Cliff. We did track down a male leopard and a pride of lions this afternoon and not much else, it’s all luck really. But our final safari before we depart was an amazing adventure. This safari was the best in my books. We tracked down a herd of elephants maybe 10-20. We drove through the bush and there they were. We parked and they just all walked past with babies protected by the mothers and the herd. They seemed to not care what so ever that we were there. We are not a threat to them I guess. After that amazing moment Gabriel was given the location of a female young leopard. We tracked it down and followed it. Same again didn’t care two hoots that we were right on her tail. She stopped for rest in the shade then spied a large tree and ran up it. She was so beautiful sitting up there looking over the grasslands for some tasty impala. It was a great note to finish off our safari adventure.
We both had the best time here.It was definitely the hi-light of the trip. We have been in Africa for 34 days travelling all over. Experiences were all so different . Will we ever come back and go to another region I am not sure. Many guests we spoke to have been many times before, go to different areas and different terrains.
It time to fly to the next destination Cairo, Jordan and Israel for the next 23 days.
After leaving the beautiful Maldives and saying goodbye to the fabulous people that were part of our lives for a very short time. But it was time to head to Nepal which has been on the radar as a place to visit for many years.
We flew Air India but were very surprised that there was no tv’s in the seats and no drinks being served. We did get some yummy mango lassi though. A tasty curry as well. Had an overnight in New Delhi airport but silly me made a mistake with the booking and had us in the domestic airport, wrong hotel? But lucky there was a room at the inn. It took us over an hour to get off the plane be issued with new tickets and get through security. Being a female is so much quicker to get though security. Not so quick for the males it was nearly midnight before we found the wrong hotel but the right one for our needs. It was only a short 90min flight to Nepal the next morning too.
Flying into Nepal looking out the window you could see the Himalaya in the distance, what a beautiful sight. Going through immigration was another interesting experience. After collecting bags was an organised chaos in the bag collection area. People and bags everywhere.
We are picked up taken into the Thamel district in Kathmandu.Very much the tourist area. Then had a meeting with Ace Himalaya. Just run through our program for the next 20 days and get our Tibet visa in progress.
Our first lunch was at a restaurant just down the street called Thamel House. Up a few flights of stairs to a room and we are the only customers. Sitting on the floor now that tests the cross legged sitting position. It was a set menu vegetarian Thali.
OMG…… it was so good, from the little soup first to some crunchy potatoes with Nepali spices to momo’s then Thali plate of paneer curry , Dahl, veg curry. Spinach, rice and pickles then a yogurt desert so yummy for a bout $12 per head, oh yeah, we had some rice wine poured into these tiny little vessels, very potent . We went back and had a nap for a few hours after that. We have never done that before. That night we found a Japanese restaurant a few doors down from the hotel. Great tempera and rice and a Gorka beer.
Next day we met our guide Kedar and driver Obi for the next couple of days . Driving around Kathmandu is a new experience the roads are of poor quality and the dust ,oh my god, the dust.
First stop was the Monkey Temple (Swoyambhunath stupa). So many monkey’s running around, beautiful sight too with the prayer flags flapping in the wind.
Next was a visit to Kathmandu Durbar Square, buildings are from the 12th & 18th Centuries. To see so many beautiful temples that are a fraction of their beauty left after the 2015 earthquake. Which happen to have been in April.. . They are trying to rebuild with support from Japan, China. In the Kathmandu Durbar Square is the Kamari (meaning princess) Ghur Palace. This is an unusual story of the living goddess of Nepal. She is selected from the Shakya caste. At the age of 3 she has to have certain qualities
A neck like a conch shell, a body like a banyan tree, eyelashes like a cow, thighs like a deer, chest like a lion and voice soft and clear as a duck.
She is taken from her parents after certain rituals have been performed to show she is the chosen one. Her parents can only see her on formal occasions. She is only allowed outside the palace 13 times a year and feet are not touch the ground. Also many believe that if they see her pass by the window in the court yard of the palace you have been blessed. Back many years ago she wasn’t allowed to be educated but now things have changed she is educated and access to the internet for education and social awareness. As from her first menstruation she is no longer a Kamari Or if she bleeds cuts her finger. They believe the Teleju spirit will leave the goddess body. That is a very short version of the story but fascinating in every respect.
We also heard another story how Jimmy Hendricks, John Lennon and Bob Marley use to sit in the Pagodas that isn’t there now and smoke hash with the local holy men. There is also a street called hippy street where before 1973 it was the street for back packing stoners. Before it became illegal. Hey, they were the day’s…….
We also went to Patan Durbar Square created around the ‘17th’ century another beautiful square of an amazing pagodas and temples also a former royal palace. Not so much earth quake damage to this Durbar. The beautiful building have amazing timber windows with intricate carved fret work was all in very good condition.
We had lunch at a roof top restaurant over looking the local buildings. The whole day has been very dusty many people walk around with face masks on.
Last stop of the day was a walk around a village where rice and vegetables are grown in terraced gardens. Today was a festival of celebration of the house I think, I gathered that from our guide lots of drumming and symbols being used going around house to house.
Most of the houses are quite tall and very narrow , they look like they are one room wide.
Back tonight to the Japanese restaurant so cheap for udon noodles and tempura and a beer.
Woke this morning to thunder and lightning and rain and cold. It has been ages since we have had to put on something warm.
First stop very early this morning was an ancient temple Changunarayan temple was founded 323 AD a world heritage site dedicated to the hindu god Vishnu. The pagodas are just beautiful structures to look at, with brass doors and all the amazing timber fret work.
We also went to Bungmati village founded in the ‘7th’ century the earth quake hit hard here some of the pagodas and temples but not the palace of 50 windows was in perfect condition. Many temples and pagodas surrounded this palace which are no longer occupied.
Next stop was the top of the Holly Ganges River to where cremations are performed . We have seen cremations before in Agra next to the Taj Mahal but only really from a distance. Today a cremation was being performed which can take up 3-4 hours. Next to them a person had passed away and that person was lying warped in cloth after rituals have been performed ready for the cremation to be performed on the steps. I am not shocked by this, its natural part of the circle of life, we eventually die. It’s just the way different cultures deal with the passing of life.
What we have been told that with the many festivals that happen in Nepal scarifies are a common occurrence buffalo and goats are a common ritual animal. When we where leaving the Bungmati village a sacrifice of a goat was happening that is something I can’t watch. Anything to do with animals just can’t go there.
Last stop today was the second largest stupa in the world. We have seen the largest in Myanmar the Shwedagon Pagoda that is amazing . Today was very large but not as impressive as the Shwedagon one but had a lovely vibe. Went into a monastery and received a blessing from a monk. I hope they wished me well on my travels. Two of the monasteries had huge prayer wheels. Had lunch on another roof top restaurant with fabulous views of the stupa
It has been a cold day but such an interesting last 2 days of visiting Kathmandu. Out on the street so many shops selling mountaineering clothes and accessories for all the trekkers and Cashmere rugs and scarves. All so beautiful and at a great price but can’t buy, so sad. We did buy a Mandala which was painted by a master, apparently took him 3 months working 6 hours a day with meditation. Beautiful art work Tony and I just loved it so its in the bag for the next 9 months.
Tomorrow we driving to Pokhara a 7 hour drive .
Driving to Pokhara, well just getting out to Pokhara was just radical. It had been raining the night before and driver Obi had to negotiate pot holes, mud, buses that decided their side of the road was to muddy and just took it upon them selves to drive on the other side of the road towards us and the other cars streaming forward just crazy driving but we had faith in Obi and tour guide Yam not sure why Yam was with us but he was the size of a Yam maybe that is why he was named Yam. After getting through squelching mud and pot holes and people and traffic from every direction we are up on, a narrow road with busses fully laden with people spilling out from the doors trucks over loaded and spirting out diesel fumes, gross. It was time to hang on for dear life white knuckles. It was really putting your life in the hands of Obi but we felt that he had driven this road a few times before. His skill was right up there. Driving up right behind buses or trucks peaking out just a bit then deciding it was time to drop it back a gear and just gun it in front of the next truck. Oh, shit this is not going well but I am here writing this, so we survived. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant had a pretty good Thali style lunch it was tasty, cost nothing. But the best thing was a little hut in front of the restaurant that had a coffee machine. Heaven….Espresso times 2 and a cookie thanks very much. Fully caffeine up and ready for the next 3 more hours of rally driving. While we were waiting for Obi and Yam to do their thing we wondered around and wouldn’t you know it. I spotted a dope plant just growing on the side of river. Tony said he seen a matured plant with heads growing on the side of the road. I guess it’s just a weed here, hahaaaa…. We made it into Pokhara said goodbye to Yam and Obi for today and went out walking Pokhara, it’s situated on a lake not actually a lake but a man made dam for the town water. Apparently there is the same amount of people in Nepal as there is in New Delhi alone. Thats 25 million hang on isn’t that the population of all of Australia, Crazy.
We had nice little walk around found somewhere for dinner the choice is huge. Next morning we woke to clear blue skies and we could see the Himalaya Mountains and a sacred mountain called Fish Tail Mountain, it was certainly a fabulous surprise as we came in yesterday couldn’t see a thing, low-cloud. So many trekkers in Pokhara it is the gate way to the Annapurna Mountain range. When you look towards the mountain range lots of paragliding going on, swirling in the sky catching the thermals, a beautiful sight. Tomorrow we have a guide Martine taking us to a few spots. She was a lovely lady very professional guide had lots of good information but what we saw was mmmmm……. Nothing to write about here on this page. A stupa, a swing bridge built in the 50’s, a cave that was not good. A refugee camp now that was weird. Those people in the camp are stuck there for ever will never be granted citizenship. But get all the health care and schooling for the children and they made rugs which was a personnel thing in taste. Not that nice but kept the ladies busy.
We decided after walking past a place well several places were you can book in for paragliding we should try this, looks like to much fun. So we did, through the hotel and it way cheaper doing it that way. We were picked up at 9.15am and taken to the office for some signing your life away forms just in case thing went terribly wrong. That puts the nervous tension up a little. There are 6 of us, Mr & Mrs young couple with tattoos and Mr & Mrs Thailand and us. We had to wait for a while because it was raining in the morning and the cloud was low. I think we waited maybe an hour. Then all systems are go. Piled into the bus us 6 plus 6 more pilots and gear. Up we drive to Sarangkot a launching area. We thought we where going to slide off the edge of the road it was so slippery the bus was sliding sideways. White knuckles again. Pretty scary and we haven’t even jumped off the cliff yet. With a giant parachute.
We made to the launch area. Waited until the wind turned to be blowing into out faces, not long maybe 20mins. We are all assigned a pilot, I got Nhil and guess what, I am first, dammit…
So all strapped in, parachute flayed out, he just says run and run hard to edge. Yeah, great idea in theory but in practice, then we lifted off what a beautiful feeling couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. The up-daft, the silence and the view over Pokhara was fabulous. Swirling around like a large bird catching the thermals. Just before landing, Nhil says do you want to do acrobatics? Well, why not, so we swing from side to side or go around in a circle the inertia was fantastic. Loved it, what a thrill and landed so softly. So up there around 30mins felt like 10. Could have gone and done it all over again, it was so much fun.
Tony loved it too but he got a false start running off the launch area he said he was running forward as hard as he could towards the edge of the cliff and for some reason the parachute didn’t catch the wind. He was told to stop just before the edge. Holy crap, that would have sent the heebie jeebies up my spine. But no, Tony took it in his stride and had a fantastic flight, eventually. This was so much fun, what an amazing morning. After that we met Martine for hike down from the Stupa which was about 1000 steps to the lake then on a tiny boat across the lake and we are done. Pokhara was great. We thought about trekking. You never know we might come back.
Tomorrow we are heading to Chitwan National Park to see wildlife I hope we see some.
After leaving Pokhara we drove along a deep ravine road with towering mountains either side with a brown fast flowing river where in some places the river bed is mined for its river stones. Or for materials to make cement, but it was very hairy narrow road. But once again Obi had the skills and we arrived in Chitwan in one piece. Obi and Yam were driving back to Kathmandu. So we said goodbye to them. We are here for 2 nights. First night we walked with a guide from the hotel to the river bank through the local village to see sunset and also if we spot some wild life. We did see a few marsh crocodiles and some deer and monkeys . It was pleasant and a nice sunset before dinner was had. Which was unusual but had no choice it was part of the package?
Next day we are up early to be taken in wooden canoe boats down the river to see if we can spot some crocodiles a few were seen but small then a walk through the forest to apparently see wildlife. I am no tracker of wild life but if there is fresh poo on the ground the animals have been around, me thinking. Nothing was seen, such a farce really. Then a walk into the Elephant Breeding Centre. OMG… Those poor elephants tied up with chains to one leg, there Mahmoot no where to be seen. Baby elephants seem to be able to roam free. But the poor mothers rocking back and forth all she wanted to do was gather up her baby and keep her safe next to her. It was so cruel. We really didn’t want to be here. Then we walked a little further around to get out of this place more female elephants are tied up with chains but both of their front feet. They couldn’t even more. What is this place, why is this happening? Why aren’t they left to be free in the national park with the rhino? Is this tourism? I am sure most of the people that come to this place are in disgust of the treatment of these beautiful creatures. But what can you do? Not come, then community suffer and it goes down the line employment on many levels . Someone WWF should come and see what they sponsor.
In the afternoon we crossed the river again in wooden canoes to be on the back of jeeps to spot some free roaming animals it was so hot. We did spot a rhino, sloth bear and monkeys they also had this hideous crocodile breeding place. Our guide was trying to pretend he saw free roaming elephants, tigers he was a good actor I must say.
Next day we opted to fly back to Kathmandu than the 7 hours winding bumpy hairy ride.
We flew to Tibet for 3 days mainly around Lhasa. It’s a 90min fight with China Air. It was a bumpy flight over the Himalayan Mountains, very scenic though. We have never been to china before. So coming here is an experience like nothing else we have seen before. We have a ride to Lhasa about an hour from the airport. The landscape is very barren and mountainous grey brown earth, very rocky. Some of the peaks still have snow on them. It’s just the beginning of spring and there is some blossom on trees, what trees there are. The fields have no crops. Just bare earth. As I guess winter has just finished the snow has melted.
Padma, our guide seems well informed in the Tibetan culture he has been a guide since 1997 when most tourists where foreigners but now he said that there are so many Chinese now that come to visit . We had a look around Monasteries with so many statues of buddha and Dali Lamas of past, kings and princess. Statues for worshipping for good health or for good business so many other reasons. Yak melted butter was poured into large candle containers as part of the worship too I wish I could remember all that was said. We wished we could have taken photos inside of the Deprung Monastery as they are something to behold with ancient buddhas and hand painted ceilings and colour everywhere. The teaching rooms or study areas for the monks were something to behold too. On the street you have a lot of the Tibetan people dressed in national dress men and women. Some with most elaborate head dresses on. With turquoise and coral beads. Most people seem to carry the prayer beads. We noticed and were told that when you are older you come to a Jokhang Temple the most scared of monasteries in the Barkor area and you circle it clockwise with your pray wheel and pray beads and say a certain mantra and keep going around for up to 2 months or as long as you can. So you pass into the next life with good karma and you go to a good place after death. Now that is devotion. We walked with the these people today to see the exact path they were taking. We certainly got some looks. But very friendly with big smiles. Food has been interesting Yak is on the menu. Yak cheese, Yak curry, Yak, Yak……. We have been having dinner at the same place Dufy Restaurant the food is pretty good sort of a mixture of Chinese and Tibetan and little western food, like pasta. The staff were lovely.
We haven’t felt any ill effects from the high altitude. Padma just said drink boiled water. So warm water we did, or green tea. Had a Lhasa beer tonight not to bad. The air is very dry.
Lined up today to see the Potala Palace sits pride of place in Lhasa on top of a hill. It was built in the ‘7th’ century. But reconstructed in the ’17th’ century by the 5th Dalai Lama. It’s 13 stories high with 999 rooms. So many people coming to see the inside. So many stairs to climb outside and inside. To see the rooms with the stupas built for past Dalai Lamas was something to see. The biggest being for the 5th Dalai Lama it was 7 m tall with 3000 kg of gold with precious gems all over it. Inside the Potala, you just wonder how it was constructed. We went through many rooms where the Dalai would sit for meditation or meeting with monks and so forth. No photos allowed. So all committed to memory. The weird thing was you get a ticket and you are only allowed 15mins inside the White Palace and Red Palace so it was like speed touring which suits us fine. Every room you went in was filled with scripts to the ceiling and there would be at least 2 or 3 monks reading aloud scripts. They never looked up or smiled as people would file past and place money on the statue they wished to worship. There was so much money in bags and boxes tucked into little places. There was Money just every where. That was in all the monasteries. We also did a quick visit to Sera Monastery to see monks debating it was really strange. It was one monk sitting and the other was giving him a lecture. Many monks were doing this and we were allowed to take pictures. As we were filing through to see more buddhas we all lined up around this place that you get a blessing you had to bend down and the monk would slap your ass. I was just laughing and this monk was laughing too. Then he wanted me to do this head down into this place and got my ass smacked. Tony skipped that. That was the first time that I got a smile out of monk. They seem all so serious and devoted to what they are doing they don’t look up.
Potala Palace
We also went to a nunnery small but we witnessed the nuns praying nearly like singing. It was a beautiful sound. Got a smile out of them. Our guide left us. To find our way back through narrow streets that all look the same. But we found someone that spoke a little English and we were going in the right general direction, thank goodness.
We have noticed a huge military presence and police presence everywhere. Swat cars, fully armed cars. Tanks driving down the street today. Riot police all fully armed. Doesn’t make me feel safe but intimidated more. Or is this how China shows strength with all this. Don’t take a photo or you will be a whole lot of trouble, we were told.
I think we are done with Monasteries for long time now, wait we are going to Bhutan in the next couple of days then we are totally done with Monasteries.
Back to Kathmandu tomorrow.
Back to the airport to fly to Bhutan. Boarded the plane and wouldn’t you know it we sitting next to an Aussie 5 degrees of seperation here. His name was Tyson and his beautiful wife Natasha and they were travelling with 3 children Baby O middle O big sister O. All their names started with O but I can’t quite remember them. Beautiful kids too and well travelled. Tyson kept us laughing the whole 90mins that fabulous Aussie sense of humour that he certainly hasn’t lost from living in London, now Milan with his family. He is a photographer and film maker. Took some awesome shots out of the window of Mt Everest it was very clear with blue skies.
Coming into the airport in Bhutan was something else turning left then right going through the mountains to the valley were the airport is Disembarking was something else too. The views to the mountains the airport that was so decorative too.
Met our guide for the next six days UT dressed in national costume and our driver Tashi as well, everyone was dressed in the same outfit. It was quite something. We are spending the next 3 nights in Thimpbu the capital of Bhutan about an hour drive along a windy road. The population of the whole Bhutan is only 700,000 people and the only income for the country is hydro electricity and tourism. The people receive free education and health care. T Bhutan also has an index called GNH (Gross National Happiness) which is Equitable and sustainable and social economical development. Preservation and promotion of the cultural, spiritual heritage. Conservation of the environment and good governance. It was so interesting the valleys the houses that looked all the same or even the apartment buildings that were only 6 stories high as that is all that is allowed. UT took us straight away to this enormous statue of Buddha on a hill facing east 54m tall made of solid bronze and gold surrounded by 36 angels all are holding a gift, it was something to see. They started to build in 2006 and finished in 2015 costing a $100m sponsored by a Singaporean. Housing 250,000 small gold buddhas that people donate . It was said that two ancient prophecies from the 8th & 12th centuries stated that a large Buddha would be built in the region to bless the world with peace and happiness .
We also have seen the past day is archery, the national sport. Now that is some skill. A team 9-11 with 2 arrows each shoot a distance of 150m to a really small target. Occasionally it would hit the target and the opposing team would do this little dance and sing when the other team hit the target. I think it was about intimidation to each team. Also darts and beer not what we think of as darts and beer the same sort of game as archery but with darts and a smaller target. Sometimes they would stand in front of the target to put the opposite team off. Scary stuff.
Also we have noticed a lot of phallus handicrafts stores as well. They are hanging off the houses too. Apparently it is token you hang out to give the house a blessing for children to be born into the house and good luck.
We also have visited the fort which you are only allowed in for 30 mins after 5.30pm so many tourists line up. After the King has left the office and walked back to his palace we are allowed to have look in the courtyard area as well as the temple. No photos as usual but I did get a sneaky door way photo of the temple.
We also drove through the mountains to another Fort which is more impressive than the one in Thimpbu in Punakha another district. It is said that it is surrounded by a male and female river and sits right in the middle. It was very impressive the decoration of the building and its presence. These fortresses are used for administration as well as a monastery housing, teaching many monks. Also right next door is another palace for the king just one story like the one in Thimpbu so not over the top. He is the 5th king has been since 2008 from the age 28. Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck. He is from a long line of Wangchuks
We moved to the town of Paro about an hour from Thimpbu to a lovely hotel very traditional, very cosy. But first we are taken to a local house for lunch. Sitting on the floor first we are offered tea and biscuits. Then lunch is served we had potatoes and greens and asparagus as its asparagus season, red rice and a meat dish, which was made from dried beef and a very fatty pork. Tony said it was different and chilli. It was the best food we have had since being in Bhutan. After lunch we offered the local rice wine and actually it was quite good. Kind of tasted like sake. Tomorrow we hike to The Tigers Nest.
Up and early to be at the base at 8am for the hike up to Tiger Nest Monastery. Many tourist as our selves are attempting or doing the whole walk. I must say it was a hard walk the path aren’t exactly perfect but manageable. As well as ponies walking the lazy ones up to the cafe which has a wonderful view of the Monastery. Poor ponies. We did the up in 2 hours that’s 5.3 km up and 7,743 steps up or 89 floors. A bit of huffing and puffing going on but a beautiful walk. Especially when you get those glimpses of the Monastery just beautiful. Seeing the Monastery up close and the small meditation building wedged in the rocks The lions Cave. You can’t but wonder how did they build these buildings. Carrying it all up a piece at a time. Which UT told us that the Monastery burnt down in 1996 and one of the small temples survived. As there are 10 of them in the monastery .It was all rebuilt and finished by 2003 and as child he carried up a rock to monastery himself when the rebuild was going on. So he has this wonderful connection. Which we could see. So as usual no photos of the internals but it was pretty much the same as all the temples we have seen. We started our decent and it started too hail for a bit. Quite cold. So 2 hours back down . The knees were feeling it now.
So all up 15,487 Steps up. Which equals to walking up 178 floors. 10.6kms there and back. Pat on the back for us.
We have loved visiting all three counties no particular country had a stand out feature they all had their own special qualities and we admire them all. Will we come back to this area, I am not sure. Maybe a trek, we have talked about it. We will see.
Tomorrow we say goodbye and time for another adventure to begin in South Africa. Ticking off so many things on that bucket list. It has been amazing adventure so far. We have loved everyday, as everyday is a new adventure not two days are the same. So many memories on film and in our memory.
tonyandsharon 